The Journals of Herman Melville

  • Journal Of a Voyage from New York to London 1849-50
  • Memorandum of stay in Liverpool 1856
  • Journal 1860

    Journal Of a Voyage from New York to London 1849

    Thursday Oct 11th After a detention of three or four days, owing to wind & weather, with the rest of the passengers I went on board the tug-boat Goliath about 12 1/2 P.M. during a cold violent storm from the West. The "Southampton" (a regular London liner) lay in the North river. We transfered ourselves aboard with some confusion, hove up our anchor, & were off. Our pilot, a large, beefy looking fellow resembled an oyster-man more than a sailor. We got outside the "Narrows" about 2 O'clock; shortly after, the "tug" left us & the Pilot. At half past 5. PM, saw the last of the land, with our yards square, & in half a gale. As the ship dashed on, under double-reefed topsails, I walked the deck, thinking of what they might be doing at home, & of the last familiar faces I saw on the wharf--Allan was there, & George Duyckinck, and a Mr McCurdy, a rich merchant of New York, who had seemed somewhat interested in the prospect of his son (a sickly youth of twenty bound for the grand tour) being my roommate. But to my great delight, the promise that the Captain had given me at an early day, he now made good; & I find my self in the undevided occupancy of a large state-room. It is as big almost as my own room at home; it has a spacious birth, a large wash-stand, a sofa, glass &c &c. I am the only person on board who is thus honored with a room to himself. I have plenty of light, & a little thick glass window in the side, which in fine weather I may open to the air. I have looked out upon the sea from it, often, tho not yet 24 hours on board.

    Friday Oct 12th Walked the deck last night till about eight o'clock; then made up a whist party & played till one of the number had to visit his room from sickness. Retired early & had a sound sleep. Was up betimes, & aloft, to recall the old emotions of being at the mast-head. Found that the ocean looked the same as ever. Have tried to read, but found it hard work. However, there are some very plasant passengers on board, with whom to converse. Chief among these is a Mr Adler, a German scholar, to whom Duyckinck introduced me. He is author of a formidable lexicon, (German & English), in compiling which he almost ruined his health. He was almost crazy, he tells me, for a time. He is full of the German metaphysics, & discourses of Kant, Swedenborg &c. He has been my principal companion thus far. There is also a Mr Taylor among the passengers, cousin to James Bayard Taylor the pedestrian traveller. He is full of fun--or rather was full of it.--Just at this moment I hear his mysterious noises from the state-room next to mine. Poor fellow! he is sea-sick. As yet there have been but few thus troubled, owing to pleasant weather. There is a Scotch artist on board, a painter, with a most unpoetical looking only child, a young-one all cheeks & forhead, the former preponderating. Young McCurdy I find to be a lisping youth of genteel capacity, but quite disposed to be sociable. We have several Frenchmen & Englishmen. One of the latter has been hunting, & carries over with him two glorious pairs of antlers (moose) as trophies of his prowess in the woods of Maine. We have also, a middleaged English woman, who sturdily walks the deck, & prides herself upon her sea-legs, & being an old tar.

    Saturday Oct 13 Last evening was very pleasant. Walked the deck with the German, Mr Adler till a late hour, talking of "Fixed Fate, Free-will, foreknowledge absolute" &c. His philosophy is Colredegian: he accepts the Scriptures as divine, & yet leaves himself free to inquire into Nature. He does not take it, that the Bible is absolutely infallible, & that anything opposed to it in Science must be wrong. He beleives that there are things out of God and independant of him, --things that would have existed were there no God:--such as that two & two make four; for it is not that God so decrees mathematically, but that in the very nature of things, the fact is thus. --Rose early this morning, opened my bull's eye window, & looked out to the East. The sun was just rising, the horizon was red;--a familiar sight to me, reminding me of old times. Before breakfast went up to the mast-head, by way of gymnastics. About 10 o'clock A. M. the wind rose, the rain fell, & the deck looked dismally enough. By dinner time, it blew half a gale, & the passengers mostly retired to their rooms, sea sick. After dinner, the rain ceased, but it still blew stiffly, & we were slowly forging along under close-reefed topsails--mainsail furled. I was walking the deck, when I perceived one of the steerage passengers looking over the side; I looked too, & saw a man in the water, his head completely lifted above the waves, --about twelve feet from the ship, right abreast the gangway. For an instant, I thought I was dreaming; for no one else seemed to see what I did. Next moment, I shouted "Man overboard!" & turned to go aft. The Captain ran forward, greatly confused. I dropped overboard the tackle-fall of the quarter-boat, & swung it towards the man, who was now drifting close to the ship. He did not get hold of it, & I got over the side, within a foot or two of the sea, & again swung the rope towards him. He now got hold of it. By this time, a crowd of people --sailors & others--were clustering about the bulwarks; but none seemed very anxious to save him. They warned me however, not to fall overboard. After holding on to the rope, about a quarter of a minute the man let go of it, & drifted astern under the mizzen chains. Four or five of the seamen jumped over into the chains & swung him more ropes. But his conduct was unaccountable; he could have saved himself, had he been so minded. I was struck by the expression of his face in the water. It was merry. At last he drifted off under the ship's counter, & all hands cried "He's gone!" Running to the taffrail, we saw him again, floating off--saw a few bubbles, & never saw him again. No boat was lowered, no sail was shortened, hardly any noise was made. The man drowned like a bullock. It afterwards turned out, that he was crazy, & had jumped overboard. He had declared he would do so several times; & just before he did jump, he had tried to get possession of his child, in order to jump into the sea, with the child in his arms. His wife was miserably sick in her berth. The Captain said that this was the fourth or fifth instance he had known of people jumping overboard. He told a story of a man who did so, with his wife on deck at the time. As they were trying to save him, the wife said it was no use; & when he was drowned, she said "there were plenty more men to be had." Amiable creature!--By night, it blew a terrific gale, & we hove to. Miserable time! nearly every one sick, & the ship rolling, & pitching in an amazing manner. About midnight, I rose & went on deck. It was blowing horribly--pitch dark, & raining. The Captain was in the cuddy, & directed my attention "to those fellows" as he called them,--meaning several "Corposant balls" on the yard arms & mast heads. They were the first I had ever seen, & resembled large, dim stars in the sky.

    Sunday Oct 14 A regular blue devel day. A gale of wind, & every one sick. Saloons deserted, & all sorts of nausea noise heard from the state-rooms. Taylor, MCCurdy, & Adler all in their berths--& I alone am left to tell the tale of their misery. Read a little in Mrs Kirkland's European tour. Like it. She is a spirited, sensible, fine woman. Managed to get thro' the day somehow, by reading & walking the deck, tho' the last was almost as much as my neck was worth. I forgot to say that shortly after the loss of the crazy man (a Dutchman by the way) some of the steerage passengers came aft & told the Captain that there was another crazy man, an Englishman in the steerage. This morning, coming on deck, I saw a man leaning against the bulwarks, whom I immediately took for a steerage passenger. He stopped me, & told me to look off & see the steamers. So I looked for about five minutes,--straining my eyes very hard, but saw nothing. --I asked the 2d Mate whether he could see the steamers, when he told me that my informant was the crazy Englishman. All the morning this poor fellow was on deck, crying out at steamers, boats, &c &c. I thought that his mad feelings found something congenial in the riot of the raging sea. In the evening, he forced his way into the dining saloon, & struck the Steward, who knocked him down, & dragged him forward. We have made no progress for the last 36 hours; wind ahead, from the Eastward. The crazy man turns out to be afflicted with delirium tremens, consequent upon keeping drunk for the last two months. He is very earnest in his enquiries after a certain Dr Dobbs. Saw a lady with a copy of "Omoo" in her hand two days ago. Now & then she would look up at me, as if comparing notes. She turns out to be the wife of a young Scotchman, an artist, going out to Scotland to sketch scenes for his patrons in Albany, including Dr Armsby. He introduced himself to me by mentioning the name of Mr Twitchell who painted my portrait gratis. He is a very unpretending young man, & looks more like a tailor than an artist. But appearances are &c.

    Monday Oct 15 The gale has gone down, & we have fine weather. By noon the passengers were pretty nearly all on deck, convalescent. They seem to regard me as a hero, proof against wind & weather. My occasional feats in the rigging are regarded as a species of tight-rope dancing. Poor Adler, however, is hardly himself again. He is an exceedingly amiable man, & a fine scholar whose society is improving in a high degree. This afternoon Dr Taylor & I sketched a plan for going down the Danube from Vienna to Constantinople; thence to Athens in the steamer; to Beyroot & Jerusalem--Alexandia & the Pyramids. From what I learn, I have no doubt this can be done at a comparitivly trifling expence. Taylor has had a good deal of experience in cheap European travel, & from his knowledge of German is well fitted for a travelling companion thro Austria & Turkey. I am full (just now) of this glorious Eastern jaunt. Think of it!--Jerusalem & the Pyramids--Constantinople, the Egean, & old Athens! The wind is not fair yet, & there is much growling consequently. Drank a small bottle of London Stout to day for dinner, & think it did me good. I wonder how much they charge for it? I must find out; & not go thro' the sad experience that "Powell" did (as he says)

    Tuesday Oct 16 Beautiful weather, but wind against us. Passengers all better, & quite lively; excepting young MCCurdy with a touch of the ague, and a lady, who seems quite ill. Read little or nothing, but lounged about. The sea has produced a temporary effect upon me, which makes me for the time incapable of any thing but vegetating. What's little Barney about? Where's Orianna?

    Wednesday Oct 17 Fine weather, quite warm & sunny. The decks lively, the ladies lively, the Captain lively, & the ship now going her course. Spent a good part of the day aloft with Adler, in conversation. In the evening had a sort of concert. An Irish lady, an opera singer they say, leading off with a guitar & her voice.

    Thursday Oct 18 Delightful day, & the ship getting on famously. Spent the entire morning in the main-top with Adler & Dr Taylor, discussing our plans for the grand circuit of Europe & the East. Taylor, however, has communicated to me a circumstance, that may prevent him from accompanying us--something of a pecuniary nature. He reckons our expenses at $400.

    Friday Oct 19 No events; spent the morning in lounging & reading; and after a hand at cards, retired.

    Saturday Oct 20 Newfoundland weather--foggy, rainy &c. Read account of Venice in Murray. Cleared up in the afternoon--passengers played shuffle-board on the quarter-deck. For the first time promenaded with some of the ladies--a Mrs of Monmouthshire, England, & a Miss Wilbur (I think) of New York. The former is flat: the latter is of a marriagable age, keeps a diary & talks about "winning souls to Christ."--In the evening for the first time went into the Ladies' Saloon, & heard Mrs Gould the opera lady sing. There was quite a party--the saloon is guilt & brilliant, & as the ship was going on quietly, it seemed as if I were ashore in a little parlor or cabinet.--Where's Orianna? How's little Barney?--Read a chapter in Pickwick & retired pretty early. Towards morning was annoyed by a crying baby adjoining.

    Sunday Oct 21 Rainy--near the Banks. Can not remember what happened to day. It came to an end somehow. Monday Oct 22 Clear & cold; wind not favorable. I forgot to mention, that last night about 9 1/2 P.M. Adler & Taylor came into my room, & it was proposed to have whiskey punches, which we did have, accordingly. Adler drank about three table spoons full--Taylor 4 or five tumblers &c. We had an extraordinary time & did not break up till after two in the morning. We talked metaphysics continually, & Hegel, Schlegel, Kant &c were discussed under the influence of the whiskey. I shall not forget Adler's look when he quoted La Place the French astronomer--"It is not necessary, gentlemen, to account for these worlds by the hypothesis" &c. After Adler retired Taylor & I went out on the bowsprit--splendid spectacle. It came on calm in the evening, & we await a favorable shift of wind.

    Tuesday Oct 23 On gaining the deck this morning was delighted to find a fair wind. It soon blew stiff, & we scudded before it under double-reefed topsails, & mainsail hauled up. Running about 14 knots all day. Every one in high spirits. Captain told a rum story about a short skipper and a long mate in a little brig, & throwing overboard the barrels of beef & turpentine &c.

    Wednesday Oct 24 Fair wind still holds on; at 12 M. supposed to be half way over. Saw several land birds--very tame, lighted on deck --caught one.

    Thursday Oct 25 A fair wind--good deal of rain--About noon saw a ship on the other tack. She showed her colors & proved a Yankee. The first vessel that we had seen so near. She excited much interest. By evening blew a very stiff breeze, & we dashed on in magnificent style. Fine moonlight night, & we rushed on thro' snow-banks of foam. McCurdy invited Adler the Doctor & I into his room & ordered champagne. Went on deck again, & remained till near midnight. The scene was indiscribable. I never saw such sailing before.

    Friday Oct 26 Fair wind still. Towards noon came on calm, with a gawky sea. The ship rolled violantly, & many comical scenes ensued among the passengers. Breezed up again in the afternoon, & we went on finely. For a few days passed, Adler & I have had some "sober second thoughts" about our grand Oriental & Spanish tour with Taylor. But tonight, the sight of "Bradshaw's Railway & Steamer Guide" showing the marvellous ease with which the most distant voyages may now be accomplished has revived--at least in my mind,--all my original enthusiasm. Talked the whole thing over again with Taylor. Shall not be able to decide till we get to London.

    Saturday Oct 27. Steered our course on a wind. I played Shuffle board for the first time. Ran about aloft a good deal. McCurdy invited Adler Taylor & I to partake of some mulled wine with him, which we did, in my room. Got--all of us--riding on the German horse again--Taylor has not been in Germany in vain. After another curious discussion between the Swede & the Frenchman about Lamertine & Corinne, we sat down to whist, & separated at about 3 in the morning.

    Sunday Oct 28 Came on a strong breeze & lasted all day. Ship going about 12 miles an hour--begin to talk of port. Decks very wet, & hard work to take exercise ("Where dat old man"?) Read a little, dozed a little & to bed early.

    Monday Oct 29 Wet & foggy, but a fair fresh breeze--12 knots an hour. Some of the passengers sick again. In the afternoon tried to create some amusement by arraigning Adler before the Captain on a criminal charge. In the evening put the Captain in the Chair, & argued the question "which was best, a monarchy or a republic?"--Had some good sport during the debate--the Englishmen would'nt take part in it tho'.--After chat & Stout with Monsieur Moran & Taylor went on deck, & found it a moonlight midnight. Wind astern. Retired at 1 A.M.

    Tuesday Oct 30 Glorious day--Capital cakes for breakfast. --("Where dat old man"?) Saw a land bird. Weather beautifully clear. For the first time in five days got our observation. Find ourselves heading right into the middle of the Channel"--the Scilly Island out of sight to the North. Played Shuffle Board with Taylor & the ladies. Had a superb dinner, which we all relished amazingly. Drawing near port with a fine fair wind makes passengers feel generous. A good deal of wine & porter on table. A magnificent night--but turned in very early.

    Wednesday Oct 31 Fair, fresh wind still holds. Coming on deck in the morning saw a brig close to--& two or three ships. If the wind holds we shall make the Lizzard Light this evening, probably. May be in Portsmouth tomorrow night. All hands in high spirits. Had some mulled Sherry in the evening from McCurdy. Up late, expecting it to be the last night.

    Thursday. Nov 1st Just three weeks from home, and made the land--Start Point--about 3 P. M.--well up Channel--passed the Lizzard. Very fine day--great number of ships in sight. Thro' these waters Blake's & Nelson's ships once sailed. Taylor suggested that he & I should return McCurdy's civilities. We did, and Captain Griswold joined and ordered a pitcher of his own. The Captain is a very intelligent & gentlemanly man--converses well & understands himself. I never was more deceived in a person than I was in him. Retired about midnight. Taylor played a rare joke upon McCurdy this evening, passing himself off as Miss Wilbur, having borrowed her cloak &c. They walked together. Shall see Portsmouth tomorrow morning.

    Friday Nov 2d Wind from the East--ahead. Clear & beautiful day --but every one greivously disappointed. I think I shall get off at Portsmouth, instead of going round. May be in to night, after all. Spoke a Portsmouth Pilot boat, but took no pilot. Made the Bill of Portland--from which the Portland stone is got. Melancholy looking voyage, white cliffs indeed! In the evening played chess, & talked metaphysics my learned friend till midnight.

    Saturday Nov 3d Woke about 6 o'clock with an insane idea that we were going before the wind, & would be in Portsmouth in an hour's time. Soon found out my mistake. About eight o'clock took a pilot, who brought some papers two weeks old. Made the Isle of Wight about 10 A.M. High land--The Needles. Wind ahead &, tacking. Get in to night or to morrow--or next week or year. Develish dull, & too bad altogether. X X X X Continued tacking all day with a light wind from West. Isle of Wight in sight all day & numerous ships. One of our steerage passengers left in the Pilot Boat. Rum scene alongside with the boat. In the evening all hands in high spirits--Played chess in the ladies' saloon--another party at cards; good deal of singing in the gentlemen's cabin & drinking--very hilarious & noisy--Last night every one thought. Determined to go ashore at Portsmouth. Therefore prepared for it--arranged my trunk to be left behind--put up a shirt or two in Adler's carpet bag & retired pretty early.

    Sunday Nov 4 Looked out of my window, first thing upon rising & saw the Isle of Wight again--very near--ploughed feilds &c. Light head wind--expected to be in a little after breakfast time. About 10, A.M rounded the Eastern end of the Isle, when it fell flat calm. The town in sight by telescope. Were becalmed about three or four hours. Foggy, drizzly; long faces at dinner--no porter bottles. Wind came from the West at last. Squared the yards & struck away for Dover--distant 60 miles. At 6 o'clock (evening) passed Dungeness--then saw the Beachy Head light. Close reefed the topsails so as not to run too fast. Expect now to go ashore tomorrow morning early at Dover--& get to London via Canterbury Cathedral. Mysterious hint dropped me about my green coat. Talked with the Pilot about the perils of the Channel. He told a story of running down a brig in a steamer &c.--It is now eight o'clock in the evening. I am alone in my state-room--lamp in tumbler. Spite of past dissappointments I feel that this is my last night aboard the Southampton. This time tomorrow I shall be on land, & press English earth after the lapse of ten years--then a sailor, now H. M. author of "Peedee" "Hullabaloo" & "Pog-Dog". For the last time I lay aside my "log," to add a line or two to Lizzie's letter--the last I shall write onboard.--("Where dat old man?"--"Where books?)" I commence this Journal at 25 Craven Street, Strand, at 6 1/2 P.M. on Wednesday Nov 7th 1849--being just arrived from dinner at a Chop House, and feeling like it.

    Mon: NOV: 6th 1849. Having at the invitation of McCurdy cracked some Champaign with him, I retired about midnight to my state-room; and at 5 in the morning was wakened by the Captain in person, saying we were off Dover. Dressed in a hurry, ran on deck, & saw the lights ashore. A cutter was alongside, and after some confusion in the dark, we got off in her for the shore. A comical scene ensued. The boatmen saying we could not land at Dover, but only at Deal. So to Deal we went, & were beached there just at break of day. Some centuries ago a person called Julius Caesar jumped ashore about in this place, & took possession. It was Guy Fawke's Day also. Having left our baggage (that is Taylor, Adler & self) to go round by ship to London, we were wholly unincumbered; & I proposed walking to Canterburry--distant I 8 miles, for an appetite to breakfast. So, we strode thro' this quaint old town of Deal--one of the Cinque Ports, I beleive, and soon were in the open country. A fine autumnal morning & the change from ship to shore was delightful. Reached Sandwich (6 miles) and breakfasted at a tumble down old inn. Finished with ale & pipes. Visited "Richboro' Castle"--so called--a Roman fortification near the sea shore. An imposing ruin; the interior was planted with cabbages. The walls some 10 feet thick, grown over with ivy. Walked to where they were digging--and saw defined by a trench, the exterior wall of a circus. Met the proprietor--an antiquary--who regaled us with the history of the place. Strolled about the town, on our return, and found it full of interest as a fine specimen of the old Elizabethan architecture. Kent abounds in such towns. At one o'clock took the 2d class (no 3d) cars for Canterbury. The Cathedral is on many accounts the most remarkable in England. Henry II, his wife, & the Black Prince are here--& Becket. Ugly place where they killed him. Fine cloisters. There is a fine thought expressed in one of the inscriptions on a tomb in the nave. Visited the Dane John in the afternoon, rather evening. Beautiful view of the city & its numerous old churches. The old wall forms a fine promenade. Dined at the "Falstaff" Inn near the Westgate. Went to the theater in the evening, & were greatly amused at the performance: more people on the stage than in the boxes. Ineffably funny, the whole affair. All three of us slept in one room at the inn--odd hole.

    Tuesday NOV 6th. Swallowed a glass of ale, & away for the R.R. Station, & off for London, distant some 80 miles. Took the third class cars--exposed to the air--develish cold riding against the wind. Fine day--people sociable. Passed thro' Penshurst (P.S.'s place) & Tunbridge (fine old ruin there). Arrived at London Bridge at noon--crossed at once over into the city, & dinner at a chop-house in the Poulterey having eaten nothing since the previous afternoon dinner. Went on passed St Paul's to the Strand to find our house. They referred us elsewhere, being full. Secured rooms at last (one for each) at a guinea & a half per week. Very cheap.--Went down to the Queen's Hotel to inquire after our ship friends--(on the way green coat attracted attention)--not in. Went to Drury Lane at Julien's Promenade Concerts. (Admittance I.S.) A great crowd, & fine music. In the reading room happened to see "Bentley's Miscellany" with something about Redburn. (By the way, stopped at a store in the Row, & inquired for the book, to see whether it had been published. They offered it to me at a guinea). At Julien's also saw Blackwood's long story about a short book. It's very comical--seemed so, at least, as I had to hurry over it--in treating the thing as real. But the wonder is that the old Tory should waste so many pages upon a thing, which I, the author, know to be trash, & wrote it to buy some tobacco with. On the way home, stopped at the American Bowling Saloon in the Strand. A good wash & turned in early.

    Wednesday Nov 7th Rose at eight, & away we went down into the city & breakfasted at a "hole in the wall. " Then to the Blackwall R. R. Station for the East India Docks, after our trunks. After infinite trouble with the cursed Customs, we managed to get them thro'. (Two disconsolates on board the ship) At five PM. arrived home, & dined, & went to see Madam Vestriss & Charles Mathews at the Royal Lycceum Theater, Strand. Went into the Gallery (one shilling) Quite decent people there--fellow going round with a coffee pot & mugs--crying "Porter, gents, porter!"

    Thursday Nov 8th Dressed, after breakfast at a Coffee house, & went to Mr Bentley's. He was out of town, at Brighton. The notices of "Redburn" were shown me,--laughable. Staid awhile, & then to Mr Murray's,--Out of town. Strolled about, & went into the National Gallery. Dined with the Doctor & Adler, & after a dark ramble thro' Chancery Lane & Lincoln's Inn Feilds, we turned into Holborn, & so to the Princess's Theatere in Oxford Street. Went into the pit at the half price--one shilling. The part of a Frenchman was very well played. So also, skaters on the ice.

    Friday Nov 9th Breakfasted late, & went down to Queen's hotel--saw McCurdy there & Mulligan. Parted from the Doctor & Adler near the Post Office, & went into Cheapside to see the "Lord Mayor's Show" it being the day of the great civic feast & festivities. A most bloated pomp, to be sure. Went down to the bridges to see the people crowding there. Crossed by Westminster, thro' the Parks to the Edgeware Road, & found the walk delightful--the sun coming out a little, & the air not cold. While on one of the Bridges, the thought struck me again that a fine thing might be written about a Blue Monday in November London--a city of Dis (Dante's) clouds of smoke--the damned &c--coal barges--coaly waters, cast iron Duke &c its marks are left upon you, &c &c &c Stopped in at the Gallery of the Adelphi Theater, Strand, --horribly hot & crowded--good peice tho'--was in bed by ten o'clock.

    Saturday Nov 10th. At breakfast received a note from Mr Bentley in reply to mine, saying he would come up from Brighton at any time convenient to me. Wrote him, "Monday noon, in New Burlington St:"--After breakfast at a Coffee room, Adler went off to Hampton Court & the Dr: to the Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park. For me, I lounged away the day--sauntering thro' the Temple courts & gardens, Lincoln's Inn, The New Hall, Gray's Inn, down Holborn Hill thro' Cock Lane (DrJohnson's Ghost) to Smithfield (West). And so on to the Charter House, where I had a sociable chat with an old pensioner who guided me thro some fine old cloisters, kitchens, chapels. Lord Ellenborough lies buried hard by the founder. They bury all their dead on their own premises. Duke of Norfolk was confined here in Elizabeth's time for treason. From the Charter House thro' the Goswell Street Road to Barbican towards London Wall. Asked an officer of the Fire Department where lay St Swithin's --He was very civil & polite & offered to show me the way in person. "Perhaps you would like to see the way to the house where Whittington was born? Many Londoners never saw it"--"Lead on," said I--& on we went--thro squalid lanes, alleis, & closes, till we got to a dirty blind lane; & there it was with a slab inserted in the wall. Thence, thro' the influence of the Fire Officer, I pushed my way thro cellars & anti-lanes into the rear of Guildhall, with a crowd of beggars who were going to receive the broken meats & pies from yesterday's grand banquet (Lord Mayor's Day).--Within the hall, the scene was comical. Under the flaming banners & devices, were old broken tables set out with heaps of fowls hams &c &c pastry in profusion--cut in all directions--I could tell who had cut into this duck, or that goose. Some of the legs were gone--some of the wings, &c. (A good thing might be made of this) Read the account of the banquet --the foreign ministers & many of the nobility were present. From the Guildhall, strolled thro' the Poultery to the Bank & New Exchange--thence, down King William Street to Fish Street Hill, & thro Eastcheap to Tower Hill. Saw some fine Turkish armor (chain) every ring bearing a device. a supurb cannon, cut & bored from one peice of brass--belonged to the Knights of Malta. The headsman's block, upon which Kilmarnock & the Scotch lords were beheaded in the Pretender's time. The marks of the axe were very plain--like a butcher's board. Lounged on by St: Katherine's & London Docks & Ratcliffe-High Way, & within the dock walls to Wapping to the Tunnel. Crossed, to Rotherhithe, & back by boat--flinging a fourpenny peice to "Poor Jack" in the mud. Took a steamer, & returned to the Temple landing & off to the Adelphi to dinner at five P.M.--dark. After dinner, Adler & I strolled over to Holborn & it being Saturday night, entertained ourselves by vagabonding thro' the courts & lanes, & looking in at the windows. Stopped in at a Penny Theater.--Very comical--Adler afraid. To bed early.

    Sunday Nov: 11th. A beautiful autumnal day. Breakfasted about 10, & down to the Temple Church to hear the music. Saw the 10 Crusaders--those who had been to the Holy Land, with their legs crossed. Heads of the damned, fine. Then down to St Pauls--looked in a moment--then took a buss for Hampton Court with the Doctor. Thro' the Strand to Piccadilly & Hyde Park, past Kensington Gardens, Kensington, Hammersmith, Chiswick, Turnham Green, Kew, & across the Thames to Richmond Hill.--The royal gardens at Kew very splendid--past the Pagoda built by Chambers. From Richmond Hill, the prospect was ineffably fine. The place is justly renowned for its beauty. The day was one in a million for England, too. Here the poet Thompson dwelt. I was on top of the coach. Pope lived near here, at Twickenham, over the way. Arrived at Hampton Court about 2 P.M.--distant some 20 miles, I think, from St Paul's. The place is full of pictures.--Lely' & Vandique's--the Beauties--are lovely--the Dutchess of Cleveland.--Ignatius by Guido(?)--A Venus by Titian.--The Cartoons are not well disposed for light.--Oak work very rich dyed.--Rembrandt's Jew.--State Beds--Walked thro' the parks with the Doctor till after sundown--then to a road side inn, & drank a glass of ale. Returned to town by RR & dined at the Adelphi--then stopped in at St Martin's-In-the-Feilds, & to bed early.

    Monday Nov 12th. Received another note from Mr Bentley saying he would be in town this morning, according to my suggestion, at 12. A.M. Stopped in at the National Gallery on my way to New Burlington Street. Saw Bentley. Very polite. Gave me his note for 100 at 60 days for "Redburn"--Could'nt do better, he said. He expressed much anxiety & vexation at the state of the Copyright question. Proposed my new book--"White Jacket"--to him & showed him the Table of Contents. He was much pleased with it. And notwithstanding the vexatious & uncertain state of the Copyright matter, he made me the following offer:--To pay me 200 for the first 1000 copies of the book (the privilege of publishing that number). And as we might afterwards arrange, concerning subsequent editions. A liberal offer. But he could make no advance.--Left him, & called upon Mr Murray in Albemarl Street. Not in--out of town. Strolled down St James into the Park; took a buss & got out at the Cigar Divan in the Strand. Cheerlessly splendid. Walked to St Paul's, & sat an hour in a dozing state listening to the chaunting in the choir. Felt homesick & sentimentally unhappy. Rallied again, & down Ludgate Hill to the London Coffee House to dine according to appointment with Captain Griswold. Met Joseph Harper casually. He goes home in the Southampton. A regular Yankee.--Had a noble dinner of turtle soup, pheasant &c: with glorious wine. At 10 o'clock, left with the Captain & the rest of the company (Doctor, Adler, Mulligan, MCCurdy, "Stetson") for the "Judge &Jury" Bow Street. Exceedingly diverting but not superlatively moral. Nicholson is a naturally able man--so was one of the barristers. Was in bed before 1 o'clock

    Tuesday Nov 13th. According to arrangement overnight, the Doctor & I sallied out at seven o'clock (A.M.) & walked over Hungerford Bridge to Horsemonger Lane, Borough, to see the last end of the Mannings. Paid half a crown each for a stand on the roof of a house adjoining. An inimitable crowd in all the streets. Police by hundreds. Men & women fainting.--The man & wife were hung side by side --still unreconciled to each other--What a change from the time they stood up to be married, together! The mob was brutish. All in all, a most wonderful, horrible, & unspeakable scene.--Breakfasted about 11.A.M. & went to the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park. Very pretty. Fine giraffes. Dreary & rainy day. Returned home at 4.P.M. & wrote up Journal. McCurdy called in about six o'clock, at the house, & bored me terribly. But I wrote a letter home meantime.

    Wednesday Nov 14th After a very sound night's sleep rose much refreshed. Breakfasted at the old place in the Strand. Taylor on his last legs; some one loaned him a sovereign. But he said--"Never say die". His designs upon the two ladies (awkward expression, but perfectly harmless) have failed completely. Adler & I started for the Abbey & Westminster Hall. Wandered about there awhile--went thro' the chapels--a knight with one wife on his right side, & a vacant space on the left--the vacant lady refusing to be put there. A serio-comico moment about Death. Up the river in a penny steamer as far as Vauxhall, passing Lambeth Palace. Began to rain hard, & arrived home drenched. Rigged up again, & in my green jacket called upon Mr Murray in Albemarle St: He was very civil--much vexed about copyright matter.--I proposed "White-Jacket" to him--he seemed decidedly pleased--& has since sent for the proof sheets, according to agreement. Went down to the Exchange in an omnibus--& tried to thrust my way in "Loyd's"--but it was no go. Sauntered away the two hours to dinner by lounging by the shops. Opposite Somerset house in the Strand, happened to see a copy of Beaumont & Fletcher--stepped in--& found the shopman to be an old acquaintance of young Duyckinck's--Mr Stibbs. I bought a folio of "B & F" also one of Ben Johnson. And shall purchase more. He showed me a Chapman's Homer. Dined with the Dr: McCurdy & Adler--the Dr paying the bill. Tomorrow he starts with McC for the East--Jerusalem, &c.--Went to the New Strand Theater. A capital peace, excellently played--"The Clandestine Marriage" by Coleman. All the parts admirably sustained. Mrs Glover (an old veteran & great favorite) as Mrs Hidleburgh. Leigh Murray as Melvil--the finest leg I ever saw on a man--a develishly well turned out man, upon my soul. Old Farren was Lord Ogleby.

    Thursday Nov: 15th. Special Thanksgiving day appointed by the Queen. All the shops shut as if it were Sunday, & all the churches open. Went down to the Queen's Hotel to bid good bye to McCurdy & the Dr: Thence took a 'buss with Adler down Newgate Street thro' Holborn & Oxford Street to Paddington & Edgeware Road to St John's Wood & so round Regent's Park to Primrose Hill. The view was curious. Towards Hampstead the open country looked green, & the air was pretty clear; but cityward it was like a view of hell from Abraham's bosom. Clouds of smoke, as tho' you looked down from Mt Washington in a mist. Crossed Regent's park to New Road & got into a buss--outside--passed King's Cross & the famous Angel Inn, thro' City Road into Moorgate & so to the Bank. Lunched in a hole in Leadenhall Street--dismal lunch enough--& took a buss across London Bridge to the Elephant & Castle, Borough. Thence walked over Westminster Bridge to the Abbey & attended service there at 3 o'clock P.M. A vast crowd present & no seats. Walked home & wrote up journal &c. At half past 5 (P.M.) went with Adler to the "Edinburgh Castle" a noted place for its fine Scotch ale, the best I ever drank. Had a glorious chop & a pancake a pint & a half of ale, a cigar & a pipe, & talked high German metaphysics meanwhile. Home & to bed by 10'o'clock. The "Castle" is the beau ideal of a tavern--dark walled, & like a beef-steak in color, polite waiters &c.

    Friday 16th Nov. After breakfast at the old place in the Strand, went to the British Museum--big arm & foot--Rosetta stone--Ninevah sculptures--&c. From thence to Albemarle Street--Mr Murray was not in. Home, & wrote to Allan by the "Canada". Walked thro' Seven Dials to Oxford Street & so to Murray's again. Found him in--was very polite, but "would not be in his line to publish my book". Offered to give me some of his "Hand Books" as I was going on the Continant. So he sent me to the house his Book of the Continant & for France. Met Adler by appointment at the "Mitre Tavern", Mitre Court, Fleet Street--the place where Dr Johnson used to dine. His bust by Nollekins is there. Had a "stewed rump steak"--very fine, & bread & cheese, & ale (of course). Then up stairs & smoked a cigar. Cosy, & comfortable place enough. No cursed white walls. Stopped in at the "DrJohnson Tavern" over the way & drank a glass of ale. Bust of him there, also. Go to the place thro' a court, where the Dr used to live. Some rivalry between the two places. The last the darkest. Thence walked down to the Queen's Hotel, St Martin's Le Grand to see Timpson & get some more money for the fund to purchase the book for Cap: Griswold. P. was just off for Paris by Express. From thence took buss for Sadler's Wells Theater, Islington. Pit. One of Colley Cibber's comedies--"She would & she would not"--Don Manuel, Mr A Younge--an oldish man-seemed a favorite with the audience--not a bad comic actor.--The women (stage) were not peculiarly lovely.--After the first farce (a new one, "The First of May" "by A Younge") we walked to the Angel Inn, & took a buss across to Holborn & thro' Chancery Lane to Temple Bar.--Stopped at the "Cock Tavern" adjoining--(Tennyson's)--and drank two glasses of Stout, for which the place is famous--& sells no ales. --Dark & cosy--something Like the "Edinboro' ". Smoked a pipe also, & home with Adler & to bed.

    Saturday 17th Nov: Adler proposed a visit to the Dulwich gallery distant five miles, southwards. So, went to the "Kings & Key" Fleet Street, and mounted a buss there. Crossed Blackfriars to Elephant & Castle--& thro' Newington, Walworth, Camberwell, & Denmark-Hill to the beautiful hamlet of Dulwich--A most sequestered, quiet, charming spot indeed. --The gallery is full of gems--Titians, Claudes, Salvators, Murillos.--The Peasant Boys--The Venus--The Peasant Girl--Cardinal Beaufort--The mottled horse of Wouvermans--St John--The Assumption--The old man & pipe --Mrs Siddons as Tragic Muse. Curious old clock & tables. Met Yankee there. Left gallery, & took a little ramble round the country. Profound Calm--the green meadows & woodlands steeped in haze --strikingly English.--Rode back to town on top of buss. Adler & the Yankee carrying on a spirited discussion concerning the merits of the various paintings.--Walked towards home from the Kings & Key & concluded the affair of the present of the book to Cap: Griswold--Adler & I, however, have to pay down the most; it so happens.--Upon my arrival in Craven Street, & found the letter which I expected, from Mr Colbourn.--I should have put it down yesterday, that after leaving Mr Murray's in the afternoon--(by his instigation) I went to Mr Colbourn's in Great Marlborough Street--was ushered up into a suite of drawing-rooms & received by Mr C, who said, at last, I would hear from him, by the next day at 3.P.M. The letter simply declines my proposition (200 for 1st 1000 copies) & on the ground, principally, of the cursed state of the copyright matter. Bad news enough--I shall not see Rome--I'm floored--appetite unimpaired however--so down to the Edinburgh Castle & paid my compliments to a chop. Smoked a long pipe--& then into the adjoining book store--& turned over some noble old works, & chatted with the bookseller--a very civil, intelligent young man. Bought a quarto of Davenant, & a little copy of Hudibras.--Thence walked up to St Martin's Lane, thro' Seven Dials--St: Giles--to Holborn & down Regent St: home & to bed.

    Sunday 18th Nov: Rose & wrote up journal till nine o'clock. Then with the Professor down to a cheap chop house near Temple bar--& had a villainous cup of coffee, a large dirty roll, & a strip of fried bacon for 4 pence.--Then to the Temple Church--not open--so walked the cloisters awhile. Church opened & went in & walked round a half hour. Then out, & across the street to St: Dunstans. Then down Fleet Street & Ludgate hill (detour thro White-Friars) and parted with Adler at Black Friars. Took his umbrella for my cane. Went down street alone--looked in at St Paul's--and at last entered Bow Church, Cheapside. Was shown to a seat like a pit & sat out the entire service. Curious old church indeed. Returning home, left St Paul's Church Yard, thro' a court towards Doctors Commons, & wandered among a labyrinth of blind allis & courts to Apothecaries Hall & Printing House Square. Then crossed Fleet Street near Temple Bar, towards the North & threaded more allies, lanes, & courts & so home at 3. PM of a dismal drizzling day. Read a little about the Mannings murder--guide books &c--wrote Lizzie.--Dined with Adler at the Adelphi--then to the Rainbow tavern--(Tennyson's) & smoked a cigar in a room inhabited by a melancholy man. Splendid dining room at the Rainbow. Terrific bumper of Stout. famous for Stout.--Walked off alone down Fleet Street & went to St. Bride's Church. Woman showed me to a big pew--almost unasked--blushed a good deal, what with Stout, jam, heat, & modesty. Excited vast deal of gazing somehow. good sermon--a charity one. gave sixpence. Home & to bed.

    Monday 19th Rose & wrote. After breakfast with Adler went down to the City & presented my letters to Thomas Delf (Duyckinck's). Not in.--Then to David Davidson (Young D's) Paternoster Row--Wiley's Agent. Not in. Then to J. M. Langford P. Row--(Mrs Welford's) --Very civil reception--invited me to go to hear McCready same night--also to sup with him & meet Albert Smith the comic writer who has just returned from the East & purposes writing something "funny" about it. Leaving Mr Langford, went to the Longmans in the Row & proposed "the book". Saw Mr Longman himself--very polite--promised to send me a note by evening Took a buss up to Mr Bentley's to see if there should be any letters Found two budgets from home--much delighted me--also other letters. On first entering the place, a "clark" steps up--"Lord John Manners has been here for you, sir!"--The devel he has "And left this letter, Sir"--Shove it along then. His Lordship's note was very kind indeed,--he enclosed two letters to Monckton Miles & Lady E Drummond. Went into B's private room & read my home letters. Ali well thank God--& Barney a bouncer. Went to Mr Murray's. Told him, that people here having anticipated me, I should stay awhile now, & make some social calls &c. He took me up stairs to see his gallery of literary portraits. Fine head of Byron, Moore, Campbell, Borrow &c &c.--(Among other letters from the U. S. I received one from Willis, enclosing a letter to Lord J. Manners & M F Tupper. The letter to L. J. Manners is from his sister in New York.) Went home & answered Manners' note, saying I would call tomorrow. Having no one to send it by took it myself to the Albany, & handing it to the beadle to be delivered was told that Lord J. M. had that morning left town. Wrote him therefore at Belvoir Castle. Also sent off letter to Lizzy by the Herman. Dined with Adler at the Adelphi. Then home. Mr Langford called, & bidding poor Adler good bye (he is off for Paris at midnight by the steamer) went to the Haymarket. Full house. Went into the critics' boxes. "Times" & "Herald" men there. McCeady painted hideously. Did'nt like him very much upon the whole--bad voice, it seemed. James Wallack, Iago. very good. Miss Reynolds Desdemona--very pretty. Horrible Roderigo. Stayed out the first farce--"Alarming Sacrifice" by Buckstone the great commedian, who played the principal part--Bob Ticket. Very funny. Home & to bed at 12. Found a note from Murray inviting me to dine & meet Lockhart on Friday. Also note from Capt Griswold acknowledging volume.

    Tuesday 20th Opened the door & found a note on top of my blackened boots. It was from the Longmans, saying they abided by their original terms.--Breakfasted alone at the old place--capital coffee that--a nice neat place indeed & the morning papers delightfully fiesh. The old lady too very nicc. Returned home & read & wrote till 12 o'clock. Then got out some of my letters & resolved to go at it, like a regular job, which it is, this presenting letters of introduction. First went to Mr Rogers in StJames' Place--very quiet & death-like; --not in--left letter & card. Then across the Park to Upper Belgrave Street to the American minister. Found both him & Davis the Secretary. Mr Lawrence received me very kindly, said that the Duke of Rutland (father of L J Manners & L Emmeline) had been seeking my address from him. The D left town yesterday. Mr L invited me to call same evening at the Clarendon Hotel to see his wife &c. Learning from him that Lady E Drummond was in town, I went homc, rigged up & jumped into an omnibus for Oxford Street. Walked from thence to Bryanston Square--out of town--would'nt return till after Christmas. Left letter & card. Then walked to Upper Harley Street (devel of a walk, too) and left letter & card for Russell Sturgis. Also walked to Portman Square & left same forJoshua Bates. Then walked down street, stopped & learnt the address of Moxon the Publisher. Found him in--sitting alone in a back room--he was at first very stiff, cold, clammy, & clumsy. Managed to bring him to, tho', by clever speeches. Talked of Charles Lamb--he warmed up & ended by saying he would send me a copy of his works. He said he had often put Lamb to bed--drunk. He spoke of Dana--he published D's book here.--Thence, down to the Adelphi by buss & dined alone.--fried sole. Then home, & read & wrote. At 7 P.M. called at the Clarendon Hotel, Bond Street, upon Mr & Mrs Lawrence. Found them in a noble drawing room. Mr Lawrence was very kind, unaffected & agreeable. I like him much. He is a very fine looking benevolent-seeming man. But his wife! Such a sour, scrawny, scare crow was never seen till she first saw herself in the glass. I do not fly out at her for her person--no, but her whole air & manner--God deliver me from such horrors as Mrs. Lawrence possesses for me.--Her skinny scrawny arms were bare--She talked of Lady Bulwer--said that--but there is no telling how she managed so well her veiled & disgusted air, without being at all uncivil or meaning any incivility. She belongs to that category of the female sex, there are no words to express my abhorrence of. I hate her not--I only class her among the persons made of reptiles & crawling th1ngs. Coming home stopped at a place in the Haymarket--singular 1ntervlew there for a moment. Home early & to bed by 9 1/2.

    Wednesday Nov 21st. Breakfasted & took a ha'penny steamer at the Adelphi and down to London bridge--thence another steamer for Greenwich Hospital. Crowds of pensioners. Went into the Painted Hall--sea peices & portraits of naval heroes, coats of Nelson in glass cases. Fine ceiling. Was shown about the wards by a machine. Visited the Chapel. Fine painting by West of St Paul. Saw the Pensioners at dinner. over 1500. Remarkable sight. The negro.--Hat off!--Hat on!--Married men & unmarried--mess apart. 2 & 2. Pensioners in palaces! Story of Charles II. Walked in Greenwich Park. Observatory. Fine view from a hill--talk with an old pensioner there. Home by railway. From London Bridge walked to Delf's--not in. Thence to Davidson's in Paternoster Row. Had a talk with him--invited me to dine--went to Queen's Hotel. (Previously I stopPed in at the Longmans about the book) Dined on ox-tail soup--chops--ale--port wine. Good dinner & David a good fellow. Strolled thro' Fleet Market--butchering under hatches--blubber rooms. Walked with Davidson to American Bowling Saloon. Made me go in. Rolled one game & beat him. Then home & dressed for Mr Langford's. On the way, bought Lavater's Phisiognomy in Holborn, for 10 shillings (sterling). Found Langford & a young fellow, in his lodgings. Snug place enough. At last there came in four or five young fellows--sociable chaps. And in the end, Albert Smith the comic writer & Tom Taylor the Punch man & Punch poet. Smith was just from the East, & sported a blazing beard. A rattling, guffaw, cockney--full of fun & a little malice perhaps.--Nice plain supper--no stiffness. Porter passed round in tankards. Round table, potatoes in a napkin. Afterwards, Gin, brandy, whiskey & cigars. Smith told funny stories about his adventures in the East, &c. Gave me his address &c. Came away about 2.AM. & thro' Oxford Street home, & turned flukes. Found Moxon had sent me his copies of Charles Lamb--also found a card from Russel Sturgis & a note from Joshua Bates inviting me to dine & spend Sunday with him at East Sheen. Accepted.

    Thursday Nov 22 Rose late--headache--breakfasted & off on top of omnibus to Great Western Rail Road for Windsor. Had to wait an hour. Pleasant day. Round Tower--fine view. Long Walk. Went thro' the state apartments. Cheerlessly damnatory fine. Mast of the Victory & bust of Nelson. Shield of Cellini. Gobelin tapestry is miraculous. Made the acquaintance of an Englishman--viewed the royal stables with him. On the way down from the tower, met the Queen coming from visiting the sick Queen Dowager. Carriage & four, going past with outriders. The Prince with her. My English friend bowed & so did I,--salute returned by the Q but not by the P. I would commend to the Q Rowland's Kalydore for clarifying the complexion. She is an amiable domestic woman tho' I doubt not & God bless her, say I, & long live the "prince of whales"--The Stables were splendid. Endless carriages &c.--Walked in the Great Park with the Englishman talking about America. Arrived in London about 5 P.M. Dined & home. Found my book (Lavater & 1/2 sovereign, on top of it) in my room, also note from Mr & Mrs Lawrence inviting me to dinner, which, had to decline owing to prior engagement with Mr Murray. Went & left my reply in person at the Clarendon Hotel. Then to Bentley's--not in. Home & wrote up journal.

    Friday Nov 23 A long nights rest--having turned in at 9 1/2 & rising at about the same hour this morning. Must have caught cold last evening on top of the omnibuss from R.R. Station. Felt feverish & chilly by turns. Light breakfast, & down the Strand. Called on Capt: Griswold----not in. Then to the Aldine Chambers, & saw Davidson. Took me up stairs, & had a chat. He said he thought he could get my note (Bentley's) cashed for me--by which, felt much releived. Talked to him concerning WhiteJacket & Copyright. He said I must keep pushing & mentioned the names of some more publishers whom I ought to try. At his instance, he went with me to Bogue's (Strand) & introduced me. I stated my business. B. was all ears. Gave him an idea of the book. He finally said he would send me his answer by six o'clock this evening. It is now 3 1/2 P.M.; & I predict that he declines. We shall see.--After leaving Bogue, walked in the Temple courts & gardens. Then, went musing along thro' Drury Lane to Holborn, & came home with a fit of the Blues. On my way, bought a pound & a half of figs & brought them home to make lunches of. Wrote Lizzie & Allan by the Steamer which goes to Boston this time----

    Friday Nov: 23d, Continved 1/4 to 11.PM. I have just returned from Mr Murray's where I dined agreeably to invitation. It was a most amusing affair. Mr Murray was there in a short vest & dress-coat looking quizzical enough;--his footman was there also, habited in small clothes & breeches, revealing a despicable pair of sheepshanks. The impudence of the fellow in showing his legs--& such a pair of legs too!--in public, I thought extraordinary. The ladies should have blushed, one would have thought--but they did not;--Lockhart was there, also, in a prodigious white cravat, (made from Walter Scott's shroud, I suppose) He stalked about like a half galvinized ghost--gave me the tips of two skinny fingers, when introduced to me--or rather, I to him. Then, there was a round faccd chap by the name of Cook--who seemed to be Murray's factotum. His duty consisted in pointing out the portraits on the wall, & saying that this or that one was esteemed a good likeness by the high & mighty ghost Lockhart. There were four or fivc othcrs present--nameless, fifth rate looking varlets--& four lean women. One of them proved agreeable in the end. She had resided some time in China--I talked with her some time. Besides these, therc was a duodecimo footman, or boy in a tight jacket with bell-buttons. At dinner the stiffness, formality, & coldness ofthe party was wonderful. I felt like knocking all their heads together. I managed to get thro' with it, however, somehow, by conversing with Dr Holland, a very eminent physician, it seems--& a very affable, intelligent man, who has travelled immensely. After the ladies withdrew, the three decanters--Port, Sherry & Claret--were kept going the rounds with great regularity. I sat next to Lockhart, and seeing that he was a customer, who was full of himself & expected great homage; & knowing him to be a thorough going Tory & fish-blooded Churchman & conservative, & withall, Editor of the Ouarterly--I refrained from playing the snob to him, like the rest--& the consequence was he grinned at me his ghastly smiles.--After returning to the drawing room, coffee & tea were served, & I soon after came away. Such is a publisher's dinner. A comical volume might be written upon it.--Oh Conventionalism, what a ninny, thou art, to be sure. And now, I must turn in. But first, let me add, that upon coming home, I found a note for me from Bogue, the publisher. I knew its contents at once--there seemed little use in opening it.--He declined; alleging among other reasons, the state of the copyright question.--So we go.

    Saturday Nov 24 Upon sallying out this morning encountered the oldfashioned pea-soup London fog--of a gamboge color. It was lifted, however, from the ground & floated in mid-air. When lower, it is worse. Lamps lighted, as it was in the old lady's room where I took my usual breakfast--two small rolls, a bit of butter the size of a dollar, & about the thickness,--& two cups of incomparable coffee. After digesting the "Times" & the rolls, went down street & stopped in at Chapman & Hall's the publishers. Saw Mr Chapman, a very gentlemanly man. Proposed the book. He at once threw the copy-right matter at me. No go. Then went to the Aldine Chambers & saw Davidson who very kindly said he would get my note cashed. Left it with him, & went to H. G. Bohn's, York Street, Covent Garden. A florid fellow in a crimson vest. Proposed the book. No go. Walked thro the market, home.

    Saturday Nov: 24th Continued. Midnight. Just returned from East Sheen with an indefinite quantity of Champaigne Sherry, Old Port, Hock, Madeira, & Claret in me. But first to bring down my chronicle. After seeing Bohn (as above) & coming home, I was called upon by Mr Stevens, who travelled all the way up to my room here in the 4th story. He proves to be a very fine fellow, and I was the more pleased with him, & in some sort loved him, from the circumstance that he told me had been acquainted with "my wife" that is to say with Dolly. He stayed so long, however, that little time was left me to dress for Mr Bates'. Being rigged at last, tho', I sallied out, jumped into a buss & down to St: Paul's--there, took a Richmond stage, & away to East Sheen--9 miles. The buss was crowded. Alighted in a dark foggy lane, & picked my way towards a distant illumination which proved Mr Bates'. Upon entering the vestibule, some dozen footmen in small clothes & gold lace received me, and I was ushered into a sumptuous chamber up stairs. Descending into a parlor, Mr Bates gave me a courteous welcome. Shortly after, a mustache entered the room & sat down in a chair opposite--a Vienna man. The company gradually all appeared, & we went into dinner. On my left was a nephew of Lord Ashburton, & the Baroness de Somebody I don't know who. On my right was Mr Peabody, an American for many years resident in London, a merchant, & a very fine old fellow of fifty or thereabouts. There was a Baron opposite me, and a most lovely young girl, a daughter of Captain Chamier the sea novclist. Half the company were foreigners. The dinner was supurb--the table was circular--the service very rich. I ate of sundry mysterious French dishes. Every body was free, easy & in good humor--all talkative & well-bred--a strong contrast to the miserable stiffness reserve, & absurd formality of Mr Murray's, the tradesman's, dinner last night. Mrs Bates is a fat, ugly, good-natured, amiable woman of sixty. The Baroness is a pretty vivacious woman of thirty. Her husband, a round, sleek man, who said little, but ate his dinner with a relish. Mr Russel Sturgis was there. Somehow he reminded me of Murray's man, Cook, last night. Mrs Sturgiss is a fine looking lady. The wme went round freely after the ladies withdrew. Upon entering the drawing room, coffee & tea were served. The house is a large & noble one--the rooms immense--the decorations brilliant--statuary, vases, & all sorts of costly ornaments. I saw a copy of Typee on a table. Mr Bates seemed to be quite a jolly old blade.--I had intended to remain over night agreeably to invitation, but Peabody inviting me to accompany him to town in his carriage, I went with him, along with Davis the Secretary of Legation. By the way, Mr: Stevens invites me to dinner to morrow (Sunday) at Morley's. --Mr Peabody was well acquainted with Gansevoort when he was here. He saw him not long before his end. He told me that Gansevoort rather shunned society when here. He spoke of him with much feeling. No doubt, two years ago, or three, Gansevoort was writing here in London, about the same hour as this--alone in his chamber, in profound silence--as I am now. This silence is a strange thing. No wonder, the old Greeks deemed it the vestibule to the higher mysteries .

    Sunday Nov 25th. Passed a most extraordinary night--one continuous nightmare till daylight. Hereafter if I should be condemned to Purgatory, I shall plead the night of Nov: 25th 1849 in extenuation of the sentance. I impute the nightmare to a cup of prodigiously strong coffee & another of tea, which I took at Mr Bates' just previous to leaving. At daylight turned over & had a nap till about I0 o'clock. Dressed and emerged into a fog--quite thick. As my old coffee haunt in the Strand is closed on Sundays, I steered my way up St: Martin's Lane, intending to breakfast at the Hotel de commended to me by George Duyckinck, as "good & cheap". Lost my way in the fog, & stopped at an atrocious hole where I got coffee & roll for the sum of four pence--including a thimble-full of sugar. Drunken fellow there. Came at last upon Leicester Square, & as my breakfast had been most meagre & mean, proposed to myself a cup of French Coffee at the Hotel de Stepped in & called for it. & very good it was. Place full of Frenchmen. Charged me 18 pence for the coffee & small roll.--Thence to the Abbey & attended service. Abbey full of fog. Thence walked in St: James' Park. Saw the sentries (mounted) at the Horse Guards releived. Thence down to Edinboro' Castle and read the Sunday Times & Despatch. Thence down to Queen's Hotel to see Davidson. Not in. Thence, down street further yet, & wandered about Threadneedle, Throgmorton, Leadenhall Streets &c, passed Aldgate Pump into White Chapcl Road (where Bayard Taylor stopped) Passed Moses & Son establishment. Thence took buss to St: Pauls to service. Thence by buss home at S P.M. And thus closes a most foggy, melancholy, sepulchral day. But in half an hour's time from now I go to Morley's to dine with Stevens & Davis --& there I hope to recover myself in the companionship & conversation of mortals.--"Oh Solitude! where are the charms" &c.--

    Tuesday Nov 27th. Dined at Morley's & had a very pleasant time, on Sunday. Mr Davis and a Mr Newton (Chaplain in the Navy) were there. Newton is a fair sample of an idle man. He seems a good natured, well disposed sort of a liver upon Uncle Sam, however. No more. I am on board the steamer "Emerald" bound for Boulogne--we are just in the Nore, and the jar & motion are so great that writing is too hard work. I must defer bringing up my journal till I reach terra-firma. X X X X X X After the lapse of a few days, I find myself this Thursday night, snugly roomed in the fifth story of a lodging house N 12 & 14 Rue di Bussy, Paris. It is the first night that I have taken possession, & the "Bonne" or chambermaid has lighted a fire of wood, lit the candle, & left me alone, at 11 o'clock, P.M. On first gazing round, I am struck by the apparition of a bottle containing a dark fluid, a glass, a decanter of water, & a paper package of sugar (loaf ) with a glass basin next to it.--I protest all this was not in the bond.--But tho' if I use these things they will doubtless be charged to me, yet let us be charitable,--so I ascribe all this to the benevolence of Madam Capelle my most polite, pleasant, and Frenchified landlady below. I shall try the brandy before writing more. And now to resume my Journal. --To go back to Sunday afternoon, Nov: 25'h. After dining with Mr Stevens agreeably to invitation at Morley's, I smoked a cigar with Davis, & then we went to the Clarendon Hotel & called upon Mrs Lawrence. Found the lady & the Minister in. Mrs. Lawrence was so very pleasant this evening that I must take back the bitter things I said of her before. They have taken the Earl Cadogan's house in Piccadilly, to reside in.--Coming home with Davis I was struck with his expressions concerning the poverty & misery of so large a portion of the London population. He revealed a heart. Next day--Monday, Nov 26--after breakfast went to Davidson's to see about my note's getting cashed. Waited some time. At last, he came in, gave me a checque on his bankers, & off I went to Livingston & Wells down Lombard Street, & deposited 40 for Allan to draw in New York. When I went to the bankers, they shoveled the sovereigns over to me in curious style. At 2. P.M. called for Stevens at Morley's, & went with him & Newton to the library of the British Museum. Endless galleries & three-deckers of books. Saw many rareities.--Maps of London (before & after the Great Fire), Magna Charta --Charlemagne's bible --Shakespere's autograph (in Montaigne) &c &c &c. Went into the Manuscript room--saw the famous Alexandrian Manuscript & many Saxon M.S.S. of great value. Comical librarian.--Dined at the "Mitre" Fleet Street with Davidson, & paid the joint bill myself. Then to the "Blue Posts" Cork Street & took some of their renowned punch. Wrote Allan from thence. Then home & to bed, after packing my little portmanteau, which I had bought in London for travelling on the continent. On Tuesday--the 27th Nov:--rose early, paid my bill--3 guineas --& into a cab, & down to London Bridge stairs for the Bologne boat. Took a fore cabin passage (8 shillings--(saloon 12)). Fine run down the river, & fine cold morning. Passed Gravesend, Tilbury Fort (mid way to the sea) passed Sheerness near the mouth, & Margate. Great number of ships running out. Passed by the Goodwin Sands, Deal, South Foreland, Dover, & then across the Channel to Bologne. A shocking accident occurred to one of the hands of the boat. His foot was ruined in the machinery. All the passengers sea sick, but three or four. Young Frenchman consoling them. Arrived in Bologne about 8 1/2 P.M. Marched offto the Custom House & surrendered Passport. Then to the Bedford Hotel & took some tea & cold beef. Then to a cold bed. Rose early & took the 7 o'clock train for Paris,--distant 160 miles or more. Took "third class" train (fare about I S francs) Fine day & rode thro' a charming country. Did not stop at Amiens to see the Cathedral there--no time. Arrived in Paris (Rue Lagare) at 4 P.M. Took a cab with the young Frenchman & off to N 3 Rue de la Convention to find Adler. Could hear nothing of him. So went to "Meurice's" Rue Rivoli & took a room. Dined at table d'hote at a little after 5 P.M. Splendid table--French dishes--ate I know not what. Talked with two Englishmen at table. After dinner went to Galignani's--Adler's address not there. Subscribed to the reading room. Then walked to the Palais Royal. Gorgeous cafes there & shops--capital of Paris. Turned in early. To day--Thursday 29th Nou--rose early--breakfasted at a cafe in the Rue Rivoli & walked to the Place Concorde--magnificent. Crossed the Scine towards the Chamber of Deputies. Returned & met great numbers of troops marching all about. Like a garrisoned town. Wrote two letters to Adler. Went to the "Latin Quarter" in search of Madam Capelle--found her, engaged a room & recrossed the river. Visited the Bourse--great hum round a mystic circle--& Livingston & Wells's. Dined in the Rue Viviene for two francs--several courses including a bottle of Bordeaux. Then went to "Meurice's"--paid my bill (15 francs for a dinner, a bed & a sheet of paper) and drove to my present quarters on the other side of the Seine. Then walked to the Palais Royal (National now) & went into the pit of a theater there (Admittance 25 S0US) Three comical comedies--plenty of babies & wet napkins &c. Came away early & home --smoked & to bed. Next day, Friday. Breakfasted over the way at the "Cafe Francais". Very good place. Then down street with a blue nose (so cold it was) & visited Notre Dame. They are repairing it. A noble old pile. Then walked about the old city & crossed to Rue St Antone, to the Place de la Bastile, where now stands the column of July. Cafe la Bastile & villianous hole there. Then in a buss (roundabout way) to the Louvre, & spent three hours in the Museum. Heaps of treasures of art of all sorts. Admirable collection of antique statuary. Beats the British Museum. Then to the Bourse & dined at the "Rosbeef" Restaurant. Then to Galignani's & read the papers. Late arrival from New York. Great excitement again about California. Saw that the thing called "Redburn" had just been published. Extract from "Lit World" notice &c. Having received a note from Adler (to my great joy) who said he would be at his rooms at 1/4 past 7 this evening I called accordingly--Not in--so sat & jabbered as well as I could with Madam till he arrived. Was rejoiced to see him--we went together to his room--he brought out tobacco & we related our mutual experiences. Left him at nine o'clock & came home. Fire made & try to be comfortable. But this is not home &--but no repinnings.

    Saturday Dec 1st. Coffee & roll at 10 1/2 at Cafe over the way. At 11 A.M. Adler called & we started for the Hotel de Cluny. Stumbled upon the Sorbonne, & entered the court. Saw notices of Lectures--Cousin &c.--Hotel de Cluny proved closed. Took buss & went to Pere le Chaise. Fine monument of Abelard & Heloise. tombs of generals &c. Returning, visited Abattoir of Popincourt. Noteworthy place, founded by Napoleon. Old woman &c. Thence to the Boulevards & thro them to Rue Viviene to the Bourse & Livingston & Wells'. Dined with Adler at the "Rosbeef" & thence to his room in Rue de la Convention. At 7 1/2 p.m. left for the Palais Royal to see Rachel in Phedre. Formed in the "cue" in the arcade--stood an hour or two & were cut off. Returned bitterly disappointed to Adler's room,--bought a bottle of Bordeaux (price 8 sous) & drank half a glass of it. Home at 11 & to bed.

    Sunday Dec 2d. Rose about 10, & walked over to Palais Royal, where breakfasted at Cafe d' Orleans. Then to Adler's rooms & with him to the church of St Roche--noble interior--ladies' chapel--paintings &c. Singularly eloquent preacher--funeral. Thence to the Madeline --went in. Supurbe exterior. Thence thro Place Vendome, across Place de la Concorde over the river to Hotel des Invalids. In the Chapel saw the Austerliz flags &c. Algiers &c. Dining rooms. silver plate of officers. gallery of paintings. Thence thro' out-of-the way streets to the Luxemburgh. Fine gallery of modern French school. Large park, gardens. Chamber of Peers. Thence to the Sorbonne. Got into the church, & saw tomb or rather monument of Cardinal Richelieu. Good sculpture. Adler here left me. Went to the Panthe-non--still building. Thence into an old church near by, & thro Middle-Age courts & lanes to the river & thro' Place de la Carousel, to Adler's. At S . P. M. dined at his table' d'hote. Two members of the Chamber there. Several Yankees. Any quantity of Bordeaux. Cold room & chilly wine. A lady talking about "Flemish" things. After dinner Hotchkiss (A's friend) joined us in A's room; & we had a talk, with some Eau de vie & cigars. At I0, sallied out into a dark, rainy night, & made my melancholy way across the Pont (within a biscuit's toss of the Morgue) to my sixth story apartment. I dont like that mystic door (tapestry) leading out of the closet.

    Monday Dec 3d 1849. Went to Galignani's after breakfast to get ContinentalGuide. Returning met Adler in the Rue de la Fontane Moleire. Thence walked thro Champs Elysee to the Triumphal arch de l'Etoile. Ascended it--splendid view of Paris. Bought little medal of old woman. Took buss to the Pont Neuef. Got my original passport at the Police. Looked in at the Morgue. Dined at the "Rosbeuf". Called on Adler about five (P.M.) Smoked a cigar till his return from dinner. Then, went with him to the "Opera Comique" Boulevard des Italeans. Two peices, house crowded. Splendid orchestra. Home & to bed, after stopping with Adler at the Cafe de Foy for a cup of "chocholat," which was exquisite.

    Tuesday Dec 4th 1849. Met Adler at the "Bibliotheque Royale" (Cardinal Mazarin's) Looked over plates of Albert Durer, & Holbein. Walked thro' the halls of books. Saw autographs, Persian M. S. S. &c Coptic &c. Franklin's letter. Parnassus. Museum. Left Adler at his room & walked to the American Minister about passport. Thence to the Prefecture of Police &c. Develish nuisance, the whole of it. Bought two pair of gloves, one pair of shoes for Lizzie. Bought a copy of Telemachus for self near the Louvre. Called on Adler at his room & invited him to dinner. Went to the Italian Boulevard and dined at the Cafe Anglais. Thence to Cafe de Cardinal for chocolate. Thence to his room and talked high German metaphysics till ten o'clock. Then home & wrote up journal, as above. And now to bed.

    Wednesday Dec 5th, Breakfasted at a cheap place in the Place de Carousel. Wandered about the stalls along the quays & bridges. Went to the Museum Dupryten. Pathological. Rows of cracked skulls. Skeletons & things without a name. Thence to the Hotel de Cluny. A most unique collection. The housc is just the house I should like to live in. Glorious old cabinets--ebony, ivory carving.--Beautiful chapel. Tapestry, old keys. Leda & the Swan. Descended into the vaults of the old Roman palace of Thermis. Baths &c. Thence lounged along the quays to the Palace of the Deputies. Sauntered in past the guards. And would have gained admittance to the Chamber but for the un lucky absence of my passport, which I had left to get the "visas" of the Belgian & Prussian ministers. Thence to Adler's. He invited me to dine with him. Went to the N 3 Rue de la Convention and dined with three Americans. Thence to the Theatre Francais, to hear Madam Rachel. Formed in the "queue" but gave it up at last. Back to Adler's, smoked a cigar & crossed the river home, & to bed early.

    Thursday Dec 6th Took my last breakfast in Paris at The Cafe Francais, Rue de Bussy. Thence to Galignani's, & read the papers. Thence took buss for the R. R. Depot & off to Versailles. Old man for guide thro' the gardens. A most magnificent & incredible affair altogether. Splendid paintings of battles. Grand suite of rooms of Louis Le Grand. Titan overthrown by thunderbolts &c. Apollo & the horses on the fountain. Back to Paris by dusk. Took a cab & went to Meurice's & got my passport. Thence to my rooms in Rue di Busy--paid my bill &c--took a last adieu of Madam Capelle & went to Adler's. Dined at a Restaurant near Palais Royale & with Adler went to his rooms--where I now write up my last Parisian journal.--Selah! .

    Friday Dec 7th 1849. Brussels. Sat up conversing with Adler till pretty late,--(Topic--as usual--metaphysics. ) Then turned in, in a room below him with orders to be roused at 6 1/2 A.M. Rose accordingly & dressed in the dark--taking my usual bath. Off to the R.R. Station in a cab--Fare to Brussels, something like 27 francs--2d class cars. A dull dreary ride all day over an interminable flat pancake of a country. Passed thro' Amiens, (second time; could'nt see the cathedral)--Arras (where were an immense number of windmills) & several fortified towns--Doual, Valenciennes (renowned for lace) At Quievrain passports were demanded. At Valenciennes we entered the Netherlands or Belgium--Low Countries indeed.--And so thro' Mons & Soignies to Brussels. Drove a prodigious ways up a long narrow ravine of a street to the Hotel de France, where I arrived about 7l/2 P.M. in the dark. Was accompanied by a fellow passenger from the R.R. --a phlegmatic impracticable North of England man. He conversed however, a little upon America. Took tea with him--then a short stroll & here I am in a fine chamber, all alone, in the capital of Belgium. "There was a sound of revelry by night, And Belgium's capital had gathered then her beauty and her chivalry" But no sound of"revelry" now, heaven knows. A more dull, hum-drum place I never saw--tho' it seems a fine built place. Waterloo is some 8 miles off. Can not visit it--& care not about it. To morrow I am off for Colognc. It is a chance whether I can get up the Rhine, or not--owing to the ice. Must try it tho'.

    Saturday Dec 8th 1849 Breakfasted tete a tete with the English phlegmatic--he said nothing & I ditto. Having determined to travel into Germany entirely unincumbered, I left my carpet bag--or rather portmanteau at the hotel, and after a short stroll (during which, I walked thro the Palace Park & by the Palace, & past the Botanic Gardens of the King, & along the miniature Boulevards) I went to the R.R. Station & took my seat for Cologne. I took a second class car, whlch was as pleasant as the 1st class in America & incomparably better than the corresponding class in England. For fellow "voyagers" I had a cocked-hatted priest & several dark eyed young women in crape hoods. One of them looked mysterious. For the first 60 miles or so our way lay thro' the same flat, dead country, as from Paris to Brussels. But at Liege (the gun place) the scenery changed. It was all hill & valley & we wound thro' the most romantic defiles imaginable --by old ruined mills & farm houses of the Middle Ages. At the Prussian frontier my passport was demanded & taken. In the car was a young Frenchman--a genuine blade, who carried a flask of Belgian Gln in hls pocket wlth a glass, & he frequently invited me to drink. He had been in America. At Aix-la-Chapelle he & party left us, & there only remained in the car, with me, a young Berlin man, who talked a little English. About 9 o'clock we arrived at Cologne, in the dark, and taking a "buss" drove to a Hotel--I supposed that it was the Hotel de Cologne, having been advised to go thither by the Guide Book. The place proved to be a great, cold, vacant palace (half stable) I took tea (a la Francais) and retired early into a German bed, with a pillow at my feet. I intended taking the boat at 10 1/4 in the morning, & so slcpt sweetly dreaming of the Rhine.

    Sunday Dec 9th 1849 Cologne Sallied out before breakfast, and found my way to the famous cathedral, where the everlasting "crane" stands on the tower. While inside was accosted by a polite worthy who was very civil pointing out the "curios". He proved a "valet de place". He tormented me home to the Hotel & got a franc out of me. Upon going to the Steamer Office I learned that no boat would leave that morning. So I had to spend the day in Cologne. But it was not altogether unpleasant for me so to do. In this antiquated gable-ended old town--full of Middle-Age, Charlemaigne associations,----where Rubens was born & Mary De Medeci died--there is much to interest a pondering man like me. But now to tell how at last I found that I had not put up at the "Hotel de Cologne", but at the "Hotel de Rhin"--where my bill for a bed, a tea, & a breakfast amounted to some $2, in their unknowable German currency.--Having learnt about the Steamer, I went to the veritable Hotel de Cologne, (on the river) & there engaged the services of a valet de place to show me the sights of the town for 2 francs. We went to the Cathedral, during service--saw the tomb of the Three Kings of Cologne--their skulls. The choir of the church is splendid. The structure itself is one of the most singular in the world. One transept is nearly complete--in new stone, and strangely contrasts with the ruinous condition of the vast unfinished tower on one side. From the Cathedral we went to the Jesuits' Church, where service was being performed Thence to the Museum & saw some odd old paintings; & one splendid one (a sinking ship, with the Captain at the mast-head --defying his foe) by (?). Thence, to St Peter's Church, & saw the celebrated by Rubens. Paid 2 francs to see the original picture turned round by the Sacristan. Thence home. Went into a book store & purchased some books (Views & Panorama of the Rhine) & then to the Hotel. At one' o'clock dinner was served (Table d'hote). A regular German dinner & a good one, "I tell you". Innumerable courses--& an apple-pudding was served between the courses of meat & poultry. I drank some yellow Rhenish wine which was capital, looking out on the storied Rhine as I dined. After dinner sallied out & roamed about the town--going into churches, buying cigar of pretty cigar girls, & stopping people in the streets to light my cigar. I drank in the very vital spirit & soul of old Charlemagne, as I turned the quaint old corners of this quaint old town. Crossed the bridge of boats, & visited the fortifications on the thither side. At dusk stopped at a beer shop--& took a glass of black ale in a comical flagon of glass. Then home. And here I am writing up my journal for the last two days. At nine o'clock (3 hours from now) I start for Coblentz--60 miles from hence.--I feel homesick to be sure-- being all alone with not a soul to talk to--but then the Rhine, is before me, & I must on. The sky is overcast, but it harmonizes with the spirit of the place.

    Monday Dec: 10th 1849. Coblentz. Embarked last night about 9 1/2 PM. for Coblentz But before so doing went out after tea to take a final stroll thro' old Cologne. Upon returning to the hotel, found a large party assembled, filling up all the tables in the Dining Saloon. Every man had his bottle of Rhenish, and his cigar. It was a curious scene. I took the tall spires of glasses for castles & towers, and fancied the Rhine flowed between. I drank a bottle of (?). When the boat pushed off it was very dark, & I made my way into the 2d cabin. There I encountered a German, who was just from St: Louis in Missouri. I had a talk with him. From 9 1/2 P.M. till 5. A.M, I laid down & got up, shivering by turns with the cold. Thrice I went on deck, & found the boat gliding between tall black cliffs & crags.--A grand sight. At last arrived at Coblentz in the dark, & got into a bed at the "" near the quay. At ten o'clock in the morning descended to breakfast, & after that took a valet de place & crossed the Bridge of Boats to the famous Quebec fortress of Ehrbrincedstein. A magnificent object, truly. The view from the summit is superb. Far away winds the Rhine between its castellated mountains. Crossed the river again, & walked about the town--entering the curious old churches --half Gothic, half Italian--and crossed the Moselle at the stone bridge--near where Prince Metternich was born. Singular that he was born so near the great fortress of Germany--Still more curious that the finest wine of all the Rhine, is grown right under the guns of Erhbreistien. At one'o'clock dined at "The Giant" at the table d'hote. There were some six or eight English present--two or three ladies & many German officers. The dinner was very similar to the dinner at the Hotel de Cologne yesterday. After dinner, walked out to the lower walls & into the country along the battlements. The town is walled entirely. At dinner I drank nothing but Moselle wine --thus keeping the counsel of the "Governor of Coney Island" whose maxim it is, "to drink the wine of the country in which you may be travelling." Thus at Cologne on the banks of the Rhine, & looking at the river thro' the window opposite me--what could I imbibe but Rhenish? And now, at Coblentz--at the precise junction of the Moselle--what regale myself with but Moselle?--The wine is blueish--at least tinged with blue--and seems a part of the river after which it is called. At dusk I found myself standing in the silence at the point where the two storied old rivers meet. Opposite was the frowning fortress & some 4000 miles was America & Lizzie.-- Tomorrow, I am ! Hurrah & three cheers!

    XXX I last wrote in my Journal on the banks of the Rhine--& now after the lapse of a few days, I resume it on the banks of the Thames, in my old chamber that overlooks it, on Saturday the 15th of Dec: '49. ----I broke off at Coblentz on Monday night, Dec: 10th. That same night I fell in with a young Englishman at a cigar shop & had a long talk with him. He had been in America, & was related to Cunard of the Steamers. Next morning, when we arrived at Dover. Disembarked in the dark in a small boat & went to The Sign of "The Gun". Breakfasted, & took myself off to the Custom House to get my luggage thro'. They seized my fine copy of "Anastasius" which I had bought at the Palais Royale & told me it was food for fire. Was much enraged therat. Took 2d class train for London at 6 1/2 A.M. A fat Frenchman in the car with whom I conversed a little. A burly farmer in small clothes & high boots sat opposite me. Another long dismal ride thro' Kent, on a raw dismal morning--& at 12. M. arrived at London Bridge--after posting all the way from Coblentz, without cessation. Took buss for Craven Street. On getting there found that Mr Rogers had called--"a gentleman from St: James who came in his coach"--as the chambermaid expressed it. Also was handed--with a meaning flourish--a note sealed with a coronet. It was from Mr Rutland--The Duke of Rutland I mean--inviting me to visit Belvoir Castle at any time after a certain day in January. Can not go--I am homeward-bound, & Malcolm is growing all the time.--I was in a villians garb with travel --had not shaved in a week--dirty shirt &c--So, dressed, & went to Bentley's after letters. Found one from Lizzie, & Allan. Most welcome but gave me the blues most terribly--Felt like chartering a small-boat & starting down the Thames instanter for New York. Dined at the "Blue Posts" & took some punch to cheer me. Came home, had a fire made, & wrote to Lizzie & Allan. While so employed the girl knocked & brought me a package of letters. They were from the Legation, & were from Lizzie & Allan--a week later than those I got in the morning. I read them, & felt raised at once. Both were written in fine spirits--& that was catching. Walked out & read them over again--with the "Powell Papers" at the "Edingburgh Castle". Home early & to bed.

    Friday Dec 14 '49. Breakfasted at my old place. Then went & bought a Paletot in the Strand, so as to look decent--for I find my green coat plays the devel with my respectability here. Then went & got my hair cut, which was as long as a wild Indian's. Then dressed, & went to Mr Rogers'--out of town--left card. Thence to Lincoln's Inn Feilds & left letter & card for Mr Foster of the "Examiner". Thence to the College of Surgeons, & called on Mrs: Daniel. Spent a halfhour there very pleasantly. Two fine girls her daughters. (Invited me to tea at 8 o'clock, Saturday.) Thence in a buss to the Bank, & stopped to in- quire of the agents about the packet ships. I shall go on the "Independence", if nothing happens. Thence home & wrote further to Lizzie & Allan & put up the "Times" forJudge Shaw. Wrote Willis Duyckinck, & the Judge. Then at 6. P.M. dined at the old place-- The Adelphi--& treated myself to a cut of turkey. Thence to the Haymarket & saw Mr & Mrs Charles Kean & Buckstone, & Wallack in "The Housekeeper" a drama by Douglas Jerrold. The same thing we saw murdered at Canterbury. Left the theater at 9'o'clock & bought a pair of pantaloons for one pound five. Then home & to bed after a cigar--one of the Secretary's bunch. Saturday Dec 15th 49 After breakfast went among the book stores & stalls about Holywell Street. At last succeeded in getting the much desired copy of Rosseau's Confessions" for eleven shillings. Walked down Fleet Street after a copy of "Knight's London" Could not get it--but, returning, found a copy in the Strand. Bought it for 1. 10. Then home & rigged for Bentley's--whom I expected to meet at 1. PM. about "White Jacket. " Called, but he had not yet arrived from Brighton. Walked about a little & bought a cigar case for Allan in Burlington Arcade. Saw many pretty things for presents--but could not afford to buy. Bought a bread trencher & bread knife near Charing Cross. "The University bread trencher" used of old at Commons, now restored. Very generally used here. A fine thing, & English--Saxon:--Home & wrote up journal. At 4. PM. am to call again at Bentley's. He does not know I am in town--I earnestly hope I shall be able to see him & that I can do something about that "pesky" book. 6 O'clock P.M. Hurrah & three cheers! I have just returned from Mr Bentley's, & have concluded an arrangement with him that gives me tomorrow his note for 200. It is to be at 6 months--and I am almost certain I shall be able to get it cashed at once. This takes a load off my heart. The ~200 is in anticipation--for the book is not to be published till the Is' of March next. Hence the long time of the note. The aforementioned sum is for the 1st 1000 copies. Subsequent editions (if any) to be jointly divided between us.--I also spoke to him about Liut: Wise's book, & he is to send for it. At eight to night I am going to Mrs Daniel's. What sort of an evening is it going to be? Mr Bentley invited me to dinner for Tuesday at 6. P. M. This will do for a memorandum of the engagement. I have just read over the Duke of Rutland's note, which I have not fairly perused before. It seems very cordial. I wish the invitation was for next week, instead of being so long ahead--but this I beleive is the mode here for these sort of invitations into the country.--(Mem: at 1.P.M on Monday am to call at Mr Bentley's)

    Sunday Dec 16 '49. Last night went in a cab to Lincoln's Inn Feilds, & found Mrs Daniel & "daughts:" very cordial. The elder "daught" remarkably sprightly & the mother as nice an old body as any one could desire. Presently there came in several "young gents" of various complexions. We had some coffee, music, dancing & after an agreeable evening I came away at 11 o'clock, & walking to The Cock near Temple Bar drank a glass of Stout & home & to bed, after reading a few chapters in Tristam Shandy, which I have never yet read. This morning breakfasted at 10, at the Hotel de Sabloneire (very nice cheap little snuggery being closed on Sundays) Had a "sweet ommelette" which was delicious. Thence walked to St: Thomas's Church, Charter House, Goswell Street to hear my famed namesake (almost) "The Reverend H Melvill." I had seen him placarded as to deliver a Charity Sermon. The church was crowded--the sermon was admirable (granting the Rev: gentleman's premises). Indeed he deserves his reputation. I do not think that I hardly ever heard so good a discourse before--that is from an "orthodox" divine. It is now 3. P.M. I have had a fire made & am smoking a cigar. Would that One I know were here. Would that the Little One too were here. I am in a very painful state of uncertainty. I am all eagerness to get home--I ought to be home--my absence occasions uneasiness in a quarter where I must beseech heaven to grant repose. Yet here I have before me an open prospect to get some curious ideas of a style of life, which in all probability I shall never have again. I should much like to know what the highest English aristocracy really & practically is. And the Duke of Rutland's cordial invitation to visit him at his Castle furnishes me with just the thing I want. If I do not go, I am confident that hereafter I shall upbraid myself for neglecting such an opportunity of procuring "material." And Allan & others will ac- count me a ninny.--I would not debate the matter a moment, were it not that at least three whole weeks must elapse ere I start for Belvoir Castle--three weeks! If I could but get over them! And if the two images would only down for that space of time. I must light a second cigar & revolve it over again. 1/2 past 6. P.M. My mind is made; rather, is irrevocably resolved upon my first determination. A visit into Leicester would be very agreeable --at least very valuable, in one respect, to me--but the Three Weeks are intolerable. Tomorrow I shall go down to London Dock & book myself for a state-room on board the good ship Independence. I have just returned from a lonely dinner at the Adelphi, where I read the Sunday papers. An article upon The "Sunday School Union" particularly struck me. In an hour's time I must go to Morley's & call upon Stevens & Davis.--Would that I could go home in a Steamer--but it would take an extra $100 out of my pocket. Well, its only 30 days --one month--and I can weather it somehow.

    Monday Dec 17th 1849. Was delighted & exhilerated this morning by a view of the sun--a rare sight here--looking into my river window. Upon sallying out, I found a fine day. Last night after writing my journal (as above) I called on Stevens & sat a while. He spoke of Powell, & that certain persons had called upon him denouncing Pow- ell as a rogue--Poor fellow--poor devel--poor Powell! Took my breakfast as usual at the old place & walked down to London Dock. The "Independence" proves to be an old ship--she looks small--& smells ancient. Only two or three passengers engaged. I liked Captain Fletcher, however. He enquired whether I was a relation of Gansevt Melville, & of Herman Melville. I told him I was. I engaged my passage & paid 10 down. Took a buss & rode to Mr Bentley's ac- cording to appointment at 1 o'clock. We concluded the arrangement of "White Jacket" & he gave me his note for 200 at 6 mos: From thence went to Mr Murray's. Had a talk with him about sundry things. On going away his cousin invited me to dine with him on Wednesday at his chambers in the Temple. Accepted. Thence to the National Gallery & spent an hour looking at Rembrandt's Jew & the Saints of Taddeo Gaddi, & Guido's Murder of the Innocents. Looked in at the Vernon Gallery. Thence walked down the Strand & stopped at a book auction in Wellington Street. Gruff chap had no "catalogues. " Thence to Adelphi & dined. Thence to Davidson's--not in. Thence down Newgate St: looking in at the book stores. Saw many books I should like to buy--but can not. Then thro' Farrington Street (where I bought pocket Shakspeare &c) to the Strand (a little this side of the Bar) & had a long chat with a tobacconist of whom I bought 3/4 pound of very fine Cuba Cigars at about 2 cents & a half (our money) a peice. Thence home; & out again, & took a letter for a Duke to the Post office & a pair of pants to be altered to a tailor. Drank a pint of ale & by the Haymarket, & so home & wrote Journal.

    Tuesday Dec 18th 1849 Miserable rainy day. Treated myself to a sugar omelette, at the old place, for breakfast. Thence went to the British Museum--closed. Thence among the old book stores about Great Queen Street & Lincoln's Inn. Looked over a lot of ancient maps of London. Bought one (A.D. 1766) for 3 & 6 pence. I want to use it in case I serve up the Revolutionary narrative of the beggar. Thence into Chancery Lane, into a horrible hole & bought a fine copy of Chatter- ton & a 3. Vol: ed: of Guzman. (Chatterton was 5 Shillings--Guzman 2) Left them to be bound. Thence to Paternoster Row & saw Davidson. Saw the Literary World's review of"Redburn". Also the Publisher's Advertisements in the New York "Courier". Gave Davidson my ~200 note to get discounted, if possible, at his banker's. I have no receipt to show--so if he dies to night, I am minus $1000. Ditto if he decamps. But he is a very fine, good-hearted fellow--& I hope he wont see this. Upon getting home at 2. P. M. found my copy of "Knight's London" & a note from Mr Rogers, inviting me to breakfast for Thursday next. Accepted. Putting my reply in the office, I stopped at a silversmith's (corner of Craven St & Strand) & bought a solid spoon for the boy Malcolm--a , I mean. When he arrives to years of mastication I shall invest him with this fork--as of yore they did a young knight, with his good sword. Spent an hour or so looking over "White Jacket" preparatory to sending it finally to Bentley--who, tho' he has paid his money has not received his wares. At 6 I dine with him.

    Wednesday Dec 19, '49 Last night dined with Mr Bentley, and had a very pleasant time indeed. I begin to like him much. He seems a very fine frank off-handed old gentleman. We sat down in a fine old room hung round with paintings (dark walls) A party of fourteen or so. There was a Mr Bell there--connected with Literature in some way or other. At all events an entertaining man and a scholar--but looks as if he loved old Port. Also Alfred Henry Forrester ("Alfred Crow- quill") the comic man. He proved a good fellow--free & easy--& no damned nonsense, as there is about so many of these English. Mr Bentley has one daughter a fine woman of 25 & married, and 4 sons --young men. They were all at table.--Some time after 11 . went hence with Crowquill, who invites me to go with him Thursday & see the Pantomime rehearsal at the Surrey Theater.--After breakfast this morning called in at Stibbs' the bookseller & coming across a fine old copy of Sir T. Browne--bought him, for 16 Shillings (sterling) --about $4, also, nice edition of Boswell's Johnson--for 21 Shillings. Thence went to the British Museum--& wandered about for a couple of hours there. Thence to Gordon Square and left letter & card for Mr Atkinson. Thence thro' the New Road to Tottenham Court Road into Oxford Street & so to St: James's. Stopped in Arlington Street to see Mr Moore the apothecary. Was out of town. Thence to No 1 St James's place where I remained about 20 minutes. Thence home & made up a fire at 3 . P.M. To night at 6. I dine with Mr Cook

    Thursday Dec: 20 '49. Last night dined in Elm Court, Temple, and had a glorious time till noon of night. A set of fine fellows indeed. It recalled poor Lamb's "Old Benchers". Cunningham the author of Murray's London Guide was there & was very friendly. A comical Mr Rainbow also, & a grandson of Woodfall the printer of Junius, and a brother-in-law of Leslie the painter. Leslie was prevented from coming. Up in the 5th story we dined. The Paradise of Batchelors. Home & to bed at 12. This morning breakfasted with Mr Rogers at 10. A remarkable looking old man truly. Supurb paintings. No one but he & I together. At leaving he invited me to breakfast with him again on Sunday & meet some ladies. Accepted. Thence went to Bentley's--saw him--got some books out of him. Thence to Mr Murray's & saw him. With Mr Cooke I then went to the Erechtheum Club House in St: James Square, where I dine to night with Cooke's brother, a barrister with a quizzical eye. Thence looked in at the Reform Club House. Thence down Whitehall St & in thro' the Privy Gardens, & Sir Robert Peels to the New Houses of Parliament. After much trouble & waiting got into the House of Lords to see the frescoes. An artist a friend of Murray's, Mr John Tenniel, was our "open sesamie" Went all over the place--& spent two hours there--much against my will. A finished frescoe by "Herbert" is very fine in the Poets Hall--representing Cordelia & Lear. Cope is another of the artists. Tenniel's painting is St: Cecilia from Dryden. --Thence crossed the river to the Surrey Theater to keep appointment with "Crowquill". Too late. But went in behind the scenes, a little. Thence to Blackfriar's bridge, & took steamer for home. Made a fire & here I am. Stone, I beleive, is the name of the brother-in-law of Leslie. He was extremely urgent for me to spend Christmas with him & Leslie in St: John's Wood. I could barely resist him. But I sail on Monday. Last night--just on the eve of my going to the Temple--a letter was left for me--from home!--All well & Barney more bouncing than ever, thank heaven.--In a few days now my letter will be received announcing my sailing.--When at Bentley's this morning he said Mr Miller wanted to see me. Spoke to B about the time of bringing out White Jacket. And we mutually appointed the 23d day of January next (Wednesday) as the day for publishing here.

    Friday Dec 21, 1849 Last night dined at the Erechtheum Club St: James's with Mr Cooke (he with the eye)--nine sat down--fine dinner--Rainbow & others were there. Mr Cleaves is a fine fellow. An exceedingly agreeable company. The "Mull" after dinner, looked at some billiard playing awhile, & left. After breakfast this morning called on Mr Cleaves at his rooms in the Temple, & we visited the Library--Hall of the Benchers--Kitchen--rooms--Dessert room & table. Portraits of the Benchers. In the Library saw some fine old M.S.S--of the Kings & Queens & Chancellors hundreds of years ago. Thence to Lincoln's Inn, & visited the New Hall, Kitchen, Library &c--Very fine. Sublime Kitchen--chimney place. Also visited the courts in the Inn--2 Vice Chancellors courts,--and the Lord High Chancellor Cottenham--an old fellow, nearly asleep on the bench. Thence to the Court of the Master of the Rolls--Rolls' Court --a very handsome man--Lord Something, I forget what-- Strange story about him. Thence, left Mr Cleaves & went to London Dock, thro' the Wharves to see about the ship's sailing. Saw Captain Fletcher. Sails 3 P.M. tomorrow. Thence walked to Davidson's Paternoster Row--invited him to dine with me tonight. Thence towards home & bought a large carpet bag for my traps--price 14 Shillings. Found a note from Mr Foster of the Examiner inviting me to breakfast Sunday morning--declined being engaged at Mr Rogers.

    Saturday Dec 22, '49. Dined last night with Mr Davidson at the Blue Posts. Sat there in very pleasant conversation till 11 o'clock--then home. This morning breakfasted at the old place--then returned to my room & packed up. Cabbed it to London Docks & put my lug- gage aboard to go round to Portsmouth. Ship Sailed at 3 P.M. to day. Thence to Davidson's to see about my money. While waiting for him, ran out, & at last got hold of"The Opium Eater" & began it in the office. A wonderful thing, that book.--Davidsons checque I got cashed, & went with the 'funds" to Baring Brothers &c in Bishopgate St: & got a letter of credit on America for 180. Thence walked home --cold dry day--& made fire at 1/2 past 3. PM. To night at 6 I dine again at the club in St: James's Square. On this account I declined the invitation from Mrs Daniel to tea &c. Cooke sent me a note inclosing an order for me to visit the Reform Club House. He is very obliging.

    Sunday Dec 23d '49 Last night dined at the Erechtheum Club--a party of eight--Charles Knight the author of London Illustrated &c & the Publisher of the Penny Cyclopedia & concerned in most of the great popular publications of the day;--Ford the Spanish Traveller & Editor of the Guide Book--Leslie the painter--Cunningham the London Antiquarian & author of the London Guide published by Murray;--& Mr Murray the Albemarl Street man--together with Cooke & a youth whose name I forget.--We had a glorious time & parted at about midnight. This morning breakfasted with Mr Rogers again. And there met "Barry Cornwall" otherwise Mr Procter, & his wife--and Mr Kinglake (author of Eothen?) A very pleasant morning we had, and I went away at 1/4 past one o'clock. Thence walked thro St: James's Park & came home & made a fire. 3 . P.M.--While sitting in my room reading the "Opium Eater" by the fire I am handed Mr George Atkinson's card--the girl (pursuant to my directions) having told him at the door that I was "not in". I am obliged to employ this fashionable shift of evasion of visitors--for I have not a decent room to show them--but (& which is the cause) I can not in conscience ask them to labor their way up to the 4th story of a house. ----1/2 past 3 P.M. Have just this moment finished the "Opium Eater". A most wondrous book.

    Portsmouth Monday Dec 24th 1849 Coffee Room of the Quebec Hotel. After finishing the marvellous book yesterday sallied out for a walk about dusk, & encountered Capt: Fletcher who was on the point of calling upon me. Walked down the Strand with him & left him at the London Coffee House. He seems a very fine fellow. Dined at Morley's at six PM yesterday with Parker (a little chap) & Somerby my future fellow passenger in the ship. Home by 11 o'clock & to bed. This morning (Monday) breakfasted for the last time at "the old place" and took an affectionate & melancholy adieu of my two ladies there. Thence to Mr Bentley's--saw him--exchanged my odd volume of the thing;--and thence went to the "Reform Club".-- Supurb hall of pillars &c. Kitchen--pastry room--meat room-- cutlets arranged like cravats--"butters" &c. Bathing & Dressing rooms--boot-pullers. Thence strolled about & bought some books --& a bread trencher & knife for Mrs Shaw, (3. 10.)--Thence to dinner at "the old place" & bid that also an adieu. Bought some things at the Bazaar in the Strand. Bid good bye to my room in Craven Street--drove to the Waterloo Station in a cab--after a five hours ride--here I am waiting the ship in Portsmouth. Mr Somerby came with me.

    Tuesday Dec 26. 1849 Christmas . Rose from a right comfortable English bed and took a short stroll into the town--passed the famous "North Corner". Saw the "Victory", Nelson's ship, at anchor. While at breakfast with Captain Fletcher a messenger arrived saying that our ship was off the harbor. Instantly the coffee cups were capsized, & every thing got ready for our departure. Jumped into a small boat with the Captain, Somerby, an Englishman (Mr Jones) and his little girl--& pulled off for the ship about a mile & a half distant. Upon boarding her, we at once set sail with a fair wind, & in less than 24 hours passed the Land's End & the Scilly Isles--& standing boldly out on the ocean, stretched away for New York. Five days have elapsed--the wind has still continued favorable, & the weather delightfull. No events happen-- & therefore I shall keep no further diary.--I here close it, with my departure from England, and my pointing for home.

    At sea, Dec 29. 1849.

    Wednesday, Jan: 30th 1850 Got sight of a pilot boat, this morning about 12. M.

    Journal 1856-57

    Sailed from New York Oct 11th, Saturday, 1856 in the screw-steamer Glasglow bound for Glasglow. In 15 days made the north of Ireland,--Rathlin isle--passed Arran Ailsa Crag &c (see map) Ailsa looming up in the mist. Got to Greenoch 10 at night, lay there at anchor, next morning, Sunday, went up the Clyde to Glasglow. Great excitement all along. Banks like tow-pathes--narrow channel-- immense steamer--green heights--received by acclamation--Lord Blantyre's place--opposite mud cottage--cattle tenders--women --pace like cattle--places for building iron steamers.

    Next morning went to old cathedral,--tombs, defaced inscriptions --others worn in flagging--some letters traced in moss--back of cathedral gorge & stream--Acropolis--John Knox in Geneva cap frowning down on the cathedral--dimness of atmosphere in keeping--all looked like picture of one of the old masters smoked by Time-- Old buildings about the hill stone walls & thatch roof--solid & fragile--miserable poverty--look of the Middle Ages--west end & fine houses--the moderns--contemporary.--The University. The park--the promenade (Seychill street)--at night population in the middle of the street. High Street. Next morning took steamer down the Clyde to Loch Lomond--R. R. part of the way--thick mist, just saw the outline of Ben Lomond-- like lake George--came back & stopped at Dumbarton Castle-- isolated rock, like Ailsa--promontory at the juncture of the Clyde & Levern--covered with sod & moss--a cleft between--stone stairs & terraces--W. Wallace's broadsword--great cleaver--soldiers in red coats about the Rock like flamingoes among the cliffs--some rams with smoky fleeces -- grenadiers -- smoked by the high chimnies of furnaces in Dumbarton village--

    Memorandum of stay in Liverpool

    Saturday, Nov 8th 1856. Arrived from York, through Lancaster, at 1. P.M, having passed through an interesting country of manufactures. A rainy day. Put up at "White Bear Hotel" Dale St:. Dined there at ordinary. Before sitting down, asked bar-maid, "How much?" Curious to observe the shrinking expression, as if shocked at the idea of anything mercenary having part in the pure hospitality of an ordinary. Host & hostess at table. Comical affectation of a private dinner party. All thought of the public house banished. Entertaining his friends. "Will you have some ale?"--But charged in the bill.-- Affectation of the unstinted bounty of a Christmas party, but great economy.--Capital bed.--After dinner went to Exchange. Looked at Nelson's statue, with peculiar emotion, mindful of 20 years ago.-- Stayed at hotel during the evening. Rain. Made acquaintance with an agreeable young Scotchman going to the East in steamer "Damascus" on Monday. Wanted me to accompany him. Sorry that circum- stance prevented me.

    Sunday, Nov 9th Rain. Stayed home till dinner. After dinner took steamboat for Rock Ferry to find Mr Hawthorne. On getting to R. F, learned he had removed thence 18 months previous, & was residing out of town.--Spent evening at home.

    Monday Nov 10th Went among docks to see the Meditteranean steamers. Explored the new docks "Huskisson" &c. Saw Mr Hawthorne at the Consulate. Invited me to stay with him during my sojourn at Liverpool.--Dined at "Anderson's" a very nice place, & charges moderate.

    Tuesday Nov 11 Went among the steamers in the morning. Took afternoon train with Mr Hawthorne for Southport, 20 miles distant on the sea-shore, a watering place. Found Mrs. Hawthorne & the rest awaiting tea for us.

    Wednesday Nov 12 At Southport. An agreeable day. Took a long walk by the sea. Sands & grass. Wild & desolate. A strong wind. Good talk. In the evening Stout & Fox & Geese.--Julian grown into a fine lad; Una taller than her mother. Mrs Hawthorne not in good health. Mr H. stayed home for me.

    Thursday Nov 13. At Southport till noon. Mr. H. & I took train then for Liverpool. Spent rest of day pressing inquiries among steamers, & writing letters, & addressing papers &c. Friday Nov 14 Took 'buss for London Road,--"Old Swan" Passed quarry. Returning, called at Mr Hawthornes. Met a Mr Bright. Took me to his club & lunched there. Then to view Unitarian church, & Free Library & Cemetery.

    Saturday Nov 15 Rode in the omnibuss. Went out to Toxhete Park &c--Grand organ at St. George's Hall. Sunday Nov 16 In the morning packed trunk. To church in the after- noon, & evening.

    Monday Nov 17. Was to sail to day in "Egyptian" Captain Tate, but put off till tomorrow. Great disappointment. Tired of Liverpool.

    Tuesday Nov 18--Sailed about three o'clock. Fine sight going out of harbor.

    Voyage From Liverpool to Constantinople.

    Nov 19th. Saw Tusca Rock, on Irish Coast.

    Nov 20, 21, 22d Fair wind & fine weather. Passed Cape Finnistere.

    Sunday 23d Passed within a third of a mile of Cape St: Vincent. Light house & monastery on bold cliff. Cross. Cave underneath light house. The whole Atlantic breaks here. Lovely afternoon. Great pro- cession of ships bound to Crimea must have been descried from this point.

    Monday 24th Strong wind ahead. Sighted Cape Trafalgar. Entered the Straits of Gibralter at 4. P. M. Mountainous & wild-looking coast of Africa--forsaken barbarous. "Apes Mountain" nearly opposite Gibralter. "Pillars of Hercules". Tarifa, small village,--white. Insular Rock. Sunset. Rock strongly lit, all the rest in shade. England throwing the rest of the world in shade. Vast heighth. Red sky. Sunset in the Straights. Gate of the East. Many ships.--Looks insular as Bass Rock or Ailsa.--Calm within Straits. Long swell took us. The Meditterranean.

    Tuesday 25. Nov Beautiful morning. Blue sea & sky. Warm as May. Spanish coast in sight. Mountains, snow capped, always so Captain says. Mate comes out with straw hat. Shirt sleeves. Threw open my coat.--Such weather as one might have in Paridise. Pacific. November too! Like sailing on a lake.

    Wednesday 26. At sunrise close to African Coast. Mountains, in parts crested with snow. Peeps of villages, wild looking. At noon, off Algiers. In the vicinity beautiful residences among the hills. White house among gardens. Reminded one of passages in Don Quixotte, "Story of the Morisco. " Saw the Mole & lighthouse--the town built up a hill--latteen boats in view. The sun hot. High mountains all around. Fine bay. Piratical corsair look.--Leaving it in the distance the town looked like a sloping rock, covered with bird lime--the houses all white.--In the afternoon passed a detached group of very high mountains covered a long way down with snow--Alpine heigths. The most solitary & dreariest imaginable.

    Thursday 27th Same glorious weather. In the evening passed Isle Galita--uninhabited. Clear nights, stars shining with brilliancy.

    Friday 29th Bright & blue as usual. At noon passed close to Pantalaria, an isle 150 ms from Malta, & 200 from Africa. Cultivated slopes & plain all round a mass of lofty rock. Beautiful landscapes inland. A town & scattered houses. A large castle. Belongs to Naples. Convicts here.--Went to bed at 8. P.M and at 1. A.M. dressed & went on deck, the ship about entering Malta harbor. To bed again when anchor was down.

    Saturday. 29th Lying in the harbor of Malta. Ashore all day. At 6. P.M. got under weigh, with two passengers in cabin, a Greek & Austrian, very gentlemanly men.

    Sunday 30. Cross sea, ship rolling very bad. G & A quite sick. Rather dismal day. At night had to secure myself in berth against being rolled out.

    Monday Dec 1. Sea less cross. At 12. M. pleasant, & made the coast of Greece, the Morea. Passed through the straits, & Cape Matapan.

    Tuesday Dec 2. At daylight in the midst of Archplago; 12 or 15 islands about. Came to anchor at Syra about 8 A.M. Port of the archilpalgo. Much alarmed lest we should have a quarantine of eleven days. Saw the quarantine house--lonely place among bare hills; opposite the shipping. At the Custom house with the Captain & his papers; at a grating, took the ship's papers with pair of wooden tongs. Meantime an officer off to the ship to muster the crew; if one was dead, or missing,--quarantine! All right, though. --Went ashore. New & old Town. Animated appearance of the quay. Take all the actors of operas in a night from the theaters of London, & set them to work in their fancy dresses, weighing bales, counting cod- fish, sitting at tables on the dock, smoking, talking, sauntering,-- sitting in boats &c--picking up rags, carrying water casks, bemired &c--will give some notion of Greek port. Picturesqueness of the whole. Variety of it. Greek trousers, sort of cross between petticoat & pantaloons. Some with white petticoats & embroidered jackets. Fine forms, noble faces. Mustache &c.--Went to Old Town. From the water looks like colossal sugarloaf. white houses. Divided from New Town by open lots. Climbed up. Complete warren of stone houses or rather huts, built without the least plan. Zig-zag. little courts in front of each, sometimes overhead, crossing the track. Paved with stone, roofs flat & m'cadamized. Up & up, only guide was to mount. At last got to the top, a church, from court of which, fine view of archilpago & islands (name them)--Looks very old;-- probably place of defence. Poor people live here. Picturesque. Some old men looked like Pericles reduced to a chiffonier--such a union of picturesque & poverty stricken.--Streets of stairs up the Old Town. As if made for goats. The donkeys climb them. All round barren tawny hills, here & there terraced with stone. Saw a man ploughing with a peice of old root.--Some roofs planted. Very dirty. Terrible nest for the plague.--View of the islands--little hamlets, white, half way up mountains.--The azure of the sea, & ermine of the clouds, the Greek flag (blue & white) seems suggested by the azure of her sky & ermine of her clouds. The wharf; a kind of semicircle, coinciding with the ampitheater of hills.--In December tables & chairs out of doors, coffee & water pipes. Carpenters & blacksmiths working in the theatrical costumes--Scavenger in his opera costume going about with dust pan & brush through the streets, & emptying his pan into panniers of an ass. --No horses or carriages--streets merely made for foot- passengers.--The crowds on the quays all with red caps, looking like flammgos. Long tassells--laborers wear them, & carry great bundles of codfish on their heads.--Few seem to have anything to do. All lounge. Greek signs over a pieman's.

    Wednesday & Thursday 3d & 4th still at Syra. On the last day I did not go ashore. Several steamers arrived. Got my sovereigns back from Loyd's. Other two passengers sailed for Athens.

    Friday 5th At 2 A.M got under weigh for Salonica. Passed various islands. First bad weather encountered since leaving England. Rain & wind About sunset passed through very narrow passage into the Gulf of Salonica. In the cabin had a Greek gentleman & wife for passengers; with 12 or 15 Greeks for deck passengers. Steamed slowly during the night, so as to make the harbor at a proper time in the morning.

    Saturday 6th At day break roused by the Captain to come on deck. Did so. Saw Mount Olympus, covered with snow at the summit, & looking most magestic in the dawn. Ossa & Pelion to the South. Olympus 10,000 feet high, according to the Captain's chart. O & P about 4 or 5000. Long ranges of hills along the Thessalain shore. Mount Athos (rather conical) on the opposite shore. About nine o'clock came to anchor before Salonica. A walled town on a hill side. Wall built by Genoese. Minarets & cyprus trees the most conspicuous objects. The Turkish men of war in harbor. Olympus over against the town far across the water, in plain sight. Went with Captain with papers to the quarantine. All right & shook hands. (Usual ceremony of welcome). Went to the Abbots, ship's agents. Politely received. One of their employees took me a stroll through the town. Went into the mosques. Tomb of an old Greek saint shown in a cellar. Several of the mosques formerly Greek churches, but upon the conquest of the Turks turned into their present character. One of them circular & of immense strength. The ceiling mosaic. Glass. Peices continually falling upon the floor. Brought away several.--Saw Roman remains of a triumphal arch across a street. Fine sculpture at the base representing battle scenes. Roman eagle conspicuous. About the arch, miserable buildings of wood. A Turkish cafe near one pier. Also saw remains of a noble Greek edifice. 3 columns &c. used as gateway & support to outhouse of a Jew's abode. Went into the Bazaar. Quite large, but filthy. Streets all narrow, like cow lanes, & smelling like barn-yards. Very silent. Women muffled about the face. All old. No young. Great numbers of Jews walking in long robes & pelisses. Also Greeks mixed with the Turks. Aspect of streets like those of Five Points Rotten houses. Smell of rotten wood. Three months ago a great fire, overrunning several acres. Not yet rebuilt. 60 persons killed by explosion of powder in a Greek warehouse,--powder not known to have been there.

    Sunday Dec 7th Purposed going with Captain Tate to the Protestant missionaries, but learned they were absent at Cassandra. Duckworth, the English resident, came off early. Talked with him. Said he had been a day's shooting in the Vale of Tempe--Ye Gods! whortleberrying on Olympus, &c. Went ashore with Captain. Started from Abbots' on horseback with a guide & guard to the Abbotts place three miles inland. On emerging from gate met the first troop of camels. Passed an immense cemetery. Turbanded tomb stones. Rode over bleak hills--no verdure--here & there an old sycamore. A shade with fountain, & inscription from the Koran. Passed some vineyards. Abbots place enclosed by high thick stone wall. On knocking, after a good time, gate was opened, & we were repulsed. But presented letter. Guards came running with muskets. Letter read at last by a handsome, polite Greek, who then led us through the grounds. Oriental style. Very beautiful. Hot houses & fountains & trellises & arbors innumerable. Old sycamores. Served with sweetmeats & liqueurs & coffee. Bath rooms Thick dome perforated--light but no heat.--Returned at 3 P. M. & dined aboard.--Saw several flocks of sheep & shepherds on the hills. Met donkeys a plenty. Surprising loads they carry. Long timbers, bales &c. Scene in the Gate.--In the evening Captain told a story about the heap of arms affecting the compass. Beautiful weather all day, & gloriously clear night.

    Monday Dec 8th. Lovely day. Ashore & visited the walls. Was repulsed from a tower by a soldier who refused money. Went through the bazarrs. At the landing watched for an hour or two a vast crowd & tumult. An Austrian steamer from Constantinople just in, with a great host of poor deck passengers, Turks, Greeks, Jews &c. Came ashore in boats, piled up with old dusty traps from which the Plaige seemed shaken. Great uproar of the porters & contention for luggage. --Imagine an immense accumulation of the rags of all nations, & all colors rained down on a dense mob, all strugling for huge bales & bundles of rags, gesturing with all gestures & wrangling in all tongues. Splashing into the water from the grounded boats.--After dinner on board, several deck passengers came off to us to go to Constantople. Turkish women among others. Went right aft on deck & spred their carpets. One prayed, bowing her head. Two negreses, faces covered, to conceal their beauty. Arms all taken down into the cabin after being discharged. --Upon the uproar at the landing Olympus looked from afar cold & snowy. Surprising the Gods took no interest in the thing. Might at least have moved their sympathy. --Heard a rumor by way of Trieste that Louis Napoleon had been assassinated.--Forgot to mention the pulpit of St. Paul in the court of a mosque. Beautiful sculpture--all one stone. Steps &c. The chief lion of Salonica, is this.

    Tuesday Dec 9th Remained on board, observing the arrival of deck passengers for Constantople A large number in all costumes. Among others two "beys effendi" in long furred robes of yellow, looking like Tom cats. They had their harems with them. All on deck. At I l/2 P. M got under weigh. Lovely day. A calm. Ship steady as a house. Like a day in May. A moonlight night followed. Passed Olympus glittering at top with ice. When it was far astern, its snow line showed in the moonlight like a strip of white cloud. Looked unreal--but still was there. Passed Ossa & Pelion. Rounded Athos. Got up tents for the two harems. Guard set over them. Fine old effendi wounded at Sinope. Some very pretty women of the harem. "Ashmacks" worn by them. Very lazy. Wednesday Dec loth Up early, fine morning, off "Lemnos, the AEgean isle." Passed to the north of it, between it & Imbros. About 11 A.M. entered the Helespont. Gentle wind from the north. Clear & fine. The new castles of Europe & Asia on either hand. Little difference in the aspect of the continents. Only Asia looked a sort of used up--superannuated. Shores moderately lofty. A sober yellow the prevalent colour. Passed a good many vessels bound down before a gentle wind with all sail set. Among others a Turkish steam friggate. Passed the New Castles at the Dardeneles, proper; then Point Nagara; then Cape Sestos & Abydos--a long swim had Leander & Byron; then Gallipoli, where the French & English first landed during the War. Then entered the Sea of Marmora, when we were suddenly met by a dense fog. It cleared up soon however; but was followed by other mists. The weather changed.--The sail up the Helespont is upon the whole a very fine one. But I could not get up much enthusiasm; though passing Xerxes' bridge-piers (or the site of them) & the mouth of the Granicus, &c &c &c. Still, I thought what a sublime approach has the Sultan to his capital. Antichambers of seas & lakes, & corridors of glorious straits. 8 1/2 P.M. Tomorrow morning I must rise betimes to behold Constantinople, where it remains to be seen how long I shall sojourn. N.B. Cap. T. has not yet accounted for the piastres.

    Thursday Dec 11th Thick fog during the night. Steamed very slowly, ringing the bell. Ere daylight came to anchor in the Sea of Marmora, as near as the Captain could determine, within but three miles or less of Constantinople. All day the fog held on. Very thick, & damp & raw. Very miserable for the Turks & their harrems; particularly when they were doused out by the deck-washing. Some sick & came below to the fire; off with their "ashmacks" &c. Several steamers at anchor around us, but invisable; heard the scream (alarms) of their pipes & ringing of bells.--During the second night, heard the Constantple dogs bark & bells ring. Old Turk ("Old Sinope") I said to him "This is very bad" he answered "God's will is good, & smoked his pipe in cheerful resignation.

    Friday Dec 12th. About noon fog slowly cleared away before a gentle breeze. At last, as it opened around us, we found ourselves lying, as in enchantment, among the Prince Islands, scores of vessels in our own predicament around us. Invisable confounds. (Forgot to note that during the fog several "kyacks" came alongside, attracted by our bell. They had lost their way in the fog. They were Constanople boats. One of them owned by a boy, who moored under our quarter & there went to sleep in the fog. Specimen of an oriental news boy. The self-possession & easy ways. The first appearance of Constanople from the sea is described as magnificent. See "Anastasius" But one lost this. The fog only lifted from about the skirts of the city, which being built upon a promontory, left the crown of it hidden wrapped in vapor. Could see the base & wall of St. Sophia but not the dome. It was a coy disclosure, a kind of coquetting, leaving room for imagination & heigthing the scene. Constantinople, like her Sultanas, was thus seen veiled in her "ashmack". Magic effect of the lifting up of the fog disclosing such a city as Constanple.--At last rounded Seraglio Point & came to anchor at 2 PM in the Golden Horn. Crossed over to Tophanna in a caique (like a canoe, but one end pointed out like a knife, covered with quaint carving, like old furniture) No demand made for passport nor any examination of lug- gage. Got a guide to Hotel du Globe in Pera. Wandered about a little before dinner. Dined at 6 P.M. 10 F per day for 5th story room with- out a carpet &c. Staid in all night. Dangerous going out, owing to footpads & assassins. The curse of these places. Cant' go out at night, & no places to go to, if you could. Burnt Districts

    Saturday Dec 13th Up early; went out; saw cemeteries, where they dumped garbage. sawing wood over a tomb. Forrests of cemeteries. Intricacy of the streets. Started alone for Constanple and after a terrible long walk, found myself back where I started. Just like getting lost in a wood. No plan to streets. Pocket-compass. Perfect labryth. Narrow. Close, shut in. If one could but get up aloft, it would be easy to see one's way out. If you could get up into tree. Soar out of the maze. But no. No names to the streets no more than to natural allies among the groves. No numbers. No anything. --Breakfast at 10 A.M. Took guide ($1.25 per day) and started for a tour. Took caique for Seraglio. Holy ground. Crossed some extensive grounds & gardens. Fine buildings of the Saracenic style. Saw the Mosque of St Sophia. Went in. Rascally priests demanding "bakshesh". Fleeced me out of 1/2 dollar; following me round, selling the fallen mosaics. Ascended a kind of horse way leading up, round & round. Came out into a gallery fifty feet above the floor. Supurb interior. Precious marbles Porphyry & Verd antique. Immense magnitude of the building. Names of the prophets in great letters. Roman Catholic air to the whole.--To the Hippodrome, near which stands the six towered mosque of Sultan Achmet; soaring up with its snowy spires into the pure blue sky. Nothing finer. In the hippodrome saw the obleisk with Roman inscription upon the base. Also a broken monument of bronze, representing three twisted serpents erect upon the tails. Heads broken off. Also a square monument of masoned blocks. Leaning over & frittered away--like an old chimney stack. A Greek inscription shows it to of the time of Theodosius. Sculpture about the base of the obelisk, representing Constantine, wife & sons, &c. Then saw the "Burnt Column". Black & grimy enough & hooped about with iron. Stands soaring up from among a huddle of old wooden rookeries. A more striking fire monument than that of London. Then to the Cistern of 1001 columns. You see a rounded knoll covered with close herbage. Then a kind of broken cellar way, you go down, & find yourself on a wooden, rickety platform, looking down into a grove of marble pillars, fading away into utter darkness. A palatial sort of Tartarus. Two tiers of pillars one standing on t'other; lower tier half buried. Here & there a little light percolates through from breaks in the keys of the arches; where bits of green straggle down. Used to be a resivoir. Now full of boys twisting silk. Great hubbub. Flit about like imps. Whir of the spinning jennies. In going down, (as into a ship's hold) and wandering about, have to beware the invisable skeins of silk. Terrible place to be robbed or murdered in. At what- ever point you look, you see lines of pillars, like trees in an orchard arranged in the quincus style.--Came out. Overhead looks like a mere shabby common, or worn out sheep pasture.--To the Bazarr. A wilderness of traffic. Furniture, arms, silks, confectionery, shoes, saddles--everything;. Covered overhead with stone arches, with side openings. Immense crowds. Georgians Armeanians, Greeks Jews & Turks are the merchants. Magnificent embroidered silks & gilt sabres & caparisons for horses. You loose yourself & are bewildered & confounded with the labyrinth, the din, the barbaric confusion of the whole.--Went to the Watch Tower within a kind of arsenal. (immense arsenal.) The Tower of vast girth & heigth in the Saracenic style--a column. From the top, my God, what a view! Surpasses everything. The Propontis, the Bosphorous, the Golden Horn, the domes the minarets, the bridges, the men of war, the cypruss. --Indescribable. --Went to the Pigeon Mosque. In its court, the pigeons covered the pavement as thick as in the West they fly in hosts. A man feeding them. Some perched upon the roof of the collonades, & upon the fountain in the middle & on the cypresses.-- Took off my shoes, & went in. Pigeons inside, flying round in the dome, m & out the lofty windows.--Went to Mosque of Sultan Sulyman. The third one in point of size & splendor.--The Mosque is a sort of marble marquee of which the minarets (four or six) are the stakes. In fact when inside it struck me that the idea of this kind of edifice was borrowed from the tent. Though it would make a noble ball room.--Off shoes & went in. This custom more sensible than taking off hat. Muddy shoes; but never muddy heads. Floor covered with mats & over them beautiful rugs of great size & square. Fine light coming through side slits below the dome. Blind dome. Many Turks at prayer; bowing head to the floor towards a kind of alter. Chanting going on. In a gallery saw lot of portmanteaus chests & bags; as in a R. R. baggage car, put there for safe-keeping by men who leave home, or afraid of robbers & taxation. "Lay not up your treasures where moth & rust do corrupt" &c. Fountains (a row of them) outside along the sides of the mosque for bathing the feet & hands of worshippers before going in. Natural rock.--Instead of going in in stockings (as I did) the Turks wear over shoes & doff them outside the mosque.--The tent like form of the mosque broken up & diversified with infinite number of arches, buttresses, small domes collanades &c &c &c.--Went down to Golden Horn. Crossed bridge of pontoons. Stood in the middle & not a cloud in the sky. Deep blue & clear. Delightful elastic atmosphere, altho December. A kind of English June cooled & tempered sherbet-like with an American October; the serenity & beauty of summer without the heat.--Came home through the vast suburbs of Galata &c. Great crowds of all nations--money changers--coins of all nations circulate--Placards in four or five languages; [(Turkish, French, Greek, Armenian) Lottery. ] advertisements of boats the same. You feel you are among the nations. Sultan's ships in colors--no atmosphere like this for flags.--No wonder poor homes. Dont want them. Open air. Chairs in the streets--crowds &c. Great curse that of Babel; not being able to talk to a fellow being, &c. (Ruffians of Galata)--Have to beware of your pockets. My guide went with his hands to his.--The horrible grimy tragic air of these streets. The rotten & wicked looking houses. So gloomy & grimy seems as if a suicide hung from every rafter within.--No open space--no squares or parks. You suffocate for room.--You pass close together. The cafes of the Turks. Dingy holes, faded splendor, moth eaten, on both sides wide seats or divans where the old musty Turks sit smoking like conjurers.--Saw in certain kiosks (pavilions) the crowns of the late Sultans. You look through gilt gratings & between many curtains of lace, at the sparkling things. Near the mosque of Sultan Solyman saw the cemetery of his family--big as that of a small village, all his wives & children & servants. All gilt & carved. The women's tombs carved without heads (women no souls) The Sultan Solyman's tomb & that of his three brothers in a kiosk. Gilded like mantle ornaments.

    Sunday Dec. 14. Three Sundays a week in Constanple. Friday, Turks; Sat, Jews; Sunday, Romanists, Greeks, & Armenians.--At 8. AM crossed over the 2d bridge to Stamboul to ride round the Walls. Passed between wall & Golden Horn through Greek &Jew quarters, and came outside the land wall in view of Sweet Waters, which run inland & end in beautiful glades. Rode along the land wall. By this wall Constanple was taken by the Turks & the last of the Constantines fell in their defence. Four miles of massiness, with huge square towers--a Tower of London--every 150 yards or so. In many parts rent by earthquakes. The towers especially. Great cracks & fissures. In one tower you see a jaw of light opening; the riven parts stand toppling like inverted pyramids. Evergreen vines mantling them. 4 walls parallel--added defences. The strength of the masonry shows, that when by earthquake the summit of a tower has been thrown down, it has slid off retaining its integrity--not separating, but rubbing like a rock-slide. In the wide tracks, they cultivate them-- garden spots--very rich & loamy--here fell the soldiers of Constantine--sowed in corruption & raised in potatoes.--These walls skirted by forrests of cemetery--the cyprus growing thick as firs in a Scotch plantation. Very old--a primal look--weird. The walls seem the inexorable bar between the mansions of the living & the dungeons of the dead. Outside the wall here is a Greek Church (for name see G.B.) Very beautiful, new upon an ancient site. (The miraculous fish here) Decorated with banners of the virgin &c. A beautiful cave chapel--a fountain of holy water--Greeks come here & wash & burn a candle. All round under the trees people smoking narguiles, drinking & eating, & riding. Gay crowds. Greek Sunday. Rode to the wall-end at Sea of Marmora. The water dashes up against the foundation here for 6 miles to the Seraglio. Went into the Seven Towers. 200 feet high. 2 overthrown. Immense thickness. Top of walls a soil & sod. Like walking on a terrace. Seven-sided enclosure towers at angles. Superb view of the city & sea. Dungeons--inscriptions.--Soldiers--A mosque. Immensely long ride back within the walls. Lonely streets. Passed under an arch of the acqueduct of Valens(?) In these lofty arches, ivied & weather beaten, & still grand the ghost of Rome seems to stride with disdain of the hovels of this part of Stamboul.--Overtopping houses & trees &c.--Recrossed the 2d bridge to Pera. Too late for the Dancing Dervishes. Saw their convent. Reminded me of the Shakers.--Went towards the cemeteries of Pera. Great resort in summer evenings. Bank of the Bosphorus--like Brooklyn heights. From one point a superb view of Sea of Marmora & Prince Isles & Scutari.--Armenian funerals winding through the streets. Coffin covered with flowers borne on a bier Wax candles borne on each side in daylight. Boys & men chanting alternately Striking effect, winding through the narrow lanes. -- Saw a burial. Armenian. Juggling & incantations of the priests-- making signs &c.--Nearby, saw a woman over a new grave--no grass on It yet. Such abandonment of misery! Called to the dead, put her head down as close to it as possible; as if calling down a hatchway or cellar; besought--"Why dont you speak to me? My God!--It is I! --Ah, speak--but one word!--All deaf.--So much for consolation.--This woman & her cries haunt me horribly. fl Street sights.--The beauty of the human countenance. Among the women ugly faces rare.--Singular these races so exceed ours in this respect. Out of every other window look faces (Jew, Greek, Armeman) which in England or America would be a cynosure in a ball room.--Wretched looking houses & filthy streets. Tokens of pauperism without the paupers. Out of old shanties peep lovely girls. like lillies & roses growing in cracked flower-pots. Very shy & coy looking. Many houses walled. Lower story no windows. Great gates like fortresses. Sign of barberism. Robbers. Lattices to Turkish houses--little windows. Confusion of the streets--no leading one. No clue. Hopelessly lost.--Immense loads carried by porters.--Camels, donkeys mules, horses. &c.--These Constople bridges exceed London bridges for picturesqueness. Contrast between London Bridge & these. Kayacks darting under the wooden arches. Spread about like swarm of ants, when their hill is invaded. On either side rows of Turkish craft of uniform build & heigth, stand like troops presenting arms. Mass of black English steamers. Guide boys on the bridge. Greeks. beautiful faces. Lively, loquacious. Never wearied leaning over the balustrade & talking with them.--Viewed from bridge, the great mosques are shown to be build most judiciously on the domed hills of the city. Fine effect. Seems a spreading, still further, of the tent.

    Monday Dec 15. Utterly used up last night. This morning felt as if broken on the wheel.--At eleven o clock went out without guide. Mounted the Genoese Tower. A prodigious structure. 60 feet in diameter. 200 or more high. Walls 12 feet thick. Stair in wall instead of at the tower's axis. Peculiar plan of the stairs. "Bakshesh." Terminates in a funnel-shaped affair, like a minaret. The highest loft nest of pigeons. From the gallery without, all round, another glorious view. (Three great views of Constople) All important to one desirous to learn something of the bearings of Pera &c. After much study succeeded in understanding the way to the two great bridges. Came down, & crossed the first bridge. There took a boy-guide to the bazar. (All the way from the G. Tower down steep hill to bridge, a steady stream of people) Immense crowds on the Constople side. Way led up steps into large court surrounding mosque. There clothes bazar. Most busy scene; all the way to the Bazar by this route-- crowds, crowds, crowds--From the Fez caps, the way seemed paved with tiles.--The Baazr is formed of countless narrow aisles, overarched; and along the sides looks like rows of show-cases, a sort of sofa-counter before them (where lady customers recline) and a man in each. Persian bazzarr, superb. Pawnbrokers here, money changers, fellows with a bushel or two of coins of all nations, handling there change like pedlers of nuts.--Rug merchants, (Angora wool) P. 10 for small one.--After dismissing my boy, was followed for two or three hours by an infernal Greek, & confederates. Dogged me; in & out & through the Bazaar. I could neither intimidate or elude them. Began to feel nervous; remembered that much of the fearful interest of Schiller's Ghost-seer hangs upon being followed in Venice by an Armenian. The mere mysterious, persistant, silent following. At last escaped them. Went to the Aga Janizzary's. Tower of Fire Watchman. An immense column of the Saracenic order. Colossal Saracens. Saw drill of Turk troops here. Disciplining the barbarians. --Looked at the burnt Column again. Base bedded in humus. It leans, is split & chipped & cracked. Of a smoky purple color. Is garlanded round with laurel (chissled) at distances. (Croton water pipes on end)--Street scenes. Gilded carriages of style of Hogarths carriages. Yellow boots daintily worn by the ladies in the mud-- Intricacy of the place. No way to get along the water-side--but by labryths of back lanes.--Strange books in the Mosque bazaar -- Englishman at dinner. Invited me to Buyakderre--give me a shake down &c. Said nothing would tempt him to go by night through Galata. Assassinations every night.--His cottage on Bosphorous attacked by robbers. &c.

    Tuesday Dec 16th At 8 1/2 A.M took steamer up the Bospherous to Buyukdereh.--Magnificent! The whole scene one pomp of art & Nature. Europe & Asia here show their best. A challenge of contrasts, where by the successively alternate sweeps of the shores both sides seem to retire from every new proffer of beauty, again in some grand prudery to advance with a bolder bid, and thereupon again & again retiring, neither willing to retreat from the contest of beauty.-- Myrtle, Cyprus, Cedar--evergreens.--Catch glimpse of Euxine from Buyakd The water clear as Ontario--the banks natural quays, shelving off like those of a canal. Large vessels go close along shore.--The palaces of the Sultan--the pleasure-houses--palaces of embassadors-- The white foam breaks on these white steps as on long lines of coral reefs. One peculiarity is the introduction of ocean into inland recesses. Ships anchor at the foot of ravines, deep among green basins where the only canvass you would look for would be tents--A gallery of ports & harbors, formed by the interchange of promontory & bay. Many parts like the Highlands of the Hudson, magnified. Porpoises sport in the blue; & large flights of pigeons overhead go through evolutions like those of armies. The sun shining on the palaces. View from the heights of Buuydereh. "Royal Albert" Euxine in sight from Buuyckdereh. A chain of Lake Georges. No wonder the Czars have always coveted the capital of the Sultans. No wonder the Russian among his firs sighs for these myrtles.--Cedar & Cyprus the only trees about the capital.--The Cyprus a green minaret, & blends with the stone ones. Minaret perhaps derived from cyprus shape. The intermingling of the dark tree with the bright spire expressive of the intermingling of life & death. --Holyday aspect of the Bospherous--The daisies are tipped with a crimson dawn, the very soil from they spring has a ruddy hue.-- Kiosks & fountains. One is amazed to see quite such a filigree, such delicate & fairy-like structures out of doors. One would think the elements would visit them too rudely; that they would melt away like castle of confectionery. Profuse sculpture & gilding & painting.-- The bays sweep round in great ampitheatres.--Coming back from Bospherous, stood on the First Bridge [[Curious to stand amid these millions of fellow beings, some of whom seem not unwilling to accept our civilization, but with one consent rejecting much of our morality & all of our religion.--Aspect of the Bridge like that of a Grand Fancy Ball. (An immense Persian Rug.) 1500000 men the actors. Banvard should paint a few hundred miles of this pageant of moving procession. Pedlers of all sorts & hawkers. Confectionery carried on head. A chain of malefactors with iron rings about their necks--Indian file. Porters immense burdens, brains doing the office of sinews. Others carrying burdens with poles, hands resting on each others shoulders. Military officers followed by running footmen. Ladies in yellow slippers. "Arabas." Horses, whose docility & gentleness is much as harmless as any other foot passengers. -- Taking toll on the bridge (Three or four men) Splendid barges of the Pashas darting under the arches. A gentleman followed by his Greek servants on horseback. An officer conversing with his confidential servant. A Black eunuch followed by white servants in great state. Sherbet sellers on bridge-side. An Arab wandering. Or a Georgian. The soldiers. The droves of sheep--shepherds marching in sheep clothing in advance. A file of loaded horses--sacks of flour. A drove of donkeys--everybody giving them a poke.--You hear names of Yusef, Hassan, Hamet (Arabian Nights) bandied on all sides. A Mosque at end of bridge. The Bazarr Mosque. Shaving heads in its court &c. Road to Bazarr leads through this court. Visited Mosque of Achmet (6 towers) Forecourt like a huge conservatory. 20 small cupolas or domes. A double gallery. A Verandah without, and a collonade within. A fountain in the middle. Columns of variously colored marbles & mosaic. Heaps of old traps, old capotes being cut up by beggars. bales, with marks. Pile of old hoops rusting. Pile of old haversacks and belts & spoons & kettles. [Grated windows look between the double galleries. Beautiful effect. Outside, under gallery, rows of penstocks, with stone footstool be- low, for worshippers to wash feet &c. Within, four vast pillars sup- ports to the dome, like towers (white marble) Most perfect specimen of the mosque. Regular square, inside. Small domes & half domes.-- In the "towers" are fountains. Birds perched among the chandeliers flying about

    Constantinople Tuesday, Dec 16 Wandered about in vicinity of Hippodrome till nearly dusk; lost myself, & finally came out at a gate on the Sea of Marmora. Returned to Tophanna by kayack. Interesting appearance of the walls here. Owing to the heighth of the shore above the sea, the fortifications here present a wall on the water side, but only a parapet on the land. Hence, from the sea, the houses look immensely lofty; they are of all shapes; in some parts their windows are formed by the open spaces of the battlements. In some parts, there are balconies. Several gates & archways are to be seen walled up. Collonades are disclosed closed up. Pilasters. The fall, or rather crumbling away of the wall at one angle discloses a solitary column of white marble, looking strange as the resurection of a body masoned up in a tomb. Reminded me of the Abbotsford walls--only, on a grand scale. Where huge masses of the masonry have fallen, they lie like rocks, in confused heaps, the mortar as hard as the tile & stone.--At dinner to day the French attache estimated the population of Constaple, suburbs, & banks of Bospherous at 1,500,000. A moderate estimate, judging from the swarms.--The fortress of Mamud II. on Bospherous built in the likeness of the Arabic letters of his name. Conveys an idea of his spirit. Plenty who with a flourish skate their names on ice, but few who solidly build them up in walls upon the enduring rocks. -- Extraordinary aspect of this fortress from the sea.

    Wednesday Dec 17 Spent the day revisiting the Seraglio &c.--Owing to its peculiar form St: Sophia viewed near to, looks as partly underground; as if you saw but the superstructure of some immense temple, yet to be disinterred. You step down to enter The dome has a kind of dented appearance, like crown of old hat. Must inevitably cave in one of these days. Within dome has appearance (from its flatness) of an immense sounding board. A firmament of masonry. It rests on 4 arches, two of which are blind. The others open. Seems to rest here on cobweb. (Massy buttresses.) (Entrance in them, like caves) The interior a positive appropriation of space. The precious marbles. of the interior. The worshipping--head prostration.--In the part of the town near Old Seraglio--silent appearance of the streets. Strange houses. Rows of quaint old sideboards, cupboards, beauforts, tall Nuremberg clocks. Lanes & allies of them. Seraglio. Many prohibited spots. The Seraglio (proper) seems to be a quadrangle, on the hill, where buildings present blank walls, buttressed, outside; but within open. Cyprus overpeer the walls in some parts. Grand view from Seraglio Point--Marmora, Bospherous, Scutari.----The courts & grounds of Seraglio have a strange, enchanted sort of look. (Silence of Seraglio as house of prayer.)--The dogs. roam about in bands like prarie wolves. No masters. No Turk seems to have a dog. None domesticated. Nomadic Against religion to kill them. Scavengers of the city. Terrible outcries at times. At night. Fighting of the dogs. Strange to come up on pack of them in some lonely lane. Mostly yellow, with long sharp noses. Some much scarred, others mangey. See them lying amidst refuse, hardly tell them from it.---Same color. See them over a dead horse on the beach.--Wandering about came across Black Hole in the street. Did not enter far.--Harem (sacred) on board steam boats. Lattice division. Ladies pale, straight noses, regular features, fine busts. Look like nuns in their plaine dress, but with a roundness of bust not be- longing to that character. Perfect decorum between sexes. No ogling. No pertness. No looking for admiration. No Cyprians. No drunkards. Saw not a single one, though liquor is sold.--Industry. --Beauty of fountain near St: Sophia. Gilding. Grapes & foliage.

    Thursday Dec 18 In morning took caique, & crossed the Bospherous to Scutari. Luxurious sailing. Cushioned like ottoman. You lie in the boat's bottom. Body beneath the surface. A boat bed. Kauck a sort of carved trencher or tray.--Fleet of fishermen at mouth of Golden Horn. Calm of water. Tide-rips. Sun shining on Sultan's Palaces. Sunrise opposite the Seraglio. As ConstanPle is finest site for capital so Seraglio for pleasure-grounds, in the world.--Great barracks at Scutari. Noble view of Constantinople & up Bospherous. Cemeteries like Black Forrest. Thuringian look. Roads passing through it. Beautiful daises. The quays. The water mosque. The hills & beach. General thoughts about Constaple. As for its mud, mere wet pollen of a flower.--Tenedos Wine on table--The Negro Mussleman. Unlike other dispersed nations (Jews, Armenians, Gypsies) who proof against proslytism adhere to the faith first delivered to their fathers. Negro is indifferent to forms as horse to caparisons. At 4. P. M sailed in steamer Acadia for Alexandria, via Smyrna. It was sunset ere we rounded Seraglio Point. Glorious sight. Scutari & its heights glowed like sapphire. Wonderful clearness of air. As a promontory is covered with trees, terraced up clear to its top, so Consatople with houses. Long line of walls.--Out into Sea of Marmora.

    Friday Dec 19 Passed through Dardenells at daybreak. Showers of rain. Cleared off. Passed Plain of Troy. Mount Ida beyond. Passed The Tumuli of Achilles &c. Steered in between Tenedos & the main. Passed a town & harbor of Tenedos; a promontory in the midst of the harbor covered with massive fortifications,--the work of the old Genoese. Passed Cape Baba crowned with a fort protecting a town on high land. The Asiatic coast all along lofty with ranges of mountains in the background -- a yellow look. Steered in between Mytelene & the main. A large & lovely island, covered with olive trees. They make much wine. The whole island green from beach to hill-top--a dark rich bronzy green, in marked contrast with the yellow & parched aspect of most other isles of the Archipelago.-- Asia looks in color like those Asiatic lions one sees in menageries-- lazy & torpid.--Many beautiful hamlets seen on Mytelene. It has one fine landlocked harbor in the middle of the isle. Near sunset came to anchor for the night in a little bay of Mytelene, so as to have the benefit of daylight for getting into Smyrna, a tickelish harbor. Sent a boat off to get soundings. A boat came from shore; bought olives & figs. According to a chart of "Mouth of Dardenelles & Plain of Troy" in the Captain's posession, I see that the whole coast hereabouts & for some ways inland is covered with ruins of great antiquity. [Sailed through Besika Bay partly sheltered by Isle Tenedos, where the E & F fleets first joined in 1853]

    Saturday Dec 20. At two in the morning up anchor at Mytelene, and by daylight were entering the bay of Smyrna. A very spacious one, thirty miles deep & 7 or 8 wide, with villages nestling in the hill sides, and lofty mountains all round. The town is at the end of the bay, and where for a little it stretches along a declivity, it looks, from the lowness of the houses, their flat roofs red-tiled like a feild of broken potterey. On Mount Pagus behind the town is an old castle, conspicuous from the sea.--Met the steamer Egyptian in port; saw Cap. Tate. A steamer grounded & one towing her off. Went ashore & called up American Consul, a Greek. Spent an hour conversing with him & his brother. Got a guide (a grave ceremonious man with a frogged coat carrying a silver mounted sword in a velvet scabbard in one hand, and a heavy silver mounted cowhide in the other) and went to Bazarr, to see the slaves. Failed. Went up Mt Pagus. A large circuit. The interior strewn over with fragments of stones, looking like a barren moor. Commands a supurb view of bay & town of Smyrna. An old ruinous mosque within. A Boston name written there. Descended, & went to the Caravan Bridge, a great resort on holydays, and country gate of the town. Here passed a constant succession of trains of camels, horses, mules, & donkeys. Sometimes a horse leading a camel-train, sometimes a donkey, sometimes a donkey also following. Horsemen with arms. Buffalo.--The camel a most ungainly creature From his long curved and crain-like neck, (which he carries stiffly like a clergyman in a stiff caravat) his feathery-looking forelegs, & his long lank hind ones, he seems a cross between an ostrich & a gigantic grasshopper. His hoof is spongey, & covered with hair to the ground, so that walking through these muddy lanes, he seems stalking along on four mops. Carries his neck out like a tortoise. Tail like long eel, driver holds it & steers him. Has a way of turning his head so that his face & tail face you together. Camel seems built by nature with special precautions against man's use. The hump in way of saddle, but man outwits nature here. [A sort of saw-buck --Swaying of the rider--heigth. [Motion increases as on mast of ship. [Camel dung like pancakes stuck against houses, to dry. Loads of them on women's heads. Coals. --The cemeteries very interesting, broken columns & capitals of great antiquity strewn among the broken tomb-stones; sometimes a dilapidated tomb-stone is seen composed of an old column--a double ruin. Cyprus very high & pillar-like.

    Sunday Dec 21 Called with Captain Tate upon his Agent, living in a handsome house upon the Marina. Married to a Greek lady, with a child that speaks as yet only Greek, her father a Scotchman. With reference to the American Mission here the Agent said it was about discontinued; a hopeless affair; all the converts made, mercenary ones. Attended chapel at the English Consulate. Very flat affair, the chaplain, however, a curiosity.--There dined to day on board "Arcadia" C. Orpheus, C Tate, C. Eustace & self. Much talk of India voyages .

    Monday Dec 22 Went ashore in the morning, interested in the curious appearance of strings of loaded camels passing through the narrow and crowded covered ways of the Bazaar. Heard a good deal about the commerce of England with Turkey. The Turkish manufactures almost at an end. The people of Manchester imitate exactly every fabric in the world. Cotton & silk imported from Turkey & returned in the form of Turkish manufactures, being retailed in the Bazars as such, & as such articles are sometimes taken home as curiosities to England & America by travelers. Copper is found in Turkey & quanities are sent to England to be made into coin for the Sultan The English manufacturers alloy it, & return a base metal for the pure, charging for the process. In the "Egyptian" there were several casks of unstamped copper coin for ConstanPle.--Altho' it was a little rainy the morning of our arrival here, yet ever since, the weather has been very beautiful, like fine Spring days at home.--This evening an odd affair between C Orpheus & his first officer, to which I was an unavoidable listener.

    Tuesday Dec 23d Expect to sail to day for Syra, so did not go ashore. Two passengers came off to day, one a Greek officer, a comical looking fellow. --Got under weigh for Syra about 3. P.M. Fine sail down the bay. Came on blowing a gale outside, but by morning pleasant weather. Strong winds of short continuance here. Approached Syra by Myconi Passage between the islands of Myconi & Tinos. Many other isles scattered about. Among others, Delos, of a most barren aspect, however flowery in fable. I heard it was peculiarly sterile. Patmos, too, not remote; another disenchanting isle. Tinos is a large island, with numerous small hamlets (60 of them I was told) no trees, but they cultivate the grape. Each little village has its little church. They are Catholics on Tinos, wholly agricultural people. Said to be 365 isles in the Archipelogoe, one for every day in the year. Entering Syra harbor, I was again struck by the appearance of the town on the hill. The houses seemed clinging round its top, as if desperate for security, like shipwrecked men about a rock beaten by billows. A Greek on board tells me that, escaped from the massacres of Scio & Mytelene, certain Greeks escaped here in 1821, & founded the town. Syra is the most considerable place in the Archipelago, &, for commerce, perhaps in all Greece. Came to anchor at 12.M. Put us in quarantine for 24 hours (to begin from time of leaving Smyrna) tho' no case of illness on board. C. storms at the nuisance.

    Wednesday, Dec 24th Included in preceding day.

    Thursday Dec 25 Christmas. To day appears to be no holy day among the Greeks. Or theirs is the old style of almanack; people are so busy here I can not learn which.--Went ashore to renew my impressions of the previous visit. The Greek, of any class, seems a natural dandy. His dress, though a laborer, is that of a gentleman of leisure. This flowing & graceful costume, with so much of pure ornament about it & so little fitted for labor, must needs have been devised in some Golden Age. But surviving in the present, is most picturesquely out of keeping with the utilities.--Some of the poorest sort present curious examples of what may be called the decayed picturesque. The Greeks have a great partiality for the tassel. This seems emblematic. You see one going about the quay displaying in every tempting mode, a long graceful tassel,--holding it up admiringly.--On the Custom House quay lie bales of tobacco, jars of oil, and what you would call rows of dead goats, but which prove to be goat skins, filled, not with the flesh of goats, but the blood of the grape.--In the cafes, much card playing, all through the day. Syra is the depot for the Archipelago. They export, sponges, raisins, tobacco, fruit, olive oil &c. Their imports are hardware, & cloths, all from England. They have quite a ship-yard here. Two Greek men-of-war lie here, little fellows, yawls-of-war one might call them.--One motive for building the old town on the hill was fear of pirates, & as a defence from them as well as the Turks. After things became more favorable, they descended, & built the new town along the water.--In the afternoon some Greek ladies came off, passengers for Alexandria. At five P. M. got under weigh--Farewell to Syra and the Greeks, & away for Egypt & the Arabs.

    Friday Dec 26. Last night, the Captain mildly celebrated the day with a glass of Champagne.--Contrast between the Greek isles & those of the Polynesan archipelago. The former have lost their virginity. The latter are fresh as at their first creation. The former look worn, and are meagre, like life after enthusiasm is gone. The aspect of all of them is sterile & dry. Even Delos whose flowers rose by miracle m the sea, is now a barren moor, & to look upon the bleak yellow of Patmos, who would ever think that a god had been there.--No shoals in the Archiplago; you may sail close to any of the isles, which makes easy navigation. Many of islands composed of pure white marble. Islanders retain expression of ancient statues.--This morning was invited by Chief Engineer to inspect his department. The furnaces were a fearful scene. A hell in the hull. All day a head wind & bad sea. Passengers mostly laid up. The Greeks invisable. [Passed pretty close to Scarpanti,--rugged & barren--Rhodes in sight.]

    Saturday Dec 27. Sea gone down with the wind. Towards noon fine weather, transparent air & a Syrian sun, rather scortching to the cheek. Expect to reach Alexandia tomorrow early. Saw in "Sailing Directions" brief account of Jaffa. Oldest sea port in the world (some say it was a port before Noah) rocks & sands, barren & dreary look.--

    Sunday Dec 28 At early morning came in sight of Alexandria Light house, and shortly after, saw Pompey's Pillar. Landed at 10. AM. Donkey to hotel, near which garden of the date palm. Pompey's pillar looks like huge stick of candy after having been long sucked. Cleopatra's Needles--one of them down & covered over. Rode along banks of Canal of Mahmoud, and to Garden of the Pasha.

    Monday Dec 29th Called at Consul's for my passport. Mr De Leon formerly political literary man at Washington. Met officers of U. S. F. Constellation Went to the Catacombs on the sea.

    Tuesday Dec 30. To Cairo, arrived there at 4 P.M. put up at Shepherd's. Walked about the square with Dr Lockwood.

    Wednesday Dec 31. To the Pyramids; through the town to the Citadel & back to Shepherd's at night fall.--Never shall forget this day. It racks me, that I can only spend one day in Cairo, owing to steamer.

    Thursday Jan 1st 1857. From Cairo to Alexandia. Put up at Victoria Hotel.

    Friday Jan 2d Expected to have sailed to day for Jaffa. But steamer not arrived. Spent day reading a book on Palestine.

    Saturday Jan 3d Steamer for Jaffa will not sail till tomorrow, so that I am wearied to death with two days in Alexandria which might have been delightfully spent in Cairo. But travellers must expect these things.--I will now without any order jot down my impressions of Cairo, ere they grow dim.--It seems one booth and Bartholomew Fair--a grand masquerade of mortality.--Several of the thorough-fare covered at vast heigth with old planks & matting, so that the street has the light of a closed verandah. In one case this matting extends from mosque to mosque, where they are opposite. The houses seem a collection of old orchestras, organs, proscenium boxes,--or like masses of old furniture (grotesque) lumbering a garret & covered with dust. Lattice-work of the projecting windows. With little square hole, just large enough to contain the head. Curious aspect of women's faces peeping out. Most of the house built of stone of a brownish white. Some of the streets of private houses are like tunnels from meeting overhead of projecting windows &c. Like night at noon. Sometimes high blank walls--mysterious passages, --dim peeps at courts & wells in shadow. [Streets leading through arch of abandoned mosque. [The gates dividing one part of town from another. Jew Quarters] Great number of uninhabited houses in the lonelier parts of the city. Their dusty, cadaverous ogerish look. Ghostly, & suggestive of all that is weird. Haunted houses & Cock Lanes. Ruined mosques, domes knocked in like stoven boats. Others, upper part empty & desolate with broken rafters & dismantled windows; (rubbish) below, the dirty rites of religion. Aspect of the thoroughfares like London streets on Saturday night. All the world gossipping & marketing, --but in picturesque costumes. Crookedness of the streets--multitudes of blind men--worst city in the world for them. [Flies on the eyes at noon. Nature feeding on man. Contiguity of desert & verdure, splendor & squalor, gloom & gayety; numerous blind men going about led. Children opthalmick. Too much light & no defence against it.--Animated appearance of the population. Turks in carriages, with Osmanli drivers & footmen sitting back proudly & gazing round on the people still with the air of conquerors. Footmen running ahead with silver tipped bamboos. Rapid driving, shouts of the driver. Camels carrying water in panniers of leather, carrying straw in bags--donkey loads of green grass,--of stones--of pottery--of garden stuff--of chickens in wicker panniers--of babies in panniers--Long strings of them. Turk on donkey, resting his pipe vertically before him on pommel. Grave & tranquil.--The antiquity of Egypt stamped upon individuals. [Streets great place for studying the beard.--Appearance of the women. Thing for the face. Black crape hanging like trunk of elephant. Profusion of jewelry. Brass on face. Staining the eyes (black) & finger nails. (yellow)--Some in fine silks & on donkeys.

    . Built by Saladin. Cairo nipped between two deserts--the one leading to Suez & the Red Sea, the other the Lybian Desert.--Dust colored city. The dust of ages. The Nile--the green --desert--pyramids. Minarets unlike those of ConstanPle which gleam like lighthouses,--but of an ashy color, and wonderfully venerable. Citadel perched on solid rock. Within, wall of decayed fortresses. You stand at base of forecourt of Mosque to get the view, looking sheer down some 200 feet on tops of deserted houses, to immense square full of people, and near the spot where the Memlook saved himself by leaping his horse. Mosque (new) splendid court & collonade. Within, green & gold. Square, with four half-domes. Superb pillars. Alabaster. Could make brooches of them. Mosque of Hassan on the square below citadel. Finest in Cairo.

    . Scamper to them with officers on donkeys. Rapid passing of crowds upon the road; following of the donkey-boys &c. [In hey-day holyday spirits arrived at the eternal sorrows of the pyramids. Cross Nile in boats. Isle Roda, pavilions & kiosks & gardens. Donkeys crossing, rapid current, muddy banks. Pyramids from distance purple like mountains. Seem high & pointed, but flatten & depress as you approach. Vapors below summits. Kites sweeping & soaring around, hovering right over apex. At angles, like broken cliffs. Table-rock overhanging, adhering solely by morter. Sidelong look when midway up. Pyramids on a great ridge of sand. You leave the angle, and ascend hillock of sand & ashes & broken morter & pottery to a point, & then go along a ledge to a path &c. Zig-zag routes. As many routes as to cross the Alps--The Simplon, Great St: Bernard &c. Mules on Andes. Caves--platforms. Looks larger midway than from top or bottom. Precipice on precipice, cliff on cliff. Nothing in Nature gives such an idea of vastness. A balloon to ascend them. View of persons ascending, Arab guides in flowing white mantles. Conducted as by angels up to heaven. Guides so tender. Resting. Pain in the chest. Exhaustion. Must hurry. None but the phlegmatic go deliberately. Old man with the spirits of youth--long looked for this chance--tried the ascent, half way--fainted--brought down. Tried to go into the interior--fainted--brought out--leaned against the pyramid by the entrance--pale as death. Nothing so pathetic. Too much for him; oppressed by the massiveness & mystery of the pyramids. I myself too. A feeling of awe & terror came over me. Dread of the Arabs. Offering to lead me into a side-hole. The Dust. Long arched way,--then down as in a coal shaft. [At one moment seeming in the Mammoth Cave. [Subterranean gorges, &c. Then as in mines, under the sea. The stooping & doubling. I shudder at idea of ancient Egyptians. It was in these pyramids that was conceived the idea of Jehovah. Terrible mixture of the cunning and awful. Moses learned in all the lore of the Egyptians. The idea of Jehovah born here.--[When I was at top, thought it not so high--sat down on edge, looked below--gradual nervousness & final giddiness & terror. [Entrance of pyramids like shoot for coal or timber. Horrible place for assassination. As long as earth endures some vestige will remain of the pyramids. Nought but earthquake or geological revolution can obliterate them. Only people who made their mark, both in their masonry & their religion (through Moses) [Color of pyramids same as desert. Some of the stone (but few) friable; most of them hard as ever. The climate favors them. Pyramids not in line. Between, like Notch of White Mountains. No vestige of moss upon them. Not the least. Other ruins ivied. Dry as tinder. No speck of green Arabs climb them like goats, or any other animal. Down one & up the other. Pyramids still loom before me--something vast, indefinite, incomprehensible, and awful. These the steps Jacob lay at. Line of desert & verdure, plain as line between good & evil. An instant collision of the two elements. A long billow of desert forever hovers as in act of breaking, upon the verdure of Egypt. Grass near the pyramids, but will not touch them--as if in fear or awe of them. Desert more fearful to look at than ocean. Theory of design of pyramids. Defence against desert. A Line of them. Absurd. Might have been created with the creation. The Sphynx. back to desert & face to verdure. Solid rock.--You ride through palms to the pyramids. You are carried across the mire &c by Arabs. The two black Shieks in black robes. The ride to the pyramids. Passed succession of sub- urbs & villages--high walls with date palms behind or heavy vines overhanging the walls. Across bridges, the party condensing & then expanding in disorderly dispersion. The acqueduct. The gates. Passed groves of palms, like temple of 1001 columns. [Beauty of the suburbs of Cairo. Long avenues of acacais, locusts &c

    . Processions of people.

    . Magnitude of Shepherds, lofty ceilings, stone floors, iron beds, no carpets, thin mattress, no feathers, blinds, moscho curtain. --All showing the tropics. And that you are in the East is shown by fresh dates on table for desert, water in stone jars--(cool) waited on by Arabs--dragomen--clap your hands for servants.--Brilliant scene at late dinner--hard to beleive you are near the pyramids. Yet some repose in fastidiousness.

    --. Upon entering Cairo, saw the cres- cent & star--arms of Sultan in the sky. Large extent of square. Canal about it. Lower level than walks around. Avenues of acacas & other trees. Shrubs. Seems country. No fences. The booths & cafes. Leapers, tumblers, jugglers, smokers, dancers, horses, swings, (with bells) sherbert, &c. Lovely at evening. In morning, golden sun through foliage. Soft luxurious splendor of mornings Dewy. Paridise melted & poured into the air. Soft intoxication; no wonder these people never drink wine. Wondered at the men in hotel drinking it here.

    . Wonderful endurance of both. Runs like deer (the boy). stick in hand, barefooted & barelegged. pounds the donkey, talks to him, remonstrates, advises. Donkey says nothing. [See Constantinople] Every one pushes him. Donkey is one of the best fellows in the world. It is the patience & honesty of the donkey that makes him so abused & despised. He is so useful & indispensable, that he is contemned. He is so unresisting. Tipe of honesty. &c. As for his bray, that is the original Egyptian. Run about like rats. Their saddles very curious. High balled pommel. Thrown by donkeys. A great love for them. Hacks. [Climate of Egypt in winter is the reign of spring upon earth, & summer in the air, and tranquility in the heat. . The Delta. Like Mohawk Flats in spring. Soil like moist pulverised manure. Seems spaded over. Barn- yard. 4 crops a year. Sugar, wheat, cotton.--Villages of unbaked brick. Wasps nests & mud pies. beaver-dams. Pigeon houses, on dwellings. roofs covered with piles of husks & straw.--[No fences.] Cattle tethered in lines & eat clean on straight march. Buffalo, camel, donkey. Palms. Villages like sand banks at distance. Approaching Cairo long avenues (raised above level) processions of people, crossing & recrossing at long distances. Encampment of troops, white soldiers. Cavalry in long strings. Canal. boats, latteen (long) yard like well sweep. Canal flowing between sand-hills. Canal in ditch of R. R. irrigation. Dipping & machines. 3d class passengers. On top of cars. Noise & confusion of troops. Extra roof to cars. Turk squatting in baggage car on rug with his pipe. 2d class passengers. Turk & Egyptian. Jingle of scimitars & flash of silks. Smoking. Cross the Nile. Machines From the car (1st class) you seem in England. All else Egypt. Seems unreal & a panorama, beginning with Pompey's Pillar & ending with Cheops.

    . Seems M'adamed with the pulverised ruins of thousand cities. Every shovel full of earth dug over. The soil, deep loam, looks historical. The Grand Square. Lively aspect. Arabs looking in at windows. The sea is the principal point. Catacombs by it. R. R. extension driven right through. Acres. Wonderful appearance of the sea at noon. Sea & sky molten into each other. Pompey's Pillar like long stick of candy, well sucked. Cleopatras needles close by hovels. One down & covered. Sighing of the wave. Cries of watchmen at night. Lanterns. Assassins. Sun strokes.

    . The lines of stone do not seem like courses of masonry but like strata of rocks. The long slope of crags & precipices. The vast plane. No wall, no roof. In other buildings, however vast, the eye is gradually innured to the sense of magnitude, by passing from part to part. But here there is no stay or stage. It is all or nothing. It is not the sense of heigth but the sense of immensity, that is stirred. After seeing the pyramid, all other architecture seems but pastry. Though I had but so short a time to view the pyramid, yet I doubt whether any time spent upon it, would tend to a more precise impression of it. As with the ocean, you learn as much of its vastness by the first five minutes glance as you would in a month, so with the pyramid. Its simplicity confounds you. Finding it vain to take in its vastness man has taken to sounding it & weighing its density; so with the pyramid, he measures the base, & computes the size of individual stones. It refuses to be studied or adequately comprehended. It still looms in my imagination, dim & indefinite. The tearing away of the casing, though it removed enough stone to build a walled-town, has not one whit subtracted from the apparent magnitude of the pyramid. It has had just the contrary effect. When the pyramid presented a smooth plane, It must have lost as much in impressiveness as the ocean does when unfurrowed. A dead calm of masonry. But now the ridges magestically diversyfy it. It has been said in panegyric of some extraordinary works of man, that they affect the imagination like the works of Nature. But the pyramid affects one in neither way exactly. Man seems to have had as little to do with it as Nature. It was that supernatural creature, the priest. They must needs have been terrible inventors, those Egyptian wise men. And one seems to see that as out of the crude forms of the natural earth they could evoke by art the transcendent mass & symmetry & unity of the pyramid so out of the rude elements of the insignificant thoughts that are in all men, they could rear the transcendent conception of a God. But for no holy purpose was the pyramid founded.

    January 4th 1857. Sailed from Alexandria for Jaffa. 2d class passage. Many deck passengers Turks &c.

    Jan 5th, Fine day & warm. On deck all the time.

    Jan 6th. Early in the morning came in sight of Jaffa. A swell rolling, and saw the breakers before the town. Landed, not without some danger,--boatmen (Arabs) trying to play upon my supposed fears. Cunning dogs!--Employed a Jew dragoman to take me to Jerusalem. -- Crossed the plain of Sharon in sight of mountains of Ephraim. Arrived at Ramla & put up at alleged (hotel). At supper over broken crockery & cold meat, pestered by moschits & fleas, dragoman said, "Dese Arab no know how to keep hotel" I fully assented. After horrible night, at 2 in the morning in saddle for Jerusalem. The three shadows stalking on the plain by moonlight. Moon set, all dark. At day-break found ourselves just entering the mountains. Pale olive of morning. Withered & desert country. Breakfast by ruined mosque--Cave. Hot & wearisome ride over the arid hills.-- Got to Jerusalem about 2 P.M. Put up at Meditterranean hotel. Kept by a German converted Jew, by name, . Hotel overlooks on one side Pool of Hezekiah (balconies) is near the Coptic Convent, is on the Street called Street of the Patriarchs leading out of Street of David. From platform in front of my chamber, command view of battered dome of Church of Sepulchre & Mount Olivet. Opposite house is open space, ruin of old Latin Convent, destroyed by some enemy centuries ago & never since rebuilt. Landlord pointed out the damaged dome, as beginning of the war with Russia. Still in same state as then. Walked out to the North of the city, but my eyes so affected by the long days ride in the glare of the light of arid hills, had to come back to hotel.

    Jan 7th All day with dragoman roaming over the hills.

    Jan 8th The same.

    Jan 9th, Thought I should have been the only stranger in Jerusalem, but this afternoon came over from Jaffa, a Mr Frederick Cunningham of Boston, a very prepossessing young man who seemed rejoiced to meet a companion & countryman.

    Jan 10th (Some mistake in my dates, but which I cant now rectify.) Spent the remaining days till Jan. 18th in roaming about city & visiting jordan & Dead Sea.

    Jan 19th. Quitted Jerusalem with Mr Cunningham & his dragoman --The Druse, Abdallah--Stayed at Greek convent at Ramlah. No sleep. Old monk like rat. Scurvy treatment. Letter from Greek Patriarch. Countess staying there.--Before going to convent visited the ruined mosque(?) & tower of Ramlah. A curious sight.

    Jan 20th Rode from Ramlah to Lydda. A robbery of a village near by, by party of Arabs, alarms the whole country. People travel in bands. We rode to Lydda in train of the Governor's son. A mounted escort of some 30 men, all armed. Fine riding. Musket-shooting. Curvetting & caracoling of the horsemen. Outriders. Horsemen riding to one side, scorning the perils. Riding up to hedges of cactus, interrogating & firing their pistols into them. Entering Lydda, Governor's son discharged all his barrel (Revolver) into a puddle--& we went to see the ruined church of Lydda. Evidently of the time of the Crusaders. A delightful ride across Plain of Sharon to Jaffa. Quanities of red poppies. (Rose of Sharon?) Found the Petra Party at Jaffa. In the afternoon had a bath in the Meditterranean. Inspected some old ruins of walls, by & in, the sea.

    Jan 22d Mr Cunningham & the Petra party left this afternoon in the French steamer for Alexandria. Very rough getting off. After their departure, returned to the place called "The hotel", and ascended to the top of the house--the only promenade in the town.--Jaffa is situated upon a hill rising steeply from the sea, & sloping away inland towards the Plain of Sharon. It is walled & garrisoned. The houses,. old, dark, arched & vaulted, and of stone. The house I sojourn in crowns the summit of the hill, & is the highest from the ground of any. From the top of it, I see the Meditterranean, the Plain, the mountainS of Ephraim. A lovely landscape. To the North the nearest spot is Beyroot; to the South, Gaza--that Philistine city the gates of which Sampson shouldered.--I am the only traveller sojourning in Joppa. I am emphatically alone, & begin to feel like Jonah. The wind is rising, the swell of the sea increasing, & dashing in breakers upon the reef of rocks within a biscuit's toss of the sea-wall. The surf shows a great sheet of yeast along the beach--N & S, far as eye can reach.

    Jan 23d Could not sleep last night for the fleas. Rose early & to top of the house. The wind & sea still high. No boat could get off in this weather. Wrote in this diary (Jerusalem) to day. In the afternoon called upon Mr & Mrs Saunders, outside the wall, the American Missionary.--Dismal story of their experiments. Might as well attempt to convert bricks into bride-cake as the Orientals into Christians. It is against the will of God that the East should be Christianized. Mrs S, an interesting woman, not without beauty, and of the heroine stamp, or desires to be. A book lying on her table, entitled "Book of Female Heroines, " I took to be the exponent of her aspirations. She talked to me, alone, for two hours; I doing nothing but listen. Mr S. came in. A man feeble by Nature, & feebler by sickness; but worthy. A Seventh Day Baptist----God help him! A Miss Williams, an elderly English woman, a kind of religious teacher, joined us in a walk through the orange groves.

    Jan 24th No sleep last night--only resource to cut tobacco, & watch the six windows of my room, which is like a light-house--& hear the surf & wind. The genuine Jonah feeling, in Joppa too, is worth experiencing in the same sense that, according to Byron, the murderer sensation were worth a trial.--Joppa is certainly antidiluvian --a port before the Flood. It has no antiquities worth speaking of-- It is too ancient. Yet I have been to the alleged house of Simon the Tanner--"by the sea" & with a well. It is now the site of a mosque & shrine. I have such a feeling in this lonely old Joppa, with the prospect of a prolonged detention here, owing to the surf--that it is only by stern self-control & grim defiance that I contrive to keep cool & patient.--The main beam crossing my chamber overhead, is evidently taken from a wreck--the trenail holes proving it. In the right lintel of the door is a vial masoned in, & visable, containing some text of Jewish scripture---a charm. The keeper of the place is a Jew. All of which provides the old--genuine, old Jonah feeling.

    Jan 25th [Friday] Thank God got some sleep last night. Wind & sea subsided. Lovely day, but wet underfoot. The showers yesterday toward evening were like our June showers.--Walked on top of the house. Read Dumas's "Diamond Necklace"--Excellent, Cagliostro's talk in opening chapter.--Walked out & looked at rocks before town. After dinner went with Mr Saunders to Mr Dickson's.

    Jan 26th (Saturday) --Bravo!--This moment, sitting down to jot awhile, hear that the Austrian steamer is in sight, & going to the window, behold her. Thus then will end nearly six days in Joppa.--This morning very clear, & from the house-top I think I see Leabanon--M' Hermon, it may be--for its summit is covered with snow.--11. A.M. Just returned from stroll. Steamer drawing nigh. Was again pleased with the queer school kept in chicken-coop under dim arches nigh Gate. Old Turk schoolmaster, smoking away solemn as ever. ~(Jonah's pier)--Took boat & rowed off to rocks off harbor. They bear no appearance, as some affirm, of being ruins of an ancient pier, or any ruins of any work of art. It is the remnant of a rocky ledge, worn away into seeming ruins of old piers, by continual wear of the sea. At a little distance, the rock looks to be mere dirt- heaps, being of same color. But in fact are excessively hard & tough. Some look igneous. While by the water saw men emptying sacks of rubbish into the harbor, such as it is. Vastly improving, this. -- Amused with the autographs & confessions of people who have stayed at this hotel. "I have existed at this hotel &c &c". Something comical could be made out of all this. Let the confessions being of a religious, penitential resigned & ambiguous turn, apparently flatter- mg to the host, but really derogatory to the place.--Bright sun & sea. You seem to look through a vaccum at every thing. The sea is like a great daub of Prussian Blue.

    From Jerusalem to Dead Sea &c

    Over Olivet by St: Stephens Gate to Bethany--on a hill--wretch- ed Arab village--fine view--Tomb of Lazarus, a mere cave or cell --On down into vallies & over hills--all barren--Brook Kedron --immense depth--black & funereal--Valley of Jehosophat, grows more diabolical as approaches Dead Sea--Plain of Jericho-- looks green, an orchard, but only trees of apple of Sodom--P. of J. corresponds to P. of S. on other side of mountains. Mount of Temptation--a black, arid mount--nought to be seen but Dead Sea, mouth of Kedron--very tempting--foolish feind--but it was a display in vision--then why take him up to Mount?--the thing itself was in vision. --Where Kedron opens into Plain of Jericho looks like Gate of Hell.--Tower with sheiks smoking & huts on top--thick walls--village of Jericho--ruins on hill-side --tent--fine dinner--jolly time--sitting at door of tent looking at mountains of Moab.--tent the charmed circle, keeping off the curse. Marsada.--Rain at night--Thunder in mountains of Moab --Lightning--cry of jackall & wolf.--Broke up camp--rain-- wet--rode out on mouldy plain--nought grows but wiry, prickly bush--muddy--every creature in human form seen ahead--escort alarmed & galloped on to learn something--salutes--every man understands it--shows native dignity--worthy of salute--Arabs on hills over Jordan--alarm--scampering ahead of escort--after rain, turbid & yellow stream--foliaged banks--beyond, arid hills.--Arabs crossing the river--lance--old crusaders--pistols --menacing cries--tobacco.--Robbers--rob Jericho annually-- &c--Ride over mouldy plain to Dead Sea--Mountains on tother side--Lake George--all but verdure.--foam on beach & pebbles like slaver of mad dog--smarting bitter of the water,--carried the bitter in my mouth all day--bitterness of life--thought of all bitter things--Bitter is it to be poor & bitter, to be reviled, & Oh bitter are these waters of Death, thought I.--Rainbow over Dead Sea--heaven, after all, has no malice against it.--Old boughs tossed up by water--relics of pick-nick--nought to eat but bitumen & ashes with desert of Sodom apples washed down with water of Dead Sea. Must bring your own provisions, as well, too, for mind as body--for all is barren. Drank of brook, but brackish.-- Ascended among the mountains again--barren.

    Barrenness of Judea

    Whitish mildew pervading whole tracts of landscape--bleached-- leprosy--encrustation of curses--old cheese--bones of rocks,-- crunched, knawed, & mumbled--mere refuse & rubbish of creation --like that laying outside of Jaffa Gate--all Judea seems to have been accumulations of this rubbish. So rubbishy, that no chiffonier could find any thing all over it.----You see the anatomy--compares with ordinary regions as skeleton with living & rosy man.--No moss as in other ruins--no grace of decay--no ivy--The unleavened nakedness of desolation--whitish ashes--lime-kilns Crossed elevated plains, with snails, that tracks of slime, all over-- shut in by ashy hills--wretched sheep & black goats. --Arab- Bedouin encampment in hollow of high hills--oval--like two rows of hearses--Brook Kedron--two branches--St. Saba--zig-zag along Kedron, sepulchral ravine, smoked as by fire, caves & cells-- immense depth--all rock--enigma of the depth--rain only two or 3 days a year--wall of stone on ravine edge--Monastery (Greek) rode on with letter--hauled up in basket into hole--small door of massive iron in high wall--knocking--opened--salaam of monks --Place for pilgrims--divans--St Saba wine--"racka"--comfortable.--At dusk went down by many stone steps & through mysterious passages to cave & trap doors & hole in wall--ladder-- ledge after ledge--winding--to bottom of Brook Kedron--sides of ravine all caves of recluses--Monastery a congregation of stone eyries, enclosed with wall--Good bed & night's rest--Went into chapel &c--little hermitages in rock--balustrade of iron--lonely monks. black-birds--feeding with bread--numerous terraces, balconies--solitary Date Palm mid-way in precipice Good bye-- Over lofty hills to Bethalem.--on a hill--old chapel of Helena-- (Passed over Bethalem hills--where shepherds were watching their flocks, (as of old) but a Moslem with back to Jerusalem (face to Mecca) praying.--In chapel, monk (Latin) took us down into cave after cave,--tomb of saints--lights burning (with olive oil) till came to place of Nativity (many lamps) & manger with lights. View from roof of chapel &c.--Ride to Jerusalem--pressing forward to save the rain.--On way to Bethelam saw Jerusalem from distance-- unless knew it, could not have recognized it--looked exactly like arid rocks.

    Jerusalem

    --houses facing the wall--Zion. Their park, a dung-heap.--They sit by the gates asking alms,--their whine-- avoidance of them & horror. --Jehosophat--Hinnom &c. --women panting under burdens--me with melancholy faces. --till I began to think myself one of the possessed with devels. --with stairs like pulpit &c. "Multitudes, Multitudes" ill the Valley of Hinnom. (tradition authorized by scripture) Stones about Absalom's tomb--grave-stones about Zachariah's. . Broken dome--Anointing stone lamps-- dingy,--queer smell--irregular--caves--grots--Chapel of Finding of the Cross. Pilgrims--chatting--poor--resting Armenian Convent--Large--pilgrims. Hill-side view of Zion--loose stones & gravel as if shot down from carts

    [The mind can not but be sadly & suggestively affected with the indifference of Nature & Man to all that makes the spot sacred to the Christian. Weeds grow upon Mount Zion; side by side in impartial equality appear the shadows of church & mosque, and on Olivet every morning the sun indifferently ascends over the Chapel of the Ascension.

    [The South East angle of wall. Mosque of Omar-- Solomon's Temple. Here the wall of Omar rises upon the foundation stones of Solomon, triumphing over that which sustains it, an emblem of the Moslem religion, which at once spurns that deeper faith which fathered it & preceded it. &c.

    [How it affects one to be cheated in Jerusalem.

    [The old Connecticut man wandering about with tracts &c--knew not the language--hopelessness of it--his lonely batchelor rooms --he maintained that the expression "Oh Jerusalem!" was an argument proving that Jerusalem was a byeword &c.

    [Warder Crisson of Philadelphia--An American turned Jew--divorced from former wife--married a Jewess &c--Sad. [The strange arches, cisterns, &c you come upon about Jerusalem-- every day discovered something new in this way.

    [Siloam--pool, hill, village. (Here, at narrow gorge begins Vale of Kedron &c. Village, occupying the successive terraces of tombs excavated in the perpendicular faces of living rock. Living occupants of the tombs--household arrangements. One used for an oven. Others for granaries.--

    [In Jehosophat, Jew grave stones lie as if indiscriminately flung abroad by a blast in a quarry. So thick, a warren of the dead--so old, the Hebrew inscriptions can hardly be distinguished from the wrinkles formed by Time. Shapeless stone &c. -- (See over leaf) Side by side here tombs of Absolom, Zachariah & St: James. Cut out of live rock in Petra style. St: James a stone verandah over-looking the gorge--pillars.--Jehosophat, shows seams of natural rock--capitals of pilasters rubbed off by Time.--Large hole in front --full of stones inside, heap of stones (cart loads) before it--The maledictory contribution of the pilgrim, one of the melancholy amusements of Jerusalem. (See Bible for origin of Tomb) To be stoned is his memorial.--The grave stones project out from the side-hill, as if already in act of resurrection. At distance hardly tell them from natural rock which lies profusely around. The stones climb midway up Olivet. Opposite, the cemetery of the Turks--close up to walls of the city, & barring the way of the closed arches of the Beautiful Gate.--both Jew & Turk sleeping in another faith than that of Him who ascended from the nigh Olivet.--The city besieged by army of the dead.--cemeteries all round.--

    [The Beautiful, or Golden, Gate--two arches, highly ornamental sculpture, undoubtedly old, Herod's Time--the Gate from which Christ would go to Bethany & Olivet--& also that in which he made his entry (with palms) into the city. Turks walled it up because of tradition that through this Gate the city would be taken.--One of the most interesting things in Jerusalem--seems expressive of the finality of Christianity, as if this was the last religion of the world,-- no other, possible.

    [In pursuance of my object, the saturation of my mind with the atmosphere of Jerusalem, offering myself up a passive subject, and no unwilling one, to its weird impressions, I always rose at dawn & walked without the walls. Nor so far as escaping the pent-up air within was concerned was I singular here. For daily I could not but be struck with the clusters of the townspeople reposing along the arches near the Jaffa Gate where it looks down into the vale of Gihon, and the groups always haunting the neighboring fountains, vales & hills. They too seemed to feel the insalubriousness of so small a city pent in by lofty walls obstructing ventilation, postponing the morning & hasting the unwholesome twilight. And they too seemed to share my impatience were it only at this arbitrary limitation & prescription of things.--I would stroll to Mount Zion, along the terraced walks, & survey the tomb stones of the hostile Armenians, Latins, Greeks, all sleeping together. --I looked along the hill side of Gihon over against me, and watched the precipitation of the solemn shadows of the city towers flung far down to the haunted bottom of the hid pool of Gihon, and higher up the darkened valley my eye rested on the cliff-girt basin, haggard with riven old olives, where the angel of the Lord smote the army of Sennacherib. And smote by the morning, I saw the reddish soil of Aceldema, confessing its inexpiable guilt by deeper dyes. On the Hill of Evil Counsel, I saw the ruined villa of the High Priest where tradition says the death of Christ was plotted, and the feild where when all was over the traitor Judas hung himself.

    [And in the afternoon, I would stand out by St: Stephen's Gate, nigh the pool likewise named after him, occupying the spot where he was stoned, and watch the shadows slowly sliding (sled-like) down the hills of Bezetha & Zion into the valley of Jehosaphat, then after resting awhile in the bottom of the ravine, slowly begin creeping up the opposite side of Olivet, entering tomb after tomb & cave after cave. &c. Pilgrims, their serious expressions, wandering about the hills &c.--

    [The Holy Sepulchre--ruined dome--confused & half-ruinous pile.--Laberithys & terraces of mouldy grottos, tombs, & shrines. Smells like a dead-house, dingy light.--At the entrance, in a sort of grotto in the wall a divan for Turkish policemen, where they sit crosslegged & smoking, scornfully observing the continuous troops of pilgrims entering & prostrating themselves before the anointing-stone of Christ, which veined with streaks of a mouldy red looks like a butcher's slab.--Near by is a blind stair of worn marble, ascending to the reputed Calvary where among other things the showman point you by the smoky light of old pawnbrokers lamps of dirty gold, the hole in which the cross was fixed and through a narrow grating as over a cole-cellar, point out the rent in the rock! On the same level, near by is a kind of gallery, railed with marble, overlooking the entrance of the church; and here almost every day I would hang, looking down upon the spectacle of the scornful Turks on the divan, & the scorned pilgrims kissing the stone of the anointing. --The door of the church is like that of a jail--a ~rated window in it.--The main body of the church is that overhung by the lofty & ruinous dome whose fallen plastering reveals the meagre skeleton of beams & laths--a sort of plague-stricken splendor reigns in the painted & mildewed walls around. In the midst of all, stands the Sepulchre; a church in a church. It is of marbles, richly sculpted in parts & bearing the faded aspect of age. From its porch, issues a garish stream of light, upon the faces of the pilgrims who crowd for admittance into a space which will hold but four or five at a time. First passing a wee vestibule where is shown the stone on which the angel sat, you enter the tomb. It is like entering a lighted lanthorn. Wedged & half-dazzled, you stare for a moment on the ineloquence of the bedizened slab, and glad to come out, wipe your brow glad to escape as from the heat & jam of a show-box. All is glitter & nothing is gold. A sickening cheat. The countenances of the poorest & most ignorant pilgrims would seem tacitly to confess it as well as your own. After being but a little while in the church, going the rapid round of the chapels & shrines, they either stand still in listless disappointment, or seat themselves in huddles about the numerous stairways, indifferently exchanging the sectarian gossip of the day. The Church of the Sepulchre is the thronged news-room & theological exchange of Jerusalem, and still the more appears so, from various little chapels, the special property of the minor sects of the Copts, the Syrians & others, which here & there beneath the dome meet the eye, much like those boxes of the stock-auctioneers, which one sees in commercial Exchanges.----The Chapel of the Finding of the Cross.--wine cellar. &c.

    --If you approach the church from the squalid alley leading towards it from the Via Dolorosa, you pass a long old wall, lofty & dingy, in every corner of whose massive buttresses, at their base, lies in open exposure an accumulation of the last & least nameable filth of a city. But at the time you are far from imagining that the wall treated with such apparent contumely (by the Turks, only, it is to be hoped) is a main wall of the fabric containing the supposed tomb of one of the persons of the Godhead. This wall passed, you dive into a steep wynd, like those in Edinburgh, and presently come to a space less confined, where you are met by a thick wall peirced by a gateway with an old wooden gate, low enough & grimy enough to be the entrance to a stye. This admits you to the immediate, masonry- locked court of the church. A considerable area, flagged with venerable stones, upon which are seated a multitude of hawkers & pedlers of rosaries, crucifixes, toys of olive wood and Dead Sea stone, & various other amulets & charms. The front of the church is made very irregular, by the careless lapping over of subsequent erections upon the original one. To the left is a high & venerable tower, which like an aged pine, is barked at bottom, & all decay at top. Much elaborate sculpture once graced what is now visable of the original facade; but Time has nibbled it away, till it now looks like so much spoiled pastry at which the mice have been at work. Iitterior of Jerusalem. Leads from St. Stephens Gate up towards Cal- vary. Silence & solitude of it. The arch--the stone he leaned against --the stone of Lazarus &c. City like a quarry--all stone.--Vaulted ways--buttresses (flying) Arch (Ecce Homo), some one has built a little batchelor's abode on top. Talk of the guides "Here is the stone Christ leaned against, & here is the English Hotel." Yonder is the arch where Christ was shown to the people, & just by that open window is sold the best coffee in Jerusalem. &c &c &c.

    [Had Jerusalem no peculiar historic associations, still would it, by its extraordinary physical aspect, evoke peculiar emotion in the traveller.

    [As the sight of haunted Haddon Hall suggested to Mrs Radcliffe her curdling romances, so I have little doubt, the diabolical landscapes great part of Judea must have suggested to the Jewish prophets, their terrific theology.

    [Wearily climbing the Via Dolorosa one noon I heard the muezzin calling to prayer from the minaret of Omer. He does the same from that of Mt Olivet.

    [The olive tree much resembles in its grotesque contortions the apple tree--only it is much more gnarled & less lively in its green. It is generally planted in orchards, which helps the resemblance. It is a haunted melancholy looking tree (sober & penitent), quite in keeping with Jerusalem & its associations. There are many olives on the plain north of the walls. The Cave of Jeremiah is in this part. In its lament- able recesses he composed his lamentable Lamentations

    [Inside the walls are many vacant spaces, overgrown with the horrible cactus. [The color of the whole city is grey & looks at you like a cold grey eye in a cold old man,--its strange aspect in the pale olive light of the morning. [There are strata of cities buried under the present surface of Jerusalem. Forty feet deep lie fragments of columns &c. [Stones of Judea. We read a good deal about stones in Scriptures. Monuments & stumps of the memorials are set up of stones; men are stoned to death; the figurative seed falls in stony places; and no wonder that stones should so largely figure in the Bible. Judea is one accumulation of stones--Stony mountains & stony plains; stony torrents & stony roads; stony walls & stony feilds, stony houses & stony tombs; stony eyes & stony hearts. Before you, & behind you are stones. Stones to right & stones to left. In many places laborious attempt has been made, to clear the surface of these stones. You see heaps of stones here & there; and stone walls of immense thickness are thrown together, less for boundaries than to get them out of the way. But in vain; the removal of one stone only serves to reveal three stones still larger, below it. It is like mending an old barn; the more you uncover, the more it grows.--The toes of every one's shoes are all stubbed to peices with the stones. They are seldom a round or even stone; but sharp, flinty & scratchy. But in the roads, such as that to Jaffa, they have been worn smooth by continuous travel.--To ac- count for this abundance of stones, many theories have been stated: My theory is that long ago, some whimsical King of the country took it into his head to pave all Judea, and entered into contracts to that effect; but the contractor becoming bankrupt mid-way in his business, the stones were only dumped on the ground, & there they lie to this day.

    [There is some prophecy about the highways being prepared for the coming of the Jews, and when the "Deputation from the Scotch Church" were in Judea, they suggested to Sir Moses Montifiore the expediency of employing the poorer sort of Jews in this work--at the same time facilitating prophecy and clearing the stones out of the way. The hills. Are stones in the concrete. Regular layers of rock; some ampitheaters disposed in seats, & terraces. The stone walls (loose) seem not the erections of art, but mere natural variations of the stony landscape. In some of the feilds, lie large grotesque rocks--all perforated & honey combed--like rotting bones of mastadons.--Every- thing looks old. Compared with these rocks, those in Europe or America look juvenile. Caves. Judea honey combed with them. No wonder that the gloomy became retreat of tens of thousands of gloomy anchorites.

    [There is at all times a smell of burning rubbish in the air of Jerusalem.

    [The so-called Pool of Bethesda full of rubbish--sooty look & smell.

    [Three Sundays a week in Jerusalem--Jew, Christian, Turk. And now come the missionaries of the 7th Day Baptists, & add a fourth. (Saturday--the Jews) How it must puzzle the converts!

    [The road from Jaffa to Jerusalem in parts very wide & full of separate divergent foot-paths, worn by the multitude of pilgrims of divergent faiths.

    [Arabs ploughing in their shirt-tails. Some of them old men. Old age is venerable,--but hardly in the shirt tail. Part of Jerusalem built on quarries--entrance from North wall. [No country will more quickly dissipate romantic expectations than Palestine--particularly Jerusalem. To some the disappointment is heart sickening. &c. [Is the desolation of the land the result of the fatal embrace of the Deity? Hapless are the favorites of heaven. [In the emptiness of the lifeless antiquity of Jerusalem the emigrant Jews are like flies that have taken up their abode in a skull.

    Christian Missions &c in Palestine & Syria A great deal of money has been spent by the . Church on Mt Zion estimated to have cost $75,000. It is a fine edifice. The present Bishop (Gobat, a Swiss by birth) seems a very sincere man, and doubtless does his best. (Long ago he was 3 years in Abyssinia. His Journal is published. Written in a strikingly unaffected style--apostolically concise & simple.) But the work over which he presides in Jerusalem is a failure--palpably. One of the missionaries under Gobat confessed to Mrs. Saunders that out of all the Jew converts, but one he beleived to be a true Christian,--with much more. All kinds of variance of opinion & jealousies prevail. The same man mentioned above also said to Mrs S. many things tending to the impression that the Mission was as full of intrigues as a ward-meeting or caucus at home. I often passed the Protestant School &c on Mt Zion, but nothing seemed going on. The only place of interest there was the Grave Yard. I attended a Missionary meeting in Jerusalem (to raise money for some other far-away place) but was not specially edified. In a year's time they had raised for "foreign missions" about 3.10, or something of that sort. the American Mission is discontinued. The sorriest accounts were given me there. No one converted but with a carnal end in view on part of convert. , Mr & Mrs Saunders from Rhode-Island. Mr Saunders a broken-down machinist & returned Californian out at elbows. Mrs. S a superior woman in many respects. They were sent out to found an Agricultural School for the Jews. They tried it but miserably failed. The Jews would come, pretend to be touched & all that, get clothing & then--vanish. Mrs S. said they were very "deceitful". Mr S. now does nothing--health gone by climate. Mrs S. learning Arabic from a Sheik, & turned doctress to the poor. She is waiting the Lord's time, she says. For this she is well qualified, being of great patience. Their little girl looks sickly & pines for home--but the Lord's work must be done. --came out some 3 or four ago to start a kind of Agricultural Academy for Jews. She seems to have been the first person actively to engage in this business, and by her pen in- cited others. A woman of fanatic energy & spirit. After a short stay at Joppa, she returned to America for contributions; succeeded in the attempt & returned with implements, money &c. Bought a tract about mile & half from Joppa. Two young ladies came out with her from America. They had troubles. Not a single Jew was converted either to Christianity or Agriculture. The young ladies sickened & went home. A month afterwards, Mrs Minot died,--I passed her place. . This man caught the contagion from Mrs Minot's published letters. Sold his farm at home & came out with wife, son & three daughters, about two years ago.--Be it said, that all these movements combining Agriculture & Religion in reference to Palestine, are based upon the impression (Mrs Minott's & others') that the time for the prophetic return of the Jews to Judea is at hand, and therefore the way must be prepared for them by Christians, both in setting them right in their faith & their farming --in other words, preparing the soil literally & figuratively. = With Mr Saunders I walked out to see Mr Dickson's place. About an hour from Joppa Gate. The house & enclosure were like the ordinary ones of the better class of Arabs. Some twelve acres were under cultivation. Mulberry trees, oranges, pomegranates, -- wheat, barley, tomatoes &c. On the Plain of Sharon, in view of mountains of Ephraim.--Mr Dickson a thorough Yankee, about 60, with long oriental beard, blue Yankee coat, & Shaker waistcoat. --At the house we were ushered into a comfortless, barn-yard sort of apartment & introduced to Mrs D. a respectable looking elderly woman. We took chairs. After some introductory remarks the following talk ensued-- H.M. "Have you settled here permanently, Mr Dickson?" Mr D. "Permanently settled on the soil of Zion, Sir." with a kind of dogged emphasis. Mrs. D (as if she dreaded her husband's getting on his hobby, & was pained by it)--"The walking is a little muddy, aint it?"--(This to Mr S.) H.M. to Mr D. "Have you any Jews working with you?" Mr D. No. Can't afford to hire them. Do my own work, with my son. Besides, the Jews are lazy & dont like work. H.M. "And do you not think that a hindrance to making farmers of them?" Mr D. "That's it. The Gentile Christians must teach them better. The fact is the fullness of Time has come. The Gentile Christians must prepare the way. Mrs D. (to me) "Sir, is there in America a good deal of talk about Mr D's efforts here? M. D. Yes, do they beleive basicly in the restoration of the Jews? H.M. I can't really answer that. Mrs D. I suppose most people beleive the prophecys to that effect in a figurative sense--dont they? HM. Not unlikely. &c &c &c. They have two daughters married here to Germans, & living near fated to beget a progeny of hybrid vagabonds.--Old Dickson seems a man of Puritanic energy, and being inoculated with this preposterous Jew mania, is resolved to carry his Quixotism through to the end. Mrs D. dont seem to like it, but submits.--The whole thing is half melancholy, half farcical--like all the rest of the world. Dr Kayok(?) English Consul. This gentleman, born in the Levant, was some years in England. He awaked great interest there in behalf of the Jews, and came to Joppa at last to start some missionary project, and was not unprovided with funds contributed by the pious in England. --Long since he gave up the whole project, engaged in trade, is now a flourishing man, & English Consul. At any hints in reference to Missions, he betrays aversion to converse. It is whispered that he was someway trickish with the funds. Sir Joseph Montifiore. This Croesus visited Palestine last year, bought a large tract on the hill of Gihon & walled it in for hospital grounds. A huge man of 75, he was carried to Jerusalem from Joppa, on a litter borne by mules. They fleeced him sadly, charging enormous prices for everything he bought. Sir J. seems to have the welfare of his poor countrymen near his heart, and it is said, purposes returning here for i e.-- The idea of making farmers of the Jews is vain. In the first place Judea is a desert with few exceptions. In the second place, the Jews hate farming. All who cultivate the soil in Palestine are Arabs. The Jews dare not live outside walled towns or villages for fear of the malicious persecution of the Arabs & Turks.--Besides, the number of Jews in Palestine is comparatively small. And how are the hosts of them scattered in other lands to be brought here? Only by a miracle. Strange revelation made to me by Mr Wood (of Concord N.H) American Consul at Beyrout, concerning hidden life of Mrs Minot. Considered by him & L. Napier as crazy woman. Also about Miss Williams--Campbellite &c. Mr Wood saw Mr Dickson going about Jerusalem with open Bible, looking for the opening asunder of Mount Olivet and the preparing of the highway for the Jews. &c

    Jan 27th Got on board the Austrian steamer "Acquila Imperiale" at I . P.M. yesterday, but did not sail till late in the evening. Much wind & sea all night. In morning coast in view,--Leabonon mountains-- snow-topped--Mt Hermon not in sight--inland.--At 2. P.M came to anchor at Beyrout. --Hotel Bel View--dragoman to Warburton--Sirocco blowing. Town occupies tongue of land projecting from base of Leabonon. Lofty mountains all round. Walled town. Old ruins of castles of crusaders. Town between desert & sea --both eating at it--buried trees & houses--Rich gardens.--Pier washed by surf--like walking on reef.--Lovely situation of hotel. Jan (26)th Monday. Fine day--warm. Strolled about. Lazy heave of sea on rocks. Beautiful walk to town. Consuls books. Interesting man. Luckless discussion at dinner. Young Prussian.

    Jan 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 --At the hotel. Mt Leabonon--snow--sun-- tropic & Pole brought into one horizon. The~ate. Tarter couriers rushing in with tidings of war.--Quiet days--stroll out on sea shore--dash of billows--what is all this fuss about? &c. -- Orientalls have no hearth--no bed.--Never blush.--The Pasha's ball--The Bashi Bazouk's interpretation &c--Mt Sun-Nin--River Adonis--Tranquil despondency--Burial of Janizary--Koran in palm--Party of the Pasha--interpretation of Bashi Bazouk. The Twelve Judges.--Mr Wood of Concord--the Consul.

    Sunday February 1st 1857. Fine day--sea & wind abated. Paid pas- sage (cheated) in Austrian Loyds steamer "Smirne" to Smyrna. Went on board at 3. P.M. Did not have chance to bid Mr Wood good bye. Sailed at sunset. One week at Beyrout.--Very slow boat--foul bottom. poor accomodations.--Unmannerly captain--scene at dinner table.--Captain been in America.

    Feb 2d Monday. At 10. AM sighted Cypruss. on starboard bow. Coming near long reach of whitish & yellowish coast with lofty mountains inland. From these waters rose Venus from the foam. Found it as hard to realize such a thing as to realize on M' Olivet that from there Christ rose.--About 5 P.M. came to anchor off Larnaca the port of Cypruss. Could not well go ashore. But saw pretty much all worth seeing from deck. A level country about the town. Turkish look. Palms & minarets--houses along the shore. Export wine here. Quite a scene among the boatmen alongside. Rivalry of five boatmen for one passenger. Sunset.

    Feb 3d Tuesday. Fair wind last night. At 11. A. M. came round ahead with a very violent squall. Continued blowing for rest of day, ship horribly pitching & rolling. Seas coming from all directions. Poor devels of pilgrims seasick.

    Feb 4th Wednesday. Sudden change to very fine weather. The coast of Caramania in sight all day. Lofty mountains--7000 feet according to chart. Yesterday, during squall, amusing conduct of Panurge a Greek --thought his hour was come. Also, amusing Scene in cabin at dinner. Democracy of Captain & officers. Engineer came in--sat down --drank to "the Queen!"--All Lloyds & M. I. built in England. Great source of wealth.--Beautiful evening--moonlight. Came up with Rhodes, but did not touch (though we had some Turk passengers for it) owing to the Captain's wanting to use the moonlight for getting through intricate part of the Sporades. Rhodes looked a large & high island with some few lofty mountains inland. Recent explosion of gunpowder magazine has destroyed good part of "Street of the Chevaliers."--One finds that, after all, the most noted localities are made up of common elements of earth, air, & water.--English (Cornish) engineer invited me down to his department, and after- wards to supper in his mess. He was somewhat under stimulants. Said (pointing to his engines) "A fine pair of tools, Sir. " Quite in love with his engine.--Beautiful moonlight detained me on deck late, as well as dread of my birth. Retired about 11. but at 2 A. M. was fairly goaded on deck by intolerable persecutions of bugs. Have suffered beyond telling from this cause. Not a wink of sleep now for four nights, & expect none till I get to Smyrna. This affliction of bugs & fleas & moschitos fully counterbalances to me all the satisfactions of Eastern travel.--

    Thursday Feb 5th, In among the Sporades all night. Standing on t'gallant forecastle by the bright moon, Captain & officers steered us through the entanglements of channels. At dawn were completely landlocked by islands & islets. Cos, a large island, one of them. Sailed close to several. Almost jump ashore. Deep water. So thick, hard to say how you got in, or how you are to get out. All isles rocky, naked & barren. Patches of verdure on some. Fire kindled on one.--Would think this were navigation for a skiff. Passed two or three small quaint Greek vessels.--A fine sail upon the whole. But the scenery is all outline. No filling up. Seem to be sailing upon gigantic outline engravings. Shadows however help the scene. Distinct black of near isle relieved against haze of one behind. Or, terraces of bright distinctness-- dusky grey--deep purple--according to successive distances.-- Serene morning. Pale blue sky.--Steered out from intricasies & saw Samos ahead, and Patmos--quite lonely looking. Patmos stands in fact quite isolated--the more so, apparently, from so suddenly coming upon it after the apple-like clusterings of the other isles. Patmos is pretty high, & peculiarly barren looking. No inhabitants.--Was here again afflicted with the great curse of modern travel--skepticism. Could no more realize that St:John had ever had revelations here, than when off Juan Fernandez, could beleive in Robinson Crusoe according to De Foe. When my eye rested on arid heigth, spirit partook of the barreness.--Heartily wish Niebuhr & Strauss to the dogs.--The deuce take their penetration & acumen. They have robbed us of the bloom. If they have undeceived any one--no thanks to them.--Pity that ecclesiastical countries so little attractive by nature. Captain's story of Greek pilgrims--great part of profit of A. Lloyds from this source--Thick as cattle in pen sometimes. Save up their money for years. Like Mussulmen to Mecca.--Priest at Jerusalem sell them ticket for heaven Printed paper with Dove in middle & Father & Son each side. Divided into seats like plan of theatre on benefit night. Cant let you have this place--taken up. Nor this, but if this here in the corner will do--very good--may have it at 500 piastres &c. Engineer told me about his acquaintance with Mike Walsh on board this boat last year. Went to Crimea. At Trieste made speech in beer-shop to English engineers. Provoked suspicion of Austrian spy &c. Cornishman enthusiastically in love with magnanimous nature of redoubtable Mike.--He was out at elbows & borrowing money. The "eminentest" man in E.'s opinion.

    Friday Feb 6th. A cold rainy night, last night. Choice between shivering & scratching. Took both. Horrible night.--Slept awhile on settee, awoke chilled through.--Another time was all but frantic with the fleas.--The Scratching ship. Captain with back-scratcher--Two men leaning up & rubbing against each other &c. Main diversion.--In the rain entered Smyrna bay at day break. Nearly two months since here before. Hills below looked green, but mountains covered with snow.--Ashore to hotel & breakfast. Rascally waiter.--Walked in bazaar. Got bill cashed.--While at breakfast felt very bad neuralgic pain top of head--owing to utter sleeplessness of last five nights.-- At 5. P.M sailed in Paddle steamer "Italia" of Lloyd's Austriaco for Pireus.--An Austrian man-of-war in harbor. Midshipmen in queer little canoes--standing up. One--alternate blades of oars.--Smoking. Honest bobtail--Stimulated. Enjoyment. Padleling in wake of steamer.--Good nights' rest. Italian merchant of Ancona.--Dried up but merry. Smoking. "Estates of the Church--Estates of de Debel!"--His ship at ConstantPle Custom House.--Venetian & wife & child.--Windy boat Temple of winds.--No comfort on deck.-- Albanian taking his wine--Greek Priest.--(Little present)

    Saturday Feb 7th Came to anchor at Syra--after stopping at Scio-- this afternoon. Blowing hard & remained through the night. Third time at Syra. Very cold to what it was before. (Feb 8th Sunday) At dawn got under weigh. Head wind, head sea--cold, comfortless. Turned in to berth till four o'clock. Could not view the islands though passing many.--Towards sunset approached Pireus.--Bare & bald aspect of the shores & isles--Came to anchor at 7. PM. Bright moonlight, with traces of the recent gales.--Man-of-war at anchor. Got into boat, & ashore, & into old hack, and through a settlement like one on tow path of canal, to a M'Adamed road straight as die,--& into Athens. Passed horse & foot patrol. -- Greeks in cafes smoking. Tomorrow prepare for the Acropolis.--I saw it by moonlight from road. Trying to be serious about St. John when from where I stood figure of Santon a Arab holy man came between me & island--almost naked--ludicrous chaced away gravity--solemn idiocy--lunatic --opium-eater--dreamer--yet treated with profoundest respect & reverence--allowed to enter anywhere.--Wretched imbecile! bare & beggarly Santon, miserable stumbling-block in way of the prophecies, since saint though thou art thou art so far from inheriting the earth that thou dost not inherit a shirt to thy nakedness!

    Feb 8th Sunday. After tempestuous, cold passage, came to anchor at Pireus and by moonlight to Athens. Hotel d Angleterre. Alexander, guide--with Boyd who wrote Murray's G. B.--Acropolis--blocks of marble like blocks of Wenham ice--or like huge cakes of wax.-- Parthenon elevated like cross of Constantine. Strange contrast of rugged rock with polished temple. At Stirling--art & nature correspond. Not so at Acropolis. Imperceptible seams--frozen together. --Break like cakes of snow.-- Jupiter Olympus. Like clearing in woods. clump of columns--Two isolated at further end.--Tuft of sculpture at top--Palm tree-- drooping of acanthus like palm &c--Prostrate pillar in railing, like grave. Roulaeu of guineas--massy--base leaning--fallen pine-- fell straight--still symmetric even in its fall. Stood more than 2000 years--down at last. Same night pillar of Erectheum fell. Feb 9'/~ Monday. Viewed the ruins with Alexander--looked at his shop (Hymettos honey, Parnasus canes, Marathon necklaces of shell, views of Athens--dress &c.)--Mr Marshall of Boston or N.Y. at hotel. Been all over Meditterranean on ice business. Cut ice at Black Sea.--I imagined his story of life) Called on L)r King Consul. Greek wife. Invited to tea. His daughter been in America. Pleasant evening. --Cold, with intervals of snow & sun through the day.

    Feb lOth' Among the ruins--revisited them all. Temple of Theseus well preserved. Yellowish look--saffron--burnt in slow fire of Time. Temple of Victory--ressurection--figure of Victory tying her sandal--grace & loveliness of the whole conception.--Genoese Tower incorporating columns of Perysplea.--Pavement of Parthenon--square--blocks of ice. (frozen together.)--No morter:-- Delicacy of frost-work. Spent evening conversing with young English officer from Zephalonia--Told story of Lindy Foote's son. &c.--Saw the sunset from Lyccabacus. Lovely climb.

    Feb 11th Wednesday. Clear & beautiful day. Fine ride on box to Pireus. Acropolis in sight nearly whole way. Straight road. Fully releived against the sky--Between Hymmettus & Pentelicus. Pentelicus covered at top with snow--looking down on its child, the Parthenon.-- Ruins of Parthenon like North River breaking up. &c--At 2 P.M embarked in French steamer "Cydnus" for Messina. Noble vessel & French-built. Two or three Englishmen on board--young men. Talk with them. Misseri (Eothen's) on board, going to England. Talk with him.--Sailed along coast of Morea--mountainous. Good bed & slept well.

    Feb 12th Thursday. Head wind & not fair overhead. but fast steamer. Quite a number in Second Cabin. No land in sight to day.

    Feb 13th Friday. Coasts of Calabria & Sicily ahead at day break. Neared them at 10 o'clock. Both very high & broken--picturesque. Many houses. Snow on tops of highest mountains. Fine sail in the straits. At 1 P.M. anchored in harbor of Messina. Fine harbor. Like lagoon. Rainy day. Landed at Police. Searched for papers &c. Hotel in noble street. Large church. Coat cleaned.

    Feb 14th Saturday. Last night went to cafe near opera-house to meet if I might, Dr Lockwood of the frigate. But did not. This morning pleasant weather. Many American vessels in port for fruit. This the season. Went on board one. Went off to friggate. Called on Cap. Bell. Saw Dr Lockwood. Went with him on donkeys to a high hill four miles distant. The telegraph. Dined with him & officers in ward-room of friggate. Passed off pleasantly. Then walked through the town with the Dr, and in evening went to the opera of Macbeth with him. Retired at 11 P. M.--The officers of U. S. F. Constellation are

    Captain Bell Lieut Faunteleroy. (Virginian) 1st Lieut. Porter Mid. Buchanan. 2d " Bankhead Cap. Clerk. Bell. -- " Spicer

    The forts of Messina command the town, not the sea. Large tract of town demolished, so as to have rest at command from fort. Dial in church. Streams from mountains coming through the town.

    Feb 15th Sunday. Dr Lockwood called at hotel, sat, and then proposed long walk. Walked out in long suburbs skirting the sea. Calabrla's mountains in sight. Salvator Rosa look of them. Met masquers on the road. Carnival. Walked 7 or 8 miles. sat on stones, much talk. Fine day. Enjoyed it considerably. Back to dinner at hotel by 6 P.M. Streets very lively in evening. Walked about with Dr. till 10 o'clock. Cafe--habitue's.

    Monday & Tuesday 16 & 17 Feb. Neapolitan steamer for Naples started at 1 P.M to day. Took 2d cabin passage. Repented it sorely in the end. Crossed the Straits to Reggio (St. Paul) lay there till midnight. By day break stopped at another place, high on hill, (Murat shot) and at noon at a third place on coast. Fine weather. Calm & beautiful. Populous shores & very mountainous & high. Scenery very fine. Sailed close in shore. Suffered again horribly from sleeplessness. (Saw Etna from Reggio)

    Wed. 18 Feb. Ere day break we passed between Capri & main & entered bay of Naples. I was on deck. Dim mass of Vesuvius soon in sight. Recognized it from pictures of outline. Soon, smelt the city. Brilliant lights. --Detained on board till 9 A.M. by Police being dilatory. Went to Hotel de Cerleve with some others. Struck by first appearance of Naples. Great crowds, noble streets, lofty houses.--At breakfast Rhinelander & Friedman said they were going to Pompeii. Joined them. R. R. same thing over the world. Passed through Portici, Resino, Torre del Greco. Pompeii like any other town. Same old humanity. All the same whether one be dead or alive. Pompeii comfortable sermon. Like Pompeii better than Paris. Guards there. Silent as Dead Sea. To Vesuvius on horseback. Vineyards about the base. Ashy climb. Hanging on to guide. Haggling. Old crater of Pompeii. Modern crater like old abandoned quarry -- burning slagmass--Red & yellow. Bellowing. Bellows. flare of flame. Went into crater. Frozen liquorice. Came down with a rush. Dusk. Ride in dark. At Nunnziata got veturino to Naples. Cold ride, no coat, -back to hotel by midnight. Silent country & streets. One suburb. Ate & to bed.

    Thursday Feb 19th. Sallied out for walk by myself. Strada di Toledo. Noble street. Broadway. Vast crowds. Splendor of city. Palace-- soldiers--music--clang of arms all over city. Burst of troops from archway. Cannon posted inwards. Royal carriages in palace--royal steamers. To Capo di Monte in cab. Supurb palace, roads, grounds, & view. St. Januarius of the Poor. Catacombs--old man with lanthorn. Great extent. Old bones. Grimy. Could'nt get away. Thought crazy.--Walked about again. Bought good coat for $9.--Quays show little commerce. Wonder how live here. Magnificence of the city. Vesuvius in sight from square. Smoking.--Walked to Villa Real--hotels--at Brittanique happened to see Townsend's name. --Dined there. Releived by hearing (tho' but indirectly) from home. To San Carlo at 10 o'clock. Fine house. Met English banker. Sentinel on stage &c.

    Friday Feb 20th. Walked to Post Office with letters. Then took voiture for eastern part of bay. Posilipo--beautiful promontory of villas --along the sea--new road--till came in sight of bay of Pozzuoli. Went through Grotto of Sejanus to remains of school of Virgil & other ruins of villas. Ruined stone balcony overhanging deep cave & cliff. Isle of Nisida. Saw Baia--the end of the bay. Went to the Solfatara--smoke--landscape not so very beautiful.--Sulphurous & aridity, the end of the walk. (At Posilipo found not the cessation which the name expresses. ) Passed lake of Agano (salt at bottom) (Avernus did not visit--much the same, I suppose) Visited Grotto del Cane. Old man leading poor patient little dog. Unlocked gate.--Dog keeled over, gasped, insensible. Dragged out & came to --lay on grass, rolled & walked patiently off.--Poor victim.-- Returned to Naples by Grotto of Pausilipo. Very high. Scene of thoroughfare in Grotto. Smacking of whips, goats, twilight. --Sun streams through at sunset.--Villa Real--splendid equipages. Visited Virgil's tomb--mere ruin--high up. great view of bay & Naples & Vomero Mount & Castle of Elmo. Drove up to Elmo Castle. Long street. From balcony over garden of Church of San Martino got glorious view of bay & town. Sunset. White friars.--Drove to Cafe de la Europe for cheap dinner. Row with cabman. Dined & walked for an hour in Strada di Toledo. Great crowds. Could hardly tell it from Broadway. Thought I was there.--Cafes well filled.--Many lottery shops, all with little shrine of Virgin & child, lit--cheap decoration. Curious reflections. Religious inducement to wickedness.-- Home by 9 & to bed.

    Saturday 21st Feb. Upon going from chamber in morning encountered by jabbering man with document. Commissionnaire. Into breakfast room--people at table--"Do any of you speak French?" Whereupon Mr Rowse(?) spoke. Passport. &c. --Went to Rothschilds' for 20. No scrutiny as at other places. Went to Museum. A collection of them. Bronze utensils from Pompeii & Herculaneum.-- Helmet & skull.--Dentist tools--Surgical tools--furnaces-- Mosaic tables & pavements--fishooks--mirrors for toilette--cash cabinets. --mythological delineations. . Plato (hair & beard & imperial) Nero (villianous) Seneca (caricature. ) Drunken faun on wine skin. Augustus . horse--colossal head of horse--&c &c. Madonna by Raffael--a Domenichino. Two small Correggios--(Could not see anything so wonderful in these last) But face of Raffael's Madonna touchingly maternal. A vast collection of other pictures I but glanced at. --from Diomed's house--fruit pieces &c from dining room. . Hercules Farnese--colossal. gravely benevolent face. The group of the bull; glorious.--Tomb stones &c with inscriptions, identical with ours. --Had to quit Museum ere through with it. Went in voiture to Cathedral of St. Januarius. Very fine. Thence a promiscuous drive through the older & less elegant part of town. Long narrow lanes. Arches, crowds. . Blocked way. Balconies with women. Cloth on ground. They gave way, after natural reluctance. Merriment. Turned round & gave the most grateful & graceful bow I could. Handkerchiefs waved from balconies, goodhumored cries &c--Felt prouder than an Emperor. Shabby old hack, but good fellow, driver. Wonderful number of shops &c. Crowds of idlers. Lazzaroni trouble- some. Stopped in at curious little old chapel. Statue in net.--Dismissed hack at hotel.--Walked on mole. Military continually about streets.--Curious bells near my room. Every ten minutes strike. Repeat each other. Conversation of bells. Tete-a-tete. Dined at hotel de Geneve at S P.M. Uncertain about diligence or veturino to Rome. Paid a Napoleon for getting passport in order.

    Sunday 22d Feb. Breakfasted early and at 9 o'clock took train for Castleamarre (In the corner) with Mr Rows of Brunswick (N.J) and young Englishman.--Volcanic formation along road. Crowds of hackmen &c. Veturino bargaining. Three horses, with cock feathers, abreast, to Sorrento for about a dollar.--Grand drive. Road. Windings broad sweeps & curves--ravines--bridge--terrace--rocks--inclined plain--heigth--sea--Sorrento. Tasso's house, hotel. Beauty of site on cliff overhanging sea &c.--Disappointment about veturino. Some mystery of general procedure.--Got man to speak English & engaged Is' seat in coupe for 24th Feb.--Mr R. a little queer at dinner. His sister affable.

    Monday 23d Feb. Went to Museum after breakfast. Shut. Took hack and went on Pausipilo road. Fine morning. Repassed the scenery of the other day as far as hill (semicircular turn-out) whence you get view of bay of Pozzuoli. Drove to village of that name. Thence to Lake Avernus. In a crater. Lonely look. flags on water side. Meloncolly old temple. Curious they should have fabled hell here. Cave of Sybil. Gate. (Narrow one to hell, here) Torches. Long grotto, many hundred feet, fast walk. Came to sudden dive down --very narrow--Descent to Infernal regions, guide said--Came to pool--took me on his shoulder across--bath & bed of Sybil-- oracle-place--Landed me on ledge of rock.--Many other caves to right & left. Infernal enough.--What in God's name were such places made for, & why? Surely man is a strange animal. Diving into the bowels of the earth rather than building up towards the sky. How clear an indication that he sought darkness rather than light.--Before coming to Lucrino (near the sea, divided by cause- way; very stagnant & bad smell--"hotel" overlooking it) you see the New Mountain. Curious to see this stranger (parvenue) from the abysses taking his rank among the elderly mountains. But not so new, either. Could tell queer stories. "But that the secrets of his prison-house &c" [Comparison between Avernus & Hinnom) New Mountain cultivated towards summit. Buildings on it.--Pozzuoli a great bay in bay. Drive to Baie. Along the shore. Road cut through ruins of old villas of Romans. Singular melting together of art in ruins and Nature n vigor. Vines overrunning ruins. Ruins here take the place of rocks. Arches, substructures, buttresses &c &c &c. Temple of Venus. Round. Summit wavy with verdure--corpses dressed for a ball. Temple of Mercury. Low dome. Part fallen & below. Vines drooping down. Echo. Where art thou, Mercury-- [On the western shore of Italy is a bay &c.--A burning mountain--enumerate the momentoes of the remorselessness of Nature-- ravages of war &c--burned city. Solfatara &c. Now, one would think if any modern city were here built &c, they would be sober in view of these things. But no. Gayest city in the world. No equipages flash like these; no beauties so haughty. No cavaliers so proud, no palaces so sumptuous. &c &c.--Apt representation of that heedlessness, benignly ordained, of man which prevents him one generation from learning from a past.--"Let us eat, drink & be merry, for tomorrow we die." Such seems the lesson learned by the Neapolitans from their scenery.--The beauty of the place, in connection with its perilousness.--Skaters on ice.--[Full, too, of monuments of the variety of old religions (Sybils cave) and yet the Romish superstition. --Arrived at hotel at 4 P.M. & prepared to pack valise to leave at Diligence office overnight, after writing this scrawl of memorandum --Next for

    Rome. P.S. Wonderful old ruinous palace at Pausolippo. Sea-palace. The road. Villas, grots, summer-houses--ravines--towers &c &c &c. Such a profusion & intricacy of grotto, grove, gorge villa hill, that it takes some time patience to disentangle such snarls of beauty. --Of the ride to Pausillippo.-- Scene at dinner table tonight. Comments &c. The young Parisian, the fair young lady, the French judge with black cap on.

    Tuesday Feb 24th At 8.A.M. started in diligence from P.O in Naples for Rome. Only Frenchman & self in coupe. Like balcony overlooking horses. Snug. Far preferable to steamer &c.--Fine level country about Naples. Vines abundant. Smart postilion--one continual gal- lop & crack of the whip from post to post. Change horses 8 miles. At least 100 horses at the diligence. At Fondi passed our veturino friend. Saw various ruins from time to time. At night fall entered among mountains. The tower & sea at Terracina. Night.

    Wednesday Feb 25th At daybreak were on the Alban mount. At lo A.M were in Rome. First letter from home. Stopped at hotel de Minerva. In square is obelisk on elephant. Walked to Capitol. Took view from tower. Whether it is having come from the East, or chafed mood, or what, but Rome fell flat on me. Oppressively flat. -- Did'nt sleep any last night, though.--Tiber a ditch, yellow as saffron. The whole landscape nothing independent of associations. St: Peters looks small from Tower of Capitol.--Walked to St. Peters. Front view disappointing. But grand approach. Interior comes up to expectations. But dome not so wonderful as St: Sophia's.--Exhaust- ed at 3. PM. Dined at 6 & to bed.

    Thursday Feb 26. To Torloni's, banker, to find out about S. Shaw or letters. Learnt nothing. To Capitol & Coliseum.--Coliseum like great hollow among hills. Hopper of Greylock. Slope of concentric rums overgrown. mountainous. Museum of Capitol. Hall of Emperors. "That Tiberius? he dont look so bad at all"--It was he. A look of sickly evel, --intellect without manliness & sadness without goodness. Great brain overrefinements. Solitude.--Dying Gladiator. Shows that humanity existed amid the barberousness of the Roman time, as it now among Christian barberousness. Antinous, beautiful. Walked to the Pincian hill----gardens & statuary-- overlooking Piazza del Populo. --(Music on Pincian) Fashion & Rank--Preposterous posturing within stone's throw of Antinous. How little influence has truth on the world!--Fashion everywhere ridiculous, but most so in Rome. No place where lonely man will feel more lonely than in Rome. (or Jerusalem). Fine view of St Peters from Pincian.--In the evening walked to Cafe Greco in Via Condotti. "English sculptor" with dirty hands &c. Dense smoke. Rowdy looking chaps. &c--Home & to bed. (Stopped at evening in picture dealers; offered a Cenci for $4. Surprising cheap). Fine lounge in Piazza di Espagna among picture & curiosity dealers, & in Via Condotti, also.

    Friday Feb 27th Tried to find A. Consul, Page, & Jarves. Failed in all. --Went to Baths of Caracalla.--Wonderful. Massive. Ruins form, as it were, natural bridges of thousands of arches. There are glades, & thickets among the ruins--high up.--Thought of Shelley. Truly, he got his inspiration here. Corresponds with his drama & mind. Still magestic, & desolate grandure.--After much trouble & sore travel without a guide managed to get to Protestant Burial Ground & pyramid of Cestius under walls. Read Keats' epitaph. Separated from the adjacent ground by trench.--Shelley in other ground. Plain stone. -- (Went from Caracalla to Shelley's grave by natural process) Thence to Cenci Palace, by way of Suspension Bridge, Isle of Tiber, theater of Marcellus (blacksmiths shops &c in arches--black with centuries grime & soot--built upon above & inhabited) & Orsini Palace & Ghetto. Tragic looking place enough. The big sloping arch.--Part of it inhabited, part desolate.--Thence to Farnese palace--finest architecture of all the palaces (private). Farnese Hercules & Farnese Toro formerly here. Now in Museum Borbonico Naples. Thence to St. Angelo Bridge & St. Peters. And to dinner & bed.--Remarked the banks of Tiber near St: Angelo--fresh, alluvial look near masonry--primeval as Ohio in the midst of all these monuments of the centuries. Saturday Feb 28th Lost time going after Consul &c. At 12 M. was at Borghese villa. Extent of grounds--peculiar odors of Italian garden --Deep groves--cold splendor of villa--Venus & Cupid--mischevous look of C.--Thence to Villa Albani--along the walls-- Antinous--head like moss-rose with curls & buds--rest all simplicity--end of fillet on shoulder--drapery, shoulder in the mantle-- hand full of flowers & eyeing them--the profile &c. The small bronze Apollo. surprising how such a metal could be melted into such flexible-looking forms. Picture of Italian lady.-- --Thence to the gate Pia to fountain of Moses. Not bad--Ox drinking--pitchers &c crowded round.--Thence to baths of Diocletian--church--monument of 8 columns.--S. Rosa's tomb. The four fountains--Monte Cavallo--colossal horses from ruins of baths--like finding the bones of the mastadon--gigantic figures emblematic of gigantic Rome. Hill of Monte Cavallo. View of dome of St. Peters.--Thence by Trajan's forum home at 6 P.M. dinner & to bed.--Extent of ground not built upon within walls of Rome. Silence & loneliness of long streets of blank garden walls.

    Sunday March 1st 1857. To Monte Cavallo--colossal equestrian group, found in Baths, basin also, obelisk--most imposing group of antiques in Rome.--People those Caracalla baths anew with these colossal figures--Gigantic Rome.--St. Peters in its magnitude & colossal statuary seems an imitation of these fragments.--The grass growing in the Square. The 4 Fountains. 4 Vistas--terminating with obelisks &c.--The private old palaces--The ruinous fountain of rocks, the vines &c trailing into pool. The mossy pillars & green ooze of loneliness.--The poor old statues in their niches--the gardens. --San Maria Maggore.--(The picture at home) Gold from Perue. --Trophies of Marius & several other ruins. The Porta Maggore. Finest ancient gate in Rome. Baker's Tomb. Acqueducts--mass of brick. To the basilica of St: John Lateran. Loneliness of the spot by Giovanni Gate (Naples) heigth looking down from walls--Splendor of private tomb there. 12 Apostles gigantic--drapery.--Did not visit Stairs &c--Walk along the walls outside.--Solitude & silence --passing gates walled up--passing the gate Totilla entered-- perfect hush of all things--The gardens outside--To the Gate of St: Sebastian--ancient. Arch of Drusus--Columbaria--Dove-cote-- The little busts. Darby & Joan, hand in hand--domestic expression --man the same--. Scipio's tomb. Extent of it--inscriptions-- candles.--Notification over gate--Penny-Fair.--Palace of the Cesars--Went in--Great arch over arch--stairs--birds--stables. --Arch of Janus.--Cloaca Maxima--gloomy hole--trailing vines into the sewer.--Lost my way getting back. Stopped in at church. Animated preacher. Home by 5 P.M. Dinner & to bed. March 2d 1857. Vatican Day (Monday) From 12 to 3 in Museum; previously visiting the Loggie of Raphael & Sistine Chapel. The Loggie--piazzas--sky seen between columns--Adam & Eve--The Eve--Faded bloom of the paintings.--Staid in Vatican till closed. Fagged out completely, & sat long time by the obelisk, recovering from the stunning effect of a first visit to the Vatican.--Went to Piazza di Espagna, & home.--Sat awhile in the Rouses' room ere retiring. Hall of Animals--Wolf & sheep.

    March 3d, Tuesday. Started with Mr & Miss R. to ascend St. Peters. Too late for time.--Visited Mosaic Museum in Vatican. Heads of Popes for St. Pauls. Rode to Palazzo Barberini to see Cenci.--Expression of suffering about the mouth--(appealing look of innocence) not caught in any copy or engraving.--Lovely little painting of Galatea in car--two swimmers in dark blue shadowed water--gleam of limbs. --A Holbein (Christ disputing with doctors) To San Maria Maggoire. To St. John Lateran--Corsini chapel--gems in crown-- statue below in vault--"The Pieta"--Scala Santa--(5 stairs) pilgrims going up--penitents.--Walked to Trevi Fountain.--Very fine.--A cold, raw, windy, dirty & horribly disagreeable day. Dinner & to bed.--The Peruvian & Pole.--The Irish priest.

    March 4th Wednesday. Ascended St. Peters. feilds & paddocks on top --figures of saints.--Met Mr & Mrs C. & brother on the church.-- To Corsini Palace--paintings--large gallery--& very many first rate works. Holbein's Luther & wife--Magdalen of Carlo Dolci.-- Battle scene of Salvator Rosa & one Calabrian scene. To church of St. Pietro in Montorio--Flagellation of Piombo--View of Rome. To the Fountain Paolina--largest in city. Another noble view. -- Crossed the Janiculum Bridge to Saint Andrea delle Valle--Frescoed cupola----Early to bed.

    March 5th Thursday. To Coliseum. To Villa built upon arches of palace of Cesars. To Capitol. Through gallery a second time. Bronze Wolf. To Borghese Gallery. Danae. C. Borgia. To Pincian Hill. Cold grey windy day. Eye so bad had to go to room & to bed at 5 P.M. minus dinner. March 6th Friday. Eye prevented me from doing or seeing much to day. To St. Peters--Borghese Gallery--Pincian--Saw the Pope in carriage-- Funeral of French officer--lane among high walls crowned with green foliage--Talk with Mr R. in his room.

    March 7th Saturday. To Sciarra Gallery. Faded splendor--balcony over Corso--closeness of a closet--The Cheating Gamblers (Honesty & Knavery--the self-possession & confidence of knavery--the irresolution & perplexity of honesty)--The Gloaming (to apply a Scotch word) of a scene between dusk & dark of Claude. Other Claudes (His first manner) All their effect is of atmosphere. He paints the air. Curious Holy Family of Albert Durer (the old nurse) A Lady by Titian--The crimson & white sleeves--The golden haze of his pictures (Danae) The Sciarra has been in Chancery.--To the Rospiglioso gallery--The terraced garden--200 years old--the garden stairway in hollow--mossy balustrades--The lemon walk tiled over--The fish pond & fountains & violets wet with spray----The Casino--bas-reliefs--Aurora--Floats over- head like sun-dyed clouds--The Mirror--the lovers seated there. Sampson pulling down the temple--gigantic--unfortunate hint at fall of Aurora--The shot. To the Quirinale Palace of Pope. Vast hall--cold splendor--Marbles, paintings, &c &c &c Gobelins-- The Palm--Sevres china--Guido's Annunciation (Raphaels') Fresco of the Swiss Guards looking down--boxes with ribands--The Gardens--A Paridise without the joy--freaks & caprices of endless wealth--rhuematics in gardener--As stone is sculptured into forms of foliage, so here foliage trained into forms of sculpture--Walls, niches, arches, casements, columns, bases, chambers (quarried out of foliage)--The arcades--leafy cloisters--The water-organ--the Vulcan's shop--the fountains.--To Church out of Bath--Monumental columns--Greek Cross.--To little gem of church in street leading to Porta Pia--The gem--the cherubs looking down from cupola--the precious marbles.--Dined on 19 cents at Lepri's in Via Condotti & home & to bed. Eye very troublesome. Hope it wont stay so.

    March 8th Sunday To Jesuits Church--To Gibbon's church nigh Capitol--various columns rifled from ancient edifices--Gibbon's meditations--Christianity.--To Baths of Titus--overgrown-- dark & intricate--resort of banditti once.--To Mamertine Prison. To Tarpean--dirty yard at base--Dignified Roman guide--"Miserable!"--Pitiable object. --To St Peters--tour of interior-- Stuarts' tomb. The Popes monuments. To Pincian--great Sunday resort.--Dined on 17 cents & to bed at 11 PM after a talk with Mr R. in his room.

    March 9th Monday. Vatican day.--Deliberate walk through the galleries.--Hall of Animals--Wolf & lamb, paw uplifted, tongue-- fleece. Dog on stag, eying him. Lion on horse.--But Playing goats --the goat & kid--show a Wordsworthian appreciation of the gentle in Nature.--Frescoed ceilings which, like starry skies, no man regards--so plentiful are the splendors.--Coronation of the Virgin--Raphael--the faces so like his masters Perugino's in the next room.--Review of troops in St Peters piazza.--With Mr & Miss Rouse to St. Onofrio, church & monastery, where Tasso expired. On the Janiculum, fine view of Rome. Sad corridors, cloisters & no grass. Doleful old chamber--Wax cast.--Little sad garden, mouldering gateways.--Quaint church--damp & doleful.--New monument in wretched taste.--Stopped in at some churches & to Lepri, to soup & meat.

    March 10th Tuesday. I begin writing here after more than one week's abstinence, oweing to state of my eyes and general incapacity. On the day of this date I went to the Doria Pamfili palace in the morning. Most elegant one in Rome perhaps. Two portraits of Raphael. One of Titian's women--profuse brown hair on Magdalen--Thought I detected a resemblance between it & his portrait of his wife--only the Magdalen idealized. Machiavelli's portrait disappointed me. Ugly profile, &c. Did'nt like it. Two large landscapes of Claude did not touch me. The "Gloaming" is the best. Brueghel's pictures much pleased me. The Elements & animals. --Lucretia Borgia--no wicked look about her. good looking dame--rather fleshy.--To the Borghese gallery for third time.--The supurb table there--the tunnel cut thro' to street, & fountain. Have remarked before on pictures here.--To the studios. The English sculptor, Gibson. His colored Venus. Talk with him. The 7 branched candlestick &c. Art perfect among Greeks. Limit to human power,--perfection.--To Bartholomew's. His Eve. Bust of young Augustus--(Edition). To Page's. Thin socks. Titian--kneading of flesh--Middle tint. Long lecture.--Home, dinner, bed.

    March 11th Wednesday. Started for Appian Way. Narrow,--not like Milton's Way--not suitable to dignity &c. Old pavement. Tomb with olive trees on it. sown in corruption, raised in olives. Same day, Grotto of Egeria. Nothing very beautiful or at all striking about it. No foliage, but one clump.--To St. Pauls, outside walls. Magnificent. Malaria among the gilding. Building against Nature. Pet of Pio's. The Catacombs--laberyth of them. Home at 3, changed room, had fire, and prepared for being laid up. No dinner.

    Thursday March 12th. Crept out at 12 M. to Coliseum. Repeopling it, &c. The arch. Dined on fig & bread.

    Friday March 13th. Fine day. To grounds of Villa Borghese. Great beauty of them. Fine rich odours of bushes & trees. The laurel &c. The closed villa, statues seen thro' railing. Silence & enchantment. "Glitter wide the halls, high the laurel grows &c.--Taken from scenery of Italian Villa.--Called on Page. Long lecture. Sweden- burgh. Spiritualist. Thin Socks. Dined on a plate at Lepri's.

    Saturday March 14th. Walked about to Trinita di Monte. Second visit to Albani Villa. Father Murphy. Mrs. S. Caryatide. The long lines of foliage--architecture of villa, richness of landscape. Fine site.--To B. of Diocletian Church. Fall of Simon Magus. Meridian line,--Moslems in St. Sophia: transverse.

    Sunday March 15th. Attacked by singular pain across chest & in back. In my room till 5 1/2 P. M. Dined at table d'hote. This day saw nothing, learned nothing, enjoyed nothing, but suffered something.

    Monday March 16th Vatican day.--Afterwards to Pincian. Could not engage seat in coupe of diligence. Have to go to Florence by Civita Vechia. haze Sixtine Chapel--blue clouds, limbs.

    Tuesday March 17th. To Frascati by R.R. Crossing Campagna by R.R.--Villa Aldrobrandini. Charming day & grounds. Avenues of trees. Laurel, cypruss, pine, olive. Rich masses of foliage. Stone seats at angles. View of Tusculum (Cicero) from top of hill, at end of long avenue of olives. The cave--skull. The fountain, seen through hall of villa. Maps. Mellow aspect of all. Willows advanced as far as middle of May with us. Felt the bracing, renewing air of these hills very sensibly. Air of Rome hypochondriac.--Fine neglect of grounds of villa. Omnibus riding through Rome to & from R.R.

    Wednesday March 18. Breakfasted on 16 pennies at Caffe Nuovo. To Torlonia Villa--small chambers--theaters--arbored dessert room --colonade & sea--rich decorations.--Grounds. The cave--the tournament--the artificial ruins--the circus &c &c. Grounds small. Fine views.--Crawfords studio--Colossal America & various statues. Extent of studio. Indian, Backwoodsman &c &c.

    Thursday March 19th'. Engaging vetturo for C. Vechia. Old stable &c. --To Villa Doria Pamfili. Great extent.--rich green--Paridise within Paridise. Yellow villa.--long vista of green & green water. The cedars & pines. Avenues of olives. View of St. Peters. The terrace gardens -- the form of the parterres -- flourishes of chromo- plates. Finer than English Park--richer foliage & sweeter atmosphere. Brilliant coloring & soft.--The Ghetto. The market (butcher) in old temple alley leading through between columns. Filth & crowd. Old clothes--babies in basket & babies sewed up. Fountain of 7 branch candlestick. Way in which old temples are used--churches-- shops--alleis--blacksmiths--markets &c &c &c. View from piazza of San Pietro in Montorio. Best in Rome. In the evening at Caffe Nuovo--old palace. Deep recess of windows. Crowd of orderly well-dressed people. Magical guitarr man. Hush & applause.

    Friday March 20th. At 6.A.M started for Tivoli. Chilly grey ride across Campagna. Lake Tartarus. Travetine.--Villa of Hadrian-- Solemn scene & solemn guide--Extent of ruin,--fine site. Guide philosophising.--Tivoli on heigth. Temple of the Nymph over- hanging--paths--gallery in rock--Claude--Not to Paradise, but Tivoli.--shading--middle tint--Villa of Mecanas.--Chill ride home in the evening.--

    Saturday March 21st. Rainy. Run about getting my vises. Sam left his card. Saw him. Had letter from home to 20th Feb. All well. Met to part.--At 4 P.M. started in veturino for Civitta Veccia in company with M' & Miss R. of New Jersey and an Italian lady. Desolate ride across desolate country. (Last view of St. Peters. Went out by gate near it.) At midnight stopped for three hours at lonely inn. Heard Meditterrean near. Rode on.

    Sunday March 22d Arrived at C. Vecchia at 6 A.M. Crowds in streets. Sheepskin leggins &c. At 3 P. M. went aboard French steamer "Aventime", small craft. Great crowd. Turkish flag hoisted in honor of Turk envoy to Sardinia. Talked with him. His views of Mahomattism &c. Upper classes of Turkey indulge philosophical opinions upon religion &c. Repeated story of Abbots fire at Salonica. Same as I heard from Abbot himself.--Slept on settee (no berth).

    Monday March 23d At Leghorn by daylight. Pleasant morning, though damp. Passports. Nothing special about Leghorn. At 10 1/2 took 2d class car for Pisa. Walked at once to the Duomo &c--One end of it looks like coral grottoes in sea,--pearl diver. pillars in tiers. --St Peter's uplifted arm handle of bronze door.--Baptistery like dome set on ground. Wonderful pulpit of marble.--Campanile like pine poised just ere snapping. You wait to hear crash. Like Wordsworth's moore cloud, it will move all together if it move at all, for Pillars all lean with it. About 150 of 'em. There are houses in wake of fall.--Campo Santa. Beauty of bowered walks of stone. Frescoes. Wags who painted them. Tartarus--tooth-pulling--serpent looking in eye. Impudent--mouth. Esop might have designed it. The three kings.--The four monuments stand in commons--grass. grow out of ground. Come upon them as upon bouquet of architecture. [Interior of duomo magnificent. St. Agnes. &c. [Sea-chapel on river side. Collonaded Street. Silence of the Common. & River-side. At 5 1/2 P.M took cars for Florence. Level plain richly cultivated. Mountains. At 8 P.M arrived at Florence. Hotel du Nord. Caffe Doney near it. To bed early, no sleep for 2 nights past.

    Tuesday March 24th. Cold & raining all day. To Pitti Palace "It's as bad as too much pain: it gets to be pain at last" Heard this broken latter part of sentence from wearied lady coming from Uffizi Palace. --She was talking no doubt about excess of pleasure in these galleries.--Florence is a lovely city even on a cold rainy day. Ufezzi Palace. The Perseus of Cellini. Wandered about after leaving gallery Pitti. To the Duomo & Campanile. Came upon them unexpectedly. Amazed at their magnificence. Could not enter. Bought fine mosaics for one Napoleon.--Breakfasted to day at Caffe Doney.

    Wednesday March 25th. Festa, galleries closed. To Pitti gardens, rather Boboli. Noble views of Florence & country. Strolled about generally to churches, piazzas, &c. At Santa Croce saw tombs of Dante, M. Angelo, Alfieri, and Machiavelli. Preacher near M.'s tomb. M. said naught. Crucifix held out towards him. Campo Santa here.--At Annunziata saw fine frescoes of A. del Sarto. Gamblers struck by lightning. -- Animated appearance of streets. Walked over to Romana Gate, outside to Bellesgardo. Striking view from this hill of city & Vale d'Arno. Roundabout walk to get to it. Abruptly came upon it, by a narrow lane between high walls of gardens. The tower on the Vecchio palace the grand feature.--Came on violent rain; & walked home in it.

    Thursday March 26th. Sunned myself after breakfast in Grand Ducal square. To the Uffizi gallery. Idle to enumerate. Grand view of tower of Vechio palace from head of gallery. View of covered way that crosses the Vechio bridge.--Not pleased with the Venus de Medici, but very much astonished at the Wrestlers & charmed with Titian's Venus. The Portraits of painters interesting. To the Accademia di B. Arti.--Giotto's paintings. Rich effect of gilding & raised parts. Here are predecessors of the Peruginos & Raphaels. Saw a large painting, not referred to in my hand book, which contained many faces, attitudes, expressions & groupings I had noted at Rome in Raphael. Undoubtedly Raphael took from this, or some yet older painting. But still more, the whole spirit was the same.--Could not get access to all parts of the Accademia.--But saw the statues,--such as they are. Returning, passed Ricardi palace--Immense arched & lowering pile, with massive and impending cornice.--Raining pretty much all day, at times violently.--At dinner table accosted by singular young man who speaks 6 or 8 languages. He presented me with a flower, and talked like one to whom the world was delightful. May it prove so.

    Friday March 27th. At Caffe after breakfast sat musing upon caffes in general, & the young men frequenting them. Something good might be written on the "Caffe Doney", including that "Henry" & the flower-girls.--To the Museum of Natural History. Immense collection. Lapis lazuli--chrystal vessels, dragons, perfumers &c &c. Wax plants, seeds & germinations. Anatomacal preparations. Terrible cases & wilderness of rooms of them.--The Sicilian's work. N I. Interior of case, broken arches, skeleton thrown under arch--head of statue--dead expression--crown & scepter among bones-- medallion--Death & scythe--pointing--tossed skeletons & tools. horrible humiliation. Cleft shows more temples & pyramid. N 2. Vault--heaps--all colors from deep green to buff--all ruins-- detached bones--Mothers children old men, intricacy of heaps. Man with cloth over face bringing down another body whose buff contrasts with the putrid green. N 3. In a cavernous ruin. Superb mausoleum like Pope's, lid removed shows skeleton & putridity. Roman sarcophagus--joyous triumphal procession--putrid corpse thrown over it.--grating--rats, vampires--insects. slime & ooze of corruption.--Moralist, this Sicilian. (H.).--The final collection.-- Revisited Pitti Gallery. The 3 Fates of M. Angelo. Admirable expression. The way the one Fate looks at other--Shall I?--The expectancy of the 3d (Transition from splendid humanity of gallery to the Sicilian). The inlaid tables & pictures. S. Rosa's portraits (one auto- graph) Battle Peice. To Powers' studio. His America. Il Penseroso, Fisher Boy.--Saw him. Apron, plain man. Fine specimen of an American.--To the Cascine.--Dined at the Luna with the young Polyglot. Walk along river & home.

    Saturday 28th March. Before breakfast ascended Duomo. Entered Ball. Fine morning & noble view. Parapet round the building. Fresco of dome. Immense foot five feet long by measurement.--Magnitude of dome.--After breakfast at caffe Doney, did some business & then to Ufizzi gallery for last look. Afterwards to Fiesole. Boccaccio's villa --Medicis villa. Franscican convent. View from windows. Old maps,--behind the age.------Etruscan wall.--To the Cascine & home. After dinner packed carpet bag & wrote this.

    Sunday 29th April. Porter forgot to wake us at 3.AM. Diligence started without us. Run round the Duomo to the Gate. All day among hills. Crossed the Appenines. Grand scenery. Long reaches of streams through solitary vallies. No woods. No heartiness of scenery as in New England. Drawn by oxen part of the way. 4000 feet above sea. Deep banks of snow in places. Lonely houses. Villages. Grave & decorous people: Breakfast in the hut. Nothing of talk in the coupe: But much smoking:

    Monday March 30th. Stopping at the "Three Moors." Fine day. Saw the leaning tower--black & grimy--brick. Its companion is of prodigious heigth. To the Gallery. The Madonna of the Rosary. A Circe. St. Cecilia. David Victorious. &c.--To the Campo Santa-- Vast extent of sepulchral arcades. Splendor of some of the monuments. Arcade winding up the hill to church--three miles. Saw the University. The Court all coats of arms of students. Statue of the learned lady. Walked under the arcades in the evening. First thing at Bologna, tried Bologna sausage, on the principle that at Rome you first go to St. Peters.

    Tuesday March 31st. After breakfasting with the young C. Traveller at caffe, started alone in diligence for Padua. -- Polite elderly gentleman in diligence. A dead level country in strong contrast to last Sunday's travel. Ponds for hemp. Vineyards. Stone farm-houses & stone barns without sides.--At one P.M. came to Ferrara, where diligence stopped till 3. Went to see cathedral. Interesting old pile. Portico sustained by pillars resting on old hunchbacks.--The Last Judgement sculptured overhead. The Father in the angle of pediment. Below to right & left the elect & reprobate. The four figures stepping out of their stone graves, as out of bed. The legs thrown out in various attitudes. Capital. Grotesque figures.--Fine bell-tower, but incomplete.--The old palace of the ancient lords of Ferrara is surrounded by broad moat. Drawbridge &c. Massy brick arches over moat.--Ferrara is on a dead plane, grass grows all about, seems a human common.--Tasso's prison. Mere cider-cellar. Grated win- dow, but not strong. Byron's name &c. Other scribblers.--From Ferrara to Padua went by smaller post. Austrain. Old fashioned vehicle. Mysterious window & face. Secret recesses. Hide. Old fashioned feeling. Crossed the Po, quite a broad stream & very turbid & rapid. Yellow as Missippi. Alluvial look. Old ferry boat. Austrain frontier. At dusk came to Rovigo, a considerable town. Saw two more leaning towers there; dismantled & ruinous. At midnight came to Padua, & to the hotel "Star of the East."

    Wednesday April 1st. Rainy day. To the famous caffe of Pedrocci. Worthy of its fame, being of great size and well furnished. Got a grave dark guide & started with great-coat & umbrella to see the sights.--To the town hall. Wonderful roof (India) To the private palace to see the "Satan & his host. " Fine attitude of Satan. Intricate as heap of vermecilla. Church of St. Anthony & Shrine. Supurb. Crutches & pictures. Bronze bas-reliefs. Goliath & David, &c. Promenade--The Brenta flowing round it. Pleasant aspect of Brenta winding through town. To Giotto's chapel.--The Virtues & Vices. Capital. The Scriptural pictures.--The Arena.--Fine church in vicinity. Old palaces & old arcades & old streets. At 2. P.M took cars for Venice. Raining hard. Comfortable cars.--Level country. Approaching Venice like approaching Boston from the West.--Into gondola to Hotel Luna. Dined at table 'dhote, & sallied out to piazza of St. Marco, & about there till 8 P.M.

    April 2d, Thursday. Breakfast at Florian's, on roll. Ducal Palace Went into St. Mark's. Oily looking interior, reeking look, disappointed. Repairing dome--scaffold. To Rialto. Up Bell Tower. In gondola to Grand Canal & round by Guidecca. Dinner. Walk in St. Mark's. To bed.--No place like the St. M.s Square for enjoyment. Public ball room--no hours. Lights. Ladies taking refreshments outside (In morning they breakfast on sunny side). Musicians. singers. soldiers &c &c &c. Perfect decorum. Fine architecture.--In the evening met in Ducal Palace (the court) affable young man (Antonio) engaged him to meet me for guide tomorrow.

    April 3d Friday. To Glass bead manufactury. Drawing the rods like twine-making. cutting, rounding, polishing, coloring a secret. To Gold chain manufactury. Old Venetian gold. Various qualities. To Church St. Guovani Paoli. Monuments. The chapel with the beautiful bas-relief. Christ expounding to the doctors. To the Aresenl. Great basins. Turks standard. Lanterns. On the canals. Othello's house & statue. Shylocks. L. Byron's. Foscari Palace. Fine view of G. Canal.--After dinner in Piazza.

    April 4th, Saturday Breakfast at Mindel's. Took gondola at Piazzetta for Murano. Village in water. passed cemetery,--on isle.--Gliding m to water village. Old church. Back & to Jesuit church. Marble drapery of pulpit. Astonishing what can be done with marble. Into Grand Canal. House of Gold. Duke of Bordeaux's. Dutchess de Berri's &c &c. Hotel de Ville--old palace--superb court. & stair case. Frescos of courtiers looking down & over balustrade beyond stair case.--To the bankers & Sardinian Consul. To Gallery, Titian's Assumption. The great black heads & brown arms. St. Mark coming to rescue. Venetian noble. Old pictures of Venice.--Grand saloons. --Titians Virgin in the Temple. After dinner, took gondola till dark on Canals. Old Palace with grinning monsters &c. Bought coat. To bed at 9 1/2.

    April 5th, Sunday Breakfast on St. Marks. Austrain flags flying from three masts. Glorious aspect of the basilica in the sunshine. The charm of the square. The snug little breakfast there. Ladies. Flower girls--musicians. pedlers of Adriatic shells. Cigar stores &c &c.-- Sat in a chair by the arcade at Mindel's some time in the sun looking at the flags, the sun, & the church. (The shadow of the bell-tower. The Pigeons. People coming to feed them.--Took gondola. To the gar- den laid out by Napoleon. At end of Venice. (Like Battery at N. York) Fine view of lagoon & isles on two sides of Venice. To the Lido, from whence fine view of Venice, particularly the Ducal palace &c. Walked across the sand to the Adriatic shore. Calm waters. Long wide beach.--Through the grassy lagoon to Armenian Convent. Admirable retirement from the world, asleep in the calm Lagoon, the Lido a breakwater against the tumultuous ocean of life.--Garden, convent, quadrangles, cloisters,--View from library window-- isles--[The city in the distance. Portraits of noble bearded old Armenian priests. Old printing presses. Turkish medal. M.S. Bible. Chapel. 8 worshippers, & 8 priests. Supurb vestments, blended with supurb light streaming in from shining lagoon through windows draped with rosy silks. chaunting, swinging silver censers--puff of incense at each worshipper. Great gorgeousness of effect. --The approach, gliding in--between grass.--

    [Smell of stale incense peculiar to these old Churches. Only found out this--the cause of it--to day.--Back to the city. Mirage-like effect of fine day--floating in air of ships in the Malamocco Passage, & the islands. To the church of Santa Maria Salute. Octagonal. To the church of S. Giorgio Maggiore. Series of carvings in wood. Landed at steps of Ducal palace under Bridge of Sighs. Prison black as by fire. Also palace in parts. Was a fire here. Walked in piazza of St. Mark. Crowds of people promenading. Pigeons. Walked to Rialto. Looked up and down G. Canal. Wandered further on. Numbers of beautiful women. The rich brown complexions of Titian's women drawn from nature, after all. (Titian was a Venetian) The clear, rich, golden brown. The clear cut features, like a cameo.--The vision from the window at end of long, narrow passage.--Walked by moonlight & gaslight in piazza of St. Mark. Numbers of singers, & musicians.-- The tumblers & comic actors in the open space near Rialto. The expression of the women Tumblers. The Ducal palace's colonade like hedge of architecture.--On these still summer days the fair Venetians float about in full bloom like pond lillies.--G. Canal not straight & stiff, but irregular with projections for advantageous fronts. Winds like a Susquehanha. View from balcony of Foscari palace. Best site. Huge timbers. Occupied as barrack. Austrain cots & burnishing armor. Cooking & scrubbing in great hall.--On the canals of Venice all vehicles are represented. Omnibus, private coach, light gig, or sulky, pedler's cart, hearse.--[You, at first, think it a freshet, it will subside, not permanent,--only a temporary condition of things.--St: Mark's at sunset, gilt mosaics, pinacles, looks like holyday affair. As if the Grand Turk had pitched his pavilion here for a summers day. 800 years! Inside the precious marbles, from extreme age, look like a mosaic of rare old soaps.----have an unctuous look. Fairly steamed with old devotions as refectories with old dinners.-- In Venice nothing to see for the Venetian.--Rather be in Venice on rainy day, than in other capital on fine one.-- --My Guide. How I met him, & where. Lost his money in 1848 Revolution & by travelling.--To day in one city, tomorrow in next. Fine thing to travel. When rich, plenty compliment. How you do, Antonio--hope you very well, Antonio--Now Antonio no money, Antonio no compliment. Get out of de way Antonio. Go to the devel, Antonio. Antonio you go shake yourself. You know dat Sir, 'dat to de rich man, de poor man habe always de bad smell? You know dat Sir? Yes, Antonio, I am not unaware of that. Charitably disposed. Old blind man, give something & God will bless you [Will give, but doubt the blessing]. [Antonio good character for Con. Man] Did not want to die. Heaven. You believe dat? I go dere, see how I like it first. --His rich anecdote. Byron swimming over every morning to wake a lady in palace opposite. The Prussian countess, cavalier sends. Very wicked lady but very happy.--Floating about philosophizing with Antonio the Merry. Ah, it was Pausillippo. --Whether saw the brother of E. of Austria or not.--Leaning over parapet. Boys. silver lace. Anxious to settle it; & in my favor, for I consider that some of the feirce democracy would not look with disrespect upon the man who had &c &c &c

    April 6th. Left Venice at 5 1/2 AM for Milan. Through Padua & Vicenza to Verona, where bride & groom entered the cars. Between Verona & Brescia had noble views of Lago di Garda, with Mount Baldus in distance. Villages upon its shore & on an island. Long vista of the lake between great overlapping mountains whose snows insensibly melted into the purples. Passed on the north continually by the first tiers of the Alps. R. R. over dead level of Lombardy plain. Rich cultivation. Mulberry trees, vines. Farm houses so unlike ours. No signs of hard work as with us. This region the scene of Napoleon's campaigns. At Coccaglio took diligence for Treviglio (18 m. from Milan) . Rode from 1 PM till 6. In coupe. Arrived at Milan at 7 1/2 P. M. Omnibus to Hotel de le Ville. Row at station between cabman & Austrain gen d'arm. Walked out to see the cathedral by night. Tour of shops &c A Canal.

    April 7th Tuesday. The the Gallery. Very extensive, and some noble paintings. St. Catherine's Martyrdom. St. Mark at Alexandria is admirable for accuracy of architecture costume & expressions. To the Camp d'Armo. Arch. To the picture of Leonardo da Vincis. In suburb of Milan. Curious old brick church. Very old. Some trouble finding the refectory. At last directed to an archway where stood trumpeters. Not for Leonardo, though. Led through passages occupied by military (cavalry) to large court (like that of inn) . Refectory a long, high, blank room, two ends painted. Great stage for copyists. Catching last hues of sunset. Whole picture faded & half gone. (Photograph copy of it I saw)--Significance of the Last Supper. The joys of the banquet soon depart. One shall betray me, one of you--man so false--the glow of sociality is so evanescent, selfishness so lasting. Leonardo & his oil, case of a great man (Wordsworth) & his theory. To the cathedral. Glorious. More satisfactory to me than St. Peters. A wonderful grandure. Effect of burning window at end of aisle. Ascended,--From below people in the turrets of open tracery look like flies caught in cobweb.--The groups of angels on points of pinacles & everywhere. Not the conception but execution. View from summit. Might write book of travel upon top of Milan Cathedral. Dined at 5 P.M. at table d hote of the Hotel d la Ville. Curious old gentleman there. Prided himself upon filling his glass. Young man. Talk. About cathedral.

    April 8th Wednesday. Up at 5. AM. At 6 1/2 started for Lake Como. Ride of hour & half in cars over dead rich plain. Took steamer at Como. Like going to Lake George.--Wonderful populousness of shores of lake. Abrupt rise of mountains. roads cut through rocks, windrows, ledges. View at Belleaggio of the three arms of the lake. Mountains rolled together in watery blue. Snow upon summits. Picturesque boats boarding at every village. Villages upon all kinds of sites. Some midway upon steep slopes as if they had slipped there in a land-slide. Churches on isolated peaks. Groups of hamlets--pin-folds. Villages by scores, a hundred. Terraced vegetation. Lone houses way up, here & there. Cascades. (under house) No trees. Back to Milan at 7 P.M.

    Thursday April 9th. Up at 5 . Scribbled here, and down to breakfast at 6 1/2. at hotel. Young Parisian and lady there. At 9. o'clock started in diligence for Novara. Smart postilions, bugles under arm, glazed hat, metal band, jack boots. Over dead flat Lombardy plain, Alps in sight to the north. Passed many populous villages & towns. High cultivation of a most fertile soil. Crossed noble granite bridge of the Ticino. Came to Novara at 1 1/2. Lunched there. Remained, waiting for train 4 hours. Walked in boulevard on old walls--ancient brick fortress with deep, broad moat--Old duomo. Thorwalsden's angels. Old court. Baptistery. Wax work. Nails & hammer, hair &c. At 5 1/2 took train for Turin. Fell in with Greek from Zephalonia ("English subject") Arrived at Turin g.P.M. Adventure with omnibus, porters, and Hotel d la Europe. --At Novara, saw church with wooden architecture before it. Within, altar made into stage, where were pasteboard figures of scriptural characters. Exactly as in theatre. And lighted.

    Friday April 10th. Very rainy. Breakfasted at caffe (gilded octagonal saloon) in Via di Po. Walked under the great arcades. Took view across to Colina. Visited Gallery. Admirable painting of"A Confessional". Some heads of Titian. 4 fine allegorical paintings--Earth Air, Fire, Water. Rubens' Magdalen--excellently true to nature, but very ugly. Groups of children by Van Dyke--six in a row, heads,-- charming. Teniers tavern scenes. The remarkable Teniers effect is produced by first dwarfing, then deforming humanity. Breughel-- always pleasing. --Piazza Castello, where hotel is, is the centre of Turin. Interesting old pile, with various fronts, and grotesque assemblage of various architectures. Turin is more regular than Philadelphia. Houses all one cut, one color, one heigth. City seems all built by one contractor & paid for by one capitalist.--Singular effect of standing in arch of castle, & looking down vista of Via di Grossa to Mount Rosa & her snows. Caught it unobscured by clouds early on the morning I left Turin.--Boulevards around the town. Many caffes & fine ones --Laboring people & poor women taking their frugal breakfast in fine caffes. Their decorum, so different from corresponding class at home.--In the evening it cleared off. Went down to the Po again. Stood on steps of church there. To bed early.

    Saturday April 11th. Bright weather. Up early to see Mount Rosa from the street. Saw it. Breakfasted on chocolate (Turin famous for it) on bank of Po. At 10 A.M. took cars for Genoa, over 100 miles. Pleasant for some time & passed through pleasant country. Very populous & highly cultivated. Approaching Appennines, noble scenery. Road built with great skill & cost. Numerous tunnels through hills at base of Appennines, till at last comes the grand Tunnel--2 miles long.--Arrived at Genoa in rain at 3 P.M. Carpet bag fell from shoulder of clumsy porter. Afraid to look at Kate's affairs.-- --Stopped at hotel Feder on water side. Walked through Strada Nuovo &c. Palaces inferior to those of Rome, Florence, & Venice. One peculiarity is the paintings of architecture instead of the reality. All kinds of elaborate architecture represented in fresco.--Machiavelli's saying that the appearances of a virtue may be advantageous, when the reality would be otherwise.--Streets like those of Edinburgh; only still more steep & crooked. Ascended one for view.--Dined at table 'dhote. Fine room. The hotel occupies old palace. In evening walked on pavilion nigh port. Lofty hotels. Tower of the Cross of Malta. View of hills in distance.

    Sunday April 12th. Breakfasted at Caffe. Chocolate. To the Public promenade on ramparts. Look off. Troops. Unhandsome set of men. To the Cathedral. White & black marble in alternate courses. The steps. The Gridiron bas-releif. Fine interior. Tower.--The Ducal Palace. All the world out. Numbers of women. The Genoese head dress. Undines and Maids of the Mist. Simple & graceful. Receipt for making a plain woman look lovely. Took omnibus (2 SOUS) to end of harbor. Light house (300 feet high) Ascended. Superb view. Sea coast to south. Promontory. All Genoa & her forts before you. The heigth & distances of these forts, their outlying loneliness. The bleakness, the savageness of glens between, seem to make Genoa rather the capital and fortified camp of Satan: fortified against the Archangels. Clouds rolling round ramparts aerial. &c. Took the East side of harbor, and began circuit of the 3d line of defences. Ramparts over- hang the open sea, arches thrown over ravines. Fine views of sections of town. Up & up. Galley-slave prison. Gratings commanding view of sea--infinite liberty. Followed round & round. Nonplussed. Got to Public Promenade. Struck up steep lane to little church (fine view of sea from porch) Thence higher, and came to ramparts. Magnificent views of deep valley other side--& of Genoa & sea. Up & up. Finer & finer, till I got to the apex fort. Saw the two encircling vallies, and the ridge in which their heads unite to form the site of the highest forts. Great populousness of these vallies. Loneliness of some of the higher forts. Grounds enclosed by 3d circuit. Deep, woodless glens. Solitary powder magazines. Lonesome as glen in Scotch highlands. --With great fatigue descended by irregular path, coming out by Doria palace. Dined at table d hote. Greek next me. Gigglers opposite. --Walked over the port. Stopped in with Greek at garden-caffee. Beautiful spot with fountains arcades &c &c &c. In bed at 8 1/2. --Threatening rain all day, but none.

    Monday April 14th Chocolate at caffe. Old Wall of the Custom House. Visited the palaces. Different style from those of Rome &c. Large halls, preceding courts. But see Guide Book. Was shown thro' some palaces in great haste. Rosso palace in particular. -- Very windy. To hotel early, effects of yesterday's work. Met Purser of Constitution at dinner. In bed by eight.

    Tuesday Ap 15th Took cars at six A.M for Arona on Lake Maggiore. Met Liutent Fauntleroy at station. Pleasant ride across new country. At 2 P.M sailed from Arona in (Passed thro' Allessandia & Novara) small steamer. Cold passage. Scenery fine. White-wash brush. Confusion of seasons. Pourings of cascades, numbers of hamlets. The terraced isle. Came to Magadino at 7 P.M. Diligence to Bellinzona. Entered defile at dusk, and kept in it. Shadowy & vague approach among the roots of Alps. At Bellinzona out jumped Dr Lockwood just from Simplon.

    April 16 At 2.AM started in diligence for crossing the San Gothard. Bow window. Silence, mystery. Steady roll of wheel. Dawn, zig-zags, Gorge, precipice, Snow. At Airolo breakfasted. Mr Abbot accosted me. Storming violently. Hand sleds. Parties waiting at Airolo for three days. Started. Long train. Zig-zag. Houses of refuge. Discussion of the gods &c. Verge & brink of paths. Summit. Hospice. Old stone warehouse. Scene there. Men in comforters, frozen horses. sleding goods.--Started again. Stoppage by goods coming the other way. Turning out. Floundering of horses. Descent. Like coming from the clouds. Noses of crags thrusting out --10000 feet. Dinner at Andermatt. Wet through. Diligence. Devil's Bridge. Scenery through gorge. Green & white of grass & snow. Lime torrent. Altorf. Fluellen at 7 P.M.--

    April 17 Before breakfast next morning went out for view of Lake Lucern--Bay of Uri. Chapel. (seats Methodists) At 9. A.M. started for Lucern in steamer. Entrance of Bay of Uri. Tell's Chapel. At 11 came to Lucern.-- Thorswalden's lion--living rock. Ramble with Abbot & fine views. Old Bridges.

    Friday April 18. At 8 AM started in diligence for Berne. Coupe, only Abbot & me. Charming day & charming country. Swiss cottages. Thrift neatness &c. Dinner at inn. At 7 arrived at Berne, putting up at "The Crown." Went to terrace of cathedral for view of Bernese Alps. There they were--seen over the green.

    Saturday April 19th. Walk on terrace. Cathedral. Spent whole day almost with Mr Fay & Abbot & daughter. Ride. Noble views of Alps. Rail Road building.

    Sunday April 20th. At 10. AM. started in diligence (interior) for Basle. Fine day. At Solieure dined. Encountered a Mr Smyth merchant of N.Y. Supurb views of the Bernese Alps & Jura ranges all morning. Beyond Solure drew near Jura,--palisades--About high as Saddle Back. 4000 feet. Old castles. Entered by a remarkable defile. View of white Alps through defile. Ride across.--Took R. R at L and at 8 P.M put up at "The Wild Man" in Basle. Walked out, crossed the Rhine by bridge of boats. Deep, broad, rapid.

    Monday April 21. At 5 A. M. off by R. R. for Strasbourgh. go miles . To the Cathedral. Pointed--pinnacles--All sprouting together like bed of what you call it? asparagus Brown free stone. The Clock &c. Crowd waiting. Ascent. Not fine as Milan. Platform on top. The Spire, inscriptions (1500) At 2 P.M. crossed with Mr Smyth to Kiel. Passports. French & German. Baden. Took cars for Heidleburgh. Californians. Lovely afternoon. Level country bounded by hills. Great fertility. Getting the crops in. At 8 PM arrived at Heidleburgh. Hotel Adler.

    Tuesday April 22. Up at 5 and mounted to Castle. Blossoms, grass all things fresh round the charming old ruin. The chimney. vault. View of Necker. The University.--The cloven ruin. trees sprouting. defile in ruins.--Flower bed in banquet hall. Knights in green niches.--Students. Daguerotypes. At 2 P.M. took cars for Frankfort on Maine. At station encountered Dr Abbot again--bound to Frankfort. Same level fertile country as all way from Basle. At 4 PM came to Frankfort, stopping at Hotel . After dinner Smythe invited us to ride about town.--Goethe's statue. Faust's. Cathedral. Luther's preaching place. River side. Park. Jews quarter. Rothschilds home. &c &c &c.

    Wednesday Apl 23. --After breakfast went in to see Abbot--found him smoking in bed & better. Went to Rothschilds.--Eminent hard- ware merchant. Aspect of cash-room. kegs, barrels, rolls, presses, weights & scales, coopers, carmen & porters. Drove about the town. Faust's statue. The "Ariadne" of H . Rose light. Beauty and Deformity contrasted. At half past eleven A.M. started in cars for Wiesbaden, but by mistake arrived at Mayence--at 2 P.M. Took boat for Cologne. Mayence on low land, but covering large space, fine cathedral & buildings. Passed through Hock-land. Plenty of vineyards (sticks) down Rhine. Got to Cologne at 10 P.M. Rainy & cold all day. My partial companion. (from Boston?) Stopped at Hotel de Cologne.

    Thursday April 24th At 5 o'clock got up, breakfasted & went to R. R. station, across river for Amsterdam. Through Duselldorff & Utrecht. Rainy, cold, hail at times & sleet. Rich country, level.-- Entering Holland, began to look like a great heath--passed much waste, brown, muddy looking land -- immense pastures, light green. Adventure after hotel in Amsterdam, where we arrived at 3 1/2 P.M. Put up at last at the "Old Bible", upon which something good might be written in the ironical way.

    April 24th (Mistake of a day before). Very cold & snowy yesterday afternoon. At ordinary a number of sea captains. This morning got a queer little old Dutchman for guide & went to Picture Gallery. Wonderful picture of Paul Potter--The Bear.--Keel hauling of a Dutch Surgeon. -- The Syndics of Rembrandt & The Night Watch (shadows)--Portrait of a painter & his wife--admirable (Old Pedlers) The abandonment of good humored content.--Dutch convivial scenes. Teniers & Breughel.--Streets of Amsterdam like long lines of old fashioned frontispieces in old folios & old quartoes. Canals & drawbridges. Greasy looking old fellows--Teniers.--To the "Garden" & "Plantation." The pink-mouthed dog. The "Sloth". --View of city from cupola of palace. Red tiles of houses. The Port. The drop of gin.--Shape of Amsterdam like ampitheater, water all round it.--Broeck, did not see. place of cheese, butter, & tidiness.-- The old galliot. Neat, & chest of drawers.--At 4 1/2 took train for Rotterdam. Smoking cars. One all to myself. Passed through Harlem -- Neat, like "Colonie" in Albany. Leyden, big cathedral. The Hague. Arrived at Rotterdam at 7 1/2. Got guide & went to Dance Houses. Into three of them. Striking & pathetic sight. The promenading girls--music--their expression & decorum.--Villiany of the guide. To bed by 9 1/2.

    April 25th. With guide went to cathedral of St. Lawrence. (Forgot to say that while in Amsterdam visited the church there. Carved pulpit, &c but nothing inside) Fine view of Rotterdam & environs. House of Erasmus. At 11 O'clock went on board steamer for London. Fair wind, but chilly. Passed several of the embankments. --The fat steward. At 7 o clock, strong, fair wind.

    April 26th Monday. Made the mouth of Thames early, & steamed up, passed many objects of interest. The mammoth ship "Great Eastern". At 7 AM were at St. Catherine Wharf. Cab, & to Tavistock Hotel. Dreary Sunday in London. Walked to Hyde Park & in Kensington Gardens. Got an idea of them.

    April 27th. To the Longman's &c

    April 28th. To Madam Tussaud's. No where else in particular.

    April 29th 30th--May 1st--Thursday, Friday & Saturday. -- Lay a sort of waterlogged in London.--Reverie at the "Cock". Chrystal Palace--digest of universe. Alhambra--House of Pansi-- Temple of . &c &c &c.--Comparison with the pyramid.-- Overdone. If smaller would look larger. The Great Eastern. Pyramid.--Vast toy. No substance. Such an appropriation of space as is made by a rail fence. Durable materials, but perishable structure. Cant exist 100 years hence.--Beautiful view from terraces of Chrystal Palace.--Thames Tunnel. Rode out in omnibus to Richmond. Several evenings at Hyde Park to see the equestrians. Fine & bold riding of the ladies. Poor devel looking over the rail.--Visited the Vernon & Turner galleries.--Sunset scenes of Turner. "Burial of Wilkie. " The Shipwreck. "The Fighting taken to her last birth."

    Sunday May 2d Left London by RR for Oxford. Clear day. Rich country. Passed through Berkshire. Level & fertile. Windsor castle in distance. Saw Reading, shire town of Berkshire. At 11 1/2 arrived at Oxford.--Most interesting spot I have seen in England. Made tour of all colleges. It was here I first confessed with gratitude my mother land, & hailed her with pride. Oxford to American as well worth visiting as Paris, tho' in a very different way.--Pulpit in corner of quadrangle. Deer. Garden girdled by river.--Meadows beyond. Oxen & sheep. Pastoral & collegiate life blended.--Christ Church Meadow. Avenue of trees.--Old reef washed by waves & showing detached parts--so Oxford. Ivy branch over portal of St. John intertwining with sculpture. Amity of art & nature. Accord. Grotesque figures. Catching rhuematism in Oxford cloisters different from catching it in Rome. Contagion in Pamfili Doria but wholesome beauty in Oxford. Learning lodged like a faun. Garden to every college. Lands for centuries never molested by labor. Sacred to beauty & tranquility. Fell's avenue. Has beheld unstirred all the violence of revolutions. &c.--Steep roof. Spanish chestnut. Dining halls.

    [Dormer window derived from gable, as spire from elevating & sharpening roof in snowy climates--final result of gradual process. --Stair case of Christ Church. Single pillar as in Paris chapel. Each college has dining room & chapel--on a par--large windows. Soul & body equally cared for.--Grass smooth as green baize of billiard table.--The picturesque never goes beyond this.--I know nothing more fitted by mild & beautiful rebuke to chastise the ranting of Yankees.--In such a retreat Old Burton sedately smiled at men.-- Improvement upon the monkish. As knights templars were mixture of monk & soldier, so these of monk & gentleman.

    [These colleges founded as men plant trees.--Belfry cant ring bells, &c. Music coming out of church as beads ooze out of earthen pitcher. --Stopped at the "Mitre" at Oxford.--High Street.

    Monday May 3d. Left Oxford at g A.M for Stratford on Avon. Changed for horse rail road. Stopped at the "Red Horse."--Shakspere's home--little old groggery abandoned.--cheerless, melancholly. Scrawl of names.--The church. Tomb stones before Altar, wife, daughter son-in-law.--New Place.--Walk to Hathaway cottage at Shottery. Level country. At 3 1/2 went on stage to Warwick. Cold & windy. Wonderfully beautiful country.--(Edge Hill).--Aspect of Castle nigh Avon. Walked about Warwick. Entrance very fine. Old gate &c. At 6 1/2 took R.R. for Birmingham. Arrived before dark. Mob of chimnies. Like Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Stopped at Queen's, by R.R. Drove round town. City Hall, fine building. Parthenon. To bed early.

    Tuesday May 4th, At 6 A.M. took RR for Liverpool. Like riding through burnt district--standing columns of pines, smoking or with shoots of flame from top.--The Chimnies. Arrived at Liverpool at 12. M.--Secured my berth on "City of Manchester" by paying balance. Got letters from Brown, Shipley & Co. Saw Hawthorne. Called on Mr Bright. Got presents. Trunk. Packed. The "Grecian "

    Wednesday May 5th. Fine day. At 10 A.M. got on board tender for steamer.--At 11 1/2--off for home.

    Journal 1860

    Journal Kept on board Ship "Meteor" Thomas Melville, Commander: From Boston to San Francisco. Herman Melville, Passenger.

    1860 Wednesday May 30th At 10 1/2 A.M. Tom, Fanny, George Griggs, and I went off to ship in the stream. Beautiful day, and pleasant sail down the harbor. Mr Peabody was on board, and lunched in the cabin. We bade Fanny good bye, and I assisted her into the tug-boat, preparatory to its going ahead to tow. At 1/4 past one P.M. pilot and tug-boat left us. Waved our handkerchiefs to Fanny, and the voyage began. Quite sea-sick at night.

    June 8th Friday During the past days cloudy, foggy rainy weather, with good breeze generally, and sailing Eastward, or little south of East. -- Gulf Stream disagreeable. But this there is a change. Clear & bright-- light breeze. Wind still from the South. Sent up sky sail yard. Crew busy in rigging &c

    June 11th Saturday Lat. 33.11 21. Long. 41. 37. Ther. 76.~ 74. The same bright, clear weather, growing warmer each day. Feel very sensibly improving in appetite &c, after seasick qualmishness. Have seen flying-fish, weed, Portuguese-men-of-war, and several sail lately. This afternoon had a collision with an English brig from Pernambuco bound for Liverpool. She blundered down across our bow, & was locked with us for a time; ripping & tearing her sails. We also were damaged in fore-yard & main. At the moment of collision the Steward of the brig being in jeopardy, leaped aboard of us, and, the vessels separating, remained aboard, till taken off by boat sent from the brig. He told me that the Captain was asleep in his berth when we came together, and added the Mate was half-blind &c. It was altogether an instance of the grossest heedlessness possible on the part of the brig--quite unaccountable.--When it was plain that she purposed crossing our bow, and that it was out of the question for her to do so, Tom at once put his helm up, and by so doing, we came off with less damage than could have been anticipated.

    June l2th Sunday Came out to day in light clothes.

    June 20th' Monday Lat. 18." 30 During the past week took the Trades--crossed the Northern Tropic--and last night saw the Southern Cross--the North Star sensibly sinking. Unvarying fine weather. Went out to flying-jib- boom end this morning. Glorious view of the ship. Spend the day dipping into the "Quarterlies",--find methodical reading out of the question. Not yet completely settled in my stomach. Head all right, tho'.

    Wednesday June 27th 4" Lat. N . For four days past been in the Doleful Doldrums,--the whole ship's crew given up to melancholly, and meditating darkly on the mysteries of Providence. But this morning, we have a wind, and feel better.

    Friday. June 29th Crossed the Line last evening. Saw bonetoes under the bow.

    Sunday July 8th 18. 30 S. L. 33 30 W. L. For the last five or six days--Calm--profound at times. Few or no fish seen. A comet made its appearance to the N. W the other night, & was still visable last night. At 4 1/2 P.M. yesterday the Calcutta sow commenced delivering her pigs, and about 6 1/2 P.M. concluded. Eleven were born, but two were dead: Thus, nine "souls" have been added to our company. Some ten days since the Carpenter made a set of chessmen; and Tom and I have played a game or two every evening. This morning sprang up a breeze----I hope it will continue

    Sunday July 21 S. Lat. 43--W. Lon. 49 Clear fine mild day. Speckled haglets & other birds about. Since writing last, have had two hard blows. Have a stove up in the cabin. Play chess every evening. Put up cabin-stove yesterday--started it this morning. Quite comfortable & domestic in the cabin now.

    Monday Aug 8 Since last date have had several gales, with snow, rain, hail, sleet, mist, fog, squalls, head-winds, refractory stove, smoky cabin, drunken ship &c &c &c.--In one gale, several men washed off the t'gallant forecastle, and the boy Charlie was sent flying into the pig- pen, which was stove, & the sow & little pigs came, with the deluge, aft. One (pigling) drowned, poor fellow.--A man hurt by a sea; assisted his chum in getting him into his berth, the crew being engaged taking in sail.--One of the gales lasted three days. In one we split the mainsail all to pieces, & the mizzen topsail, and a staysail.-- Days short--but not sweet. Winter.

    Tuesday Aug 7th At daylight made the land--Fair wind & pleasant. --Made Staten Land & N. W. Coast of Terra del Fuego. Two sail in sight. Entered the Straits of Le Maire, & through the short day had a fine view of the land on both sides--Horrible snowy mountains-- black, thunder-cloud woods--gorges--hell-landscape. Signaled ship "Black Prince" from New York.--There are three on the Sick List. The man hurt by the sea--one with a fever--the third, a boy with general debility.--

    Wednesday. Aug 8th Moderate breeze & fair, but thick. Could not see the land, tho' to be wished. Just before sunset, in a squall, the mist lifted & showed, within 12 or fifteen miles the horrid sight of Cape Horn--(the Cape proper)--a black, bare steep cliff, the face of it facing the South Pole; --within some miles were other awful islands & rocks--an infernal group. Tried to weather Cape Horn, as sloops weather Castle Garden Point N.Y.--but were headed off. Tacked ship to the southward.

    Thursday Aug 9th A gale of wind, with snow & hail & sleet.-- Ray, a Nantucketer, about 25 years old, a good honest fellow (to judge from his face & demeanor during the passage) fell this morning about day-break from the main topsail yard to the deck, & striking head-foremost upon one of the spars was instantly killed. His chum, Macey (Fisher) of Nantucket, I found alone in the upper cabin sitting over the body--a harrowing spectacle. "I have lost my best friend", said he; and then "His mother will go crazy--she did not want to let him go, she feared something might happen." It was in vain to wash the blood from the head--the body bled incessantly & up to the moment of burying; which was about one o'clock, and from the poop, in the interval between blinding squalls of sharp sleet. Tom read some lines from the prayer-book--the plank was sloped, and----God help his mother.--During the brief ceremony, made still the more trying from being under the lee of the reefed spanker where the wind eddies so--all stood covered with Sou-Westers or Russia caps & comforters, except Macey--who stood bareheaded. The Chief Mate imputes the fall to the excess of clothing worn,-- excess, not as regards comfort--but activity aloft.--The ship's motion very violent today

    Friday Aug 10th Calm: blue sky, sun out, dry deck. Calm lasting all day-- almost pleasant enough to atone for the gales, but not for Ray;s fate, which belongs to that order of human events, which staggers those whom the Primal Philosophy hath not confirmed.--But little sorrow to the crew--all goes on as usual--I, too, read & think, & walk & eat & talk, as if nothing had happened--as if I did not know that death is indeed the King of Terrors when thus happening; when thus heart-breaking to a fond mother--the King of Terrors, not to the dying or the dead, but to the mourner--the mother.--Not so easily will his fate be washed out of her heart, as his blood from the deck.